The International CBX Owners Association

I just finished replacing the fork seals on my '82 for the first time. First of all - many thanks to those of you who gave me the tech tips and hints.

Some things I learned (the hard way): 1. Slide the copper/steel bushing over the fork tube BEFORE driving it into the slider - that cost me a new bushing and shipping from Florida and about 8 cutoff wheels for my dremel tool. Good thing I've perfected that maneuver on old steering stem bearings; 2. Check the orientation of the brake caliper mounts i.e. make sure the fork sliders are on the correct sides BEFORE installing them and tightening the triple clamps and handlebar mounts; 3. Orient the air pressure crossover tube holes BEFORE tightening the fork tubes and handlebar mounts - that reach is short enough as it is; Orient the speedometer cable receiver on the correct side of the wheel tang BEFORE installing and torquing the axle clamps. I never really mind repeating parts of a job a few times though since it gets me well acquainted with the assembly and gives me a chance to really check for bugs. Now I now feel like I know the front end much better than I did, and I have more confidence in it.

The front end is remarkably simple and good looking, unlike the middle part of the motorcycle which is remarkably complex and even better looking. I can't say how much I enjoy this motorcycle.

I used 10 wt Bel Ray fork oil to 6" below the top of the fork tube per Forum suggestions, and the action seems great.

Again, thank you all for your support and a great forum to read.

Ben Zehnder

Good reminders with all the "BEFORE" tips, Ben.

welcome to the forum Ben. I did some work on my 81 front end not too long ago. Here is the link to my report.

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=7496

I hope you find it helpful.
/r
Brad

scoutcbx wrote:I just finished replacing the fork seals on my '82 for the first time. First of all - many thanks to those of you who gave me the tech tips and hints. Some things I learned (the hard way): 1. Slide the copper/steel bushing over the fork tube BEFORE driving it into the slider - that cost me a new bushing and shipping from Florida and about 8 cutoff wheels for my dremel tool. Good thing I've perfected that maneuver on old steering stem bearings; 2. Check the orientation of the brake caliper mounts i.e. make sure the fork sliders are on the correct sides BEFORE installing them and tightening the triple clamps and handlebar mounts; 3. Orient the air pressure crossover tube holes BEFORE tightening the fork tubes and handlebar mounts - that reach is short enough as it is; Orient the speedometer cable receiver on the correct side of the wheel tang BEFORE installing and torquing the axle clamps.
Ben Zehnder

So... I got cocky and thought "I've done a fork rebuild... I don't need no stinkin' manual to remember the rebuild sequence..." Read "Ben's Rules for Fork Assembly" above... I neglected rule number one, and now need a large pack of Dremel cutoff wheels. If you can take the following picture of the fork slider towards the beginning of the reassembly sequence, what's wrong? I'll send one of my needle bearings from my swingarm thread to the first person who responds correctly.
/r
Brad

That looks like the bushing is in place in the fork leg, ahead of the fork tube. If it's like my VStrom that needs to come back out. Or am I misunderstanding the question/challenge?

Yer right. Gives me a good excuse to pick up that blind bearing puller to see if that will help.
/r
Brad

It's an order of faith that I will do everything twice (because I did it wrong the first time), so much so that I am surprised when I don't. Hope your do-over isn't a cluster.

If you decide to get a blind bearing puller, this appears to be identical to the excellent MotionPro kit I have, at not quite half the price:

http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Bearing-Remo ... B0039L9HC4

N.

BTW, while inspecting, I found some pitting on the tubes, right in the fork seal path. Any way to repair/replate? Anyone ever have this done? How much? Where?
Thank you.
/r
Brad

PS - found the following thread:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=7800&p=60114&hilit ... ube#p60114

I'll give this a try.

OK, very cool: I never did get this stuff, had no use for it, but I am deathly curious how this goes. For certain Brad, try and photo and write this up, it'd be great content.

N.

Bra if I see what I think I see, you installed the upper slider bushing before you installed the upper fork tube back into the lower tube (slider). It will have to come out. However. The assembly sequence is to install the bushing onto the upper tube in its wide groove. Then, drop the damper rod into/through the upper tube. Don't forget the spring that goes onto the damper rod BEFORE you drop it into the upper tube. Install this into the lower tube. At this point, you might want to loosely insert the bolt through the bottom that holds things together. Now, drop the upper slider bushing over the upper tube down into its counterbore in the lower slider. Use a piece of 1-1/2" pvc pipe to seat it. Drop the back-up plate into place,the oil the shaft, slide the seal down, and seat itjust deep enough to put the retainer plate into the bore and start the snap ring. Finish seating things using the pvc pipe. Just hit it hard enough to seat the snap ring. Doing it thataway you won't distort or damage the seal. Don't forget to tighten the bolt at the bottom.

Thank you Larry.
/r
Brad

You can repair the pitting with JB Weld. It's a two part epoxy, found in any hardware store. Clean the pits with a pick, flush with a cleaning product (brakleen or electric contact cleaner) apply the epoxy, dress with a fine file, then emory cloth.

Brake pistons can be repaired the same way. I have a piston in my yellow bike repaired that way in 1995, and it's still in service.

Rick
I always keep that stuff around. Thank you for your endorsement. I will try that.
Brad