Installing a Dyna ignition - questions!

[NobleHops]

Hola,

So last week when I went to install my coils I discovered that they were severely cracked, which pushed me over the edge to install a Dyna ignition, new wires and matching coils. Oh, the slippery slope.

For starters, the 'Dyna S Assembly' that replaces the stock Pulser plate went on fine. On a test fit it kind-of wedged in place when I knew it needed to be able to rotate to time it, so I deburred the edge and then it was fine.

I confess I was puzzled by the orientation of the rotor though. Tim's' instructions are pretty simple and clear, and it's quite possible I am overthinking it. The new rotor installs with the little round magnet to the side of the advancer with the small circle on it. No problem.

What's got me puzzled is the interface between the new rotor and the advancer. The old rotor meshed up pretty tightly with the advancer. The Dyna rotor has, for lack of a better word, some slop in how it can be oriented. Is this making any sense to you guys that have installed this?

See how much more area there is on the old rotor to engage the arms of the advancer?



Here's the rotor in place as prescribed in the instructions:



Installed:





Does this look right to you guys?

Part 2: The wiring from the ignition up to the coils seems ripe for the installation of a quick-disconnect, if only to facilitate the tilting of the engine in the future. Anyone else come to the same conclusion? Where did you guys route the wires? Up behind the airbox and along the backbone of the frame? And what's your favorite source for those OEM-style Hitachi connectors?

Any other words of wisdom for me as I finish this up?

N.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Everything looks as it should, the Accel coils come with the spade connectors, the last Dyna coils I bought did not. You could just buy some universal spade connectors from AutoZone

K&L sells the Honda OEM connectors, singles or the full kit with the crimping tool.

PS If you have some Hylomar sealant, use it for the ignition cover, it prevents the gasket from tearing when pulling it off and on to time it .

[NobleHops]

Everything looks as it should, the Accel coils come with the spade connectors, the last Dyna coils I bought did not. You could just buy some universal spade connectors from AutoZone

K&L sells the Honda OEM connectors, singles or the full kit with the crimping tool.

Thanks Jeff,

So, not to make you repeat yourself, but I do have the orientation of the rotor to the advancer correct? Where do you route the wires up to the coils?

I kind-of prefer the idea of mounting the wires to the coils with the ring connectors, and using the quick-disconnect just so the re-installation of the wires on the coils is less likely to get messed up.

N.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Yes, the orientation is correct, remember once you tighten the bolt to the end of the rotor they become a unit and centrifugal force spreads the advancer, not any contact with the rotor shaft.

Rout the coil wires down the frame backbone using the OEM ties, the last couple bikes I did were using pods so I don't remember off the top of my head where i went down from there.

[Jeff Bennetts]

You can just make a little mini harness for the coils and buy a booted spade or bullet connector similar to whats on the blinker connections.

[NobleHops]

You can just make a little mini harness for the coils and buy a booted spade or bullet connector similar to whats on the blinker connections.

I think we're talking about the same thing: permanently hard wire a mini-harness to the coils with that stays with them and the rack, put connector(s) inline, either the booted style like you say, or these Hitachi type, so the coils can be separated from the motor quickly and easily.

I just bought a few of these, and the tool:

http://www.electricalconnection.com/ele ... itachi.htm



Overkill perhaps? Perfect!

I forgot about these guys - they used to sell a lot more stuff though - BMW-connectors etc.

N.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Do those come with the pins or are they just the connector blocks?

I have the full kit from K&L and buy the connectors a 1/2 dozen at a time. Another solution is to cannibalize an old Honda wiring harness, all you need is a dental pick to remove the pins with.

[NobleHops]

Do those come with the pins or are they just the connector blocks?

They do include the pins.

I have the full kit from K&L and buy the connectors a 1/2 dozen at a time. Another solution is to cannibalize an old Honda wiring harness, all you need is a dental pick to remove the pins with.

I went looking for that after I read your post and could not find any K&L kit online, but I did find this stuff, so I ordered up a few sizes to have a few spares - should do the trick!

What's your source for that stuff Dave? That'd be good info to have posted here.

N.

[Jeff Bennetts]

K&L is dealer only, you need to be a dealer or go through one, I'd say 95% of all bike shops are K&L dealers.

[Ringnalda]

Hey Nils, I was looking at your advancer, Looks like it is a 469 which was the subject of a dealer recall. You need either a 469a or a 422 advancer for things to work properly...

Although I just put my glasses on it looks likie 489?

Also as Jeff said, don't pinch the rotor, make sure that when the 10mm is tight, the rotor advance still works.

Cheers, Jan

[NobleHops]

Hey Nils, I was looking at your advancer, Looks like it is a 469 which was the subject of a dealer recall. You need either a 469a or a 422 advancer for things to work properly...

Although I just put my glasses on it looks likie 489?

Also as Jeff said, don't pinch the rotor, make sure that when the 10mm is tight, the rotor advance still works.

Cheers, Jan

Man, I would never get this bike on the road without you guys. Sharp eyes Jan, you nailed it:



As luck would have it there is a school-bike advancer (1981) on eBay now that I can have for short dough, although Louis gets first crack at this.

Thank you guys, I would have chased my tail forever with this.

N.

[daves79x]

Nils:
You have the bad luck of getting one of the very few early Japan '80s that didn't get the advancer changed. I assume yours is a Japan bike. That's actually the first 469 advancer I've seen. I'm assuming you know the story of those - about a 10 hp max loss of power. The original owner never got it changed, or didn't know.

As for the connectors, I have only scavenged connectors from old harnesses so far. I defer to those who have used aftermarket connectors for info on them.

Dave

[NobleHops]

Nils:
You have the bad luck of getting one of the very few early Japan '80s that didn't get the advancer changed. I assume yours is a Japan bike. That's actually the first 469 advancer I've seen. I'm assuming you know the story of those - about a 10 hp max loss of power. The original owner never got it changed, or didn't know.

As for the connectors, I have only scavenged connectors from old harnesses so far. I defer to those who have used aftermarket connectors for info on them.

Dave

Well don't I feel special!

Dave, what are your thoughts on the orientation of rotor to advancer in the photos near the top?

N.

[daves79x]

Nils:
I have zero experience with these ignitions on CBXs. I sure looks like you have it correct. I'd just follow the instructions and see how it works. Are you getting close to firing it up?

Dave

[NobleHops]

Nils:
I have zero experience with these ignitions on CBXs. I sure looks like you have it correct. I'd just follow the instructions and see how it works. Are you getting close to firing it up?

Dave

I need to finish some wiring of the Dyna, install the chain when it gets here, connect the cables and install the exhaust, and then it would be ready, minus brakes

Oh, and I still need to get my gauges back from Tim's, any day I think.

I also have a box full of basically new stock brakes, so that's another day of reassembly and installation and bleeding.

An hour or two to reinstall the bodywork and then I'm gonna start to run out of things to do!

It could be done in a weekend with a competent partner, but that'd take the remaining fun out of it, and I'll be gone most weekends in March, so it'll be another month or so before it sings

N.