DRILL BIT

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:24 pm

Once again I discovered a small pain in the a$$ problem created by a previous owner on my 80. The top oil filler cover bolt is twisted off and glued in to hide it. I haven't pulled the cover off yet but I am sure I will need to remove what remails of the bolt and want someone here to tell me what the hardest bit available retail is? I will try a reverse bit first but if that doesn't work I will need to drill it.

karl sparks · Post by **karl sparks** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:06 am

cobalt

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:21 am

I'm with Karl but try a reverse cobalt... Don't forget they're very brittle & don't like to be bent. Where from ? McMaster Carr

ericfreeman · Post by **ericfreeman** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:46 am

Don't forget to try some heat in the area as well: heat gun or small microtorch should help expand the aluminum around the broken bolt.

Eric

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:06 pm

I don't think you will have to drill it. Once the cover is off, you may even have enough of the bolt sticking out to turn it with pliers. The "apply heat" advice is good and should do the job unless some imbecile has used a threadlocker on the bolt

Will · Post by **Will** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:18 pm

twinegar wrote:Once again I discovered a small pain in the a$$ problem created by a previous owner on my 80. The top oil filler cover bolt is twisted off and glued in to hide it. I haven't pulled the cover off yet but I am sure I will need to remove what remails of the bolt and want someone here to tell me what the hardest bit available retail is? I will try a reverse bit first but if that doesn't work I will need to drill it.

What holds the oil filter in place?

The hardest drills available are carbide. Tool & Die shops use them for drilling into hardened steel. The ones they use are helix ground and very expensive. They are for multiple use. You can get a lot less expensive one with a spade bit for a single use. They are used for drilling concrete and are readily available (Home Depot, Lowe's, our local hardware store)

That said, a cobalt drill will work fine for just about anything on a motorcycle.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:37 am

Will wrote:
What holds the oil filter in place?

He is talking about the oil filler cover, i.e.: the transmission cover

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:58 am

I'm with Mike, there should be plenty of metal to get some teeth into unless you're unlucky...

Will · Post by **Will** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:25 pm

EMS wrote:
Will wrote:
What holds the oil filter in place?

He is talking about the oil filler cover, i.e.: the transmission cover

Oops. I'll have to slow down my reading, just like the rest of me.

So, a bolt broke and the head got glued back on for cosmetic reasons. Usually enough of the bolt is still there to grab with a vice grips, especially if you grind a flat on the broken bolt to help hold it.

Those original bolts are relatively soft. You can drill them with anything sold for drilling metal. If it's a replacement Allen bolt, it shouldn't have broken, if it did, you may need a quality drill.

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:01 am

My first CBX had the same trick done to it. Top bolt was siliconed in place to hide the broken bolt.

But, that was 17 years ago. I don't remember how I got it out.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:28 pm

Actually it is the bolt closest to the dipstick and next to the shifter. http://www.spookytoms.com/SpookyTom-CBX-80-1-RB27.html

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:45 pm

The new gasket arrived so I removed the left cover and found that the bolt had twisted off even with the hole but was able to drill a hole and use a B&D extractor to remove it. Someone had smeared a thick layer of JB Weld underneath from half way up the front to half way up the back of the joint where the cover mounts and from the crankcase to the outer edge of the cover to fix an oil leak. They sprayed it silver so I didn't notice until I pulled the cover off. My first thought with that much epoxy in place was that a major crack in the case or cover was being hidden but after a close inspection discovered the reality.
Take a look at the pile of epoxy I removed.
http://www.spookytoms.com/SpookyTom-CBX-80-1-RB16B.html

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:57 pm

Looks like someone had a helluva chain snap...

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:08 pm

Because of the damage to the upper case and starter mounts it looks to me like they went ahead and broke the rest of it away to hide it. The spacer between the sprocket cover and case was missing also so had I broke a chain the damage might have been extensive. In order to avoid a case change I will probably use Marine-Tex to replace the missing curve. It worked great for the sprocket cover mount and starter mount and after painting looks and feels like metal. If I sold the bike some day I would disclose the repairs unlike the guy I got it from. Actually all the documentation anyone would need on any of my bikes is on my website.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:12 pm

Trouble is twine, he may not have been the culprit & was unaware ?? There I go thinking the best of my fellow man...

The International CBX Owners Association

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