So, first, thanks for all the replies regarding the leaky oil hose. It appears to have in fact been the hose since none of my sealing techniques worked.
Found another hose from our friend Louis Mintrone, and the big question now is, after tilting the engine forward in the frame to have some room to work, is it OK to separate the AIRBOX between the filter chamber and the carb outlets? There's a big clamp in there, and it looks like the easiest (all things being relative) way to have some room to wrangle the hose in & out of there......
Al: I am a little confused here... First, I am not so sure whether Louis is everybody's friend here.. ..just kidding, Louis and I get along!
But..: After you have tilted the engine, the airbox plenum will be already disconnected from the airbox that holds the filter, where the large clamp sits...??? So, I don't understand the question..
Unless you didn't loosen the clamp before and the plenum stuck with the airbox and disconnected from the carb intakes???
I've always (LOTS of times...) taken the clamps off the carbs and separated THEM from the airbox, 'cause I was taking the carbs out for cleaning. BUT if it's okay to separate the airbox at the LARGE junction instead (leaving half of it still ON the carbs) it will certainly save a lot of frustration on re-assembly. I'm guessing this is the only way to get the OLD hose out and the new one back in???? (Right-side hose)
I have replaced oil hoses with the stock airbox in place and didn't have to tilt the engine. It is a little bit of work to get the hose ends through but it's doable. And (to me) much easier then tilting the engine.
one out of four people in this country is mentally unbalanced
think of your three closest friends, if they're okay then
YOU'RE THE ONE
[quote="cbxtacy"]I have replaced oil hoses with the stock airbox in place and didn't have to tilt the engine. It is a little bit of work to get the hose ends through but it's doable. And (to me) much easier then tilting the engine.[/quote]
Al, you will find the easiest and almost always the correct solution to your bike problems will come from CBXtacy...emphasis on the easiest. George saves his time/energy so he can continue his career as a video mogul.
We are waiting for the next installment of the V-12 Chronicles.
Why thank you Steve, and I hope Al doesn't mind my hijacking his thread just a bit. In my youth (60's as a teenager growing up in SoCal) a friend had a '38 Buick. Big and stock. We called it Big Al. But that's not the hijack. Andreas is looking for items for two different projects.
He needs a VF1000R crank, cam drive gear cassettes, and cam gears to convert his V12 to cam gear drive. He's actually going to build another engine.
And he's looking for a V/flat 12 Ferrari/Lamborghini to build a three wheeler for transportation. He's thinking two wheels in front and one in back. RWD. He has no idea how the drive/transmission will work yet. But it'll probably need one of these on the back http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-6657/
Last edited by cbxtacy on Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
one out of four people in this country is mentally unbalanced
think of your three closest friends, if they're okay then
YOU'RE THE ONE
So you really can snake that danged thing out of there without even removing the clutch cover (again???)
I know the right-side exhaust has to come off of there to get to the lower fitting....
(EDIT!) No, the clutch cover has to come off. Again.
I plugged one end of the OLD hose and put 45psi air into it,
and oddly enough it SEEMS to be holding pressure. Which is strange
since it's apparently been leaking just sitting there and having never
started the enigne. I'm perplexed. But, I'll stick the new hose in, put in
some new O-rings and maybe do a better job of sealing the clutch cover this time (if that's even it.)
I have no more patience for this thing tonight.....
I realize it wouldn't be original, but there's nothing special about our oil lines. You can just cut off the clamping bands and use standard oil hose with any style clamp.
You want something nice looking? Use stainless braided hose and anodized ends to cover the clamps. Same as the car guys use..........
Rick Pope
Either garage is too small or we have too many bikes. Or Momma's car needs to go outside.
big al wrote:I've always (LOTS of times...) taken the clamps off the carbs and separated THEM from the airbox, 'cause I was taking the carbs out for cleaning. BUT if it's okay to separate the airbox at the LARGE junction instead (leaving half of it still ON the carbs) it will certainly save a lot of frustration on re-assembly. I'm guessing this is the only way to get the OLD hose out and the new one back in???? (Right-side hose)
It is far more difficult to match up six carb throats to the plenum than one large hole to the filter housing when tilting the engine back.
My one-off CUSTOM CBX has stainless steel lines AND a big ol' 9-row cooler on it, and it DOES look trick! But this one's a restoration and I'm trying to keep it looking fairly original. Thanks for the input!
ONE of these days it'll actually be done! But just to tease a little...
1100 Katana front end;GSXR wheels (3.5 front/4.5 rear)
FZR400 fairing (just the top half with the twin headlights); Kerker 6:1 header: 1163 Big Bore kit/Billy Rohm porting/Falicon rods/K&N separates. Had the frame/wheels/various engine bits powdercoated gold, and will probably go back to Candy Glory Red body, although it would look pretty tough in jet black too! I PROMISE pics soon but gotta get the resto bike done first!!!!
big al wrote:ONE of these days it'll actually be done! But just to tease a little...
1100 Katana front end;GSXR wheels (3.5 front/4.5 rear)
FZR400 fairing (just the top half with the twin headlights); Kerker 6:1 header: 1163 Big Bore kit/Billy Rohm porting/Falicon rods/K&N separates. Had the frame/wheels/various engine bits powdercoated gold, and will probably go back to Candy Glory Red body, although it would look pretty tough in jet black too! I PROMISE pics soon but gotta get the resto bike done first!!!!
