CLUTCH NOT DISENGAGING

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:18 pm

On my newest CBX the clutch wouldn't disengage completely so I did the re-adjustment via the manual and still can't fix it. No way will it slip into neutral when stopped, engine idling so do I need to replace the friction plates or should I replace both the friction plates and bands?

cbxtacy · Post by **cbxtacy** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:01 pm

my 82 has been doing that for the last 50,000 miles. I have to get it into neutral before I stop or hit the kill switch, pop into nuetral, and then start it up again. The clutch is grabby when hot also. I have no intention of fixing it until it starts slipping. I've had many X's with that problem. If the plates aren't perfectly flat, they drag creating friction and putting tension on the engagement dogs in the gearbox. If you try REAL (all capitols, I'm yelling) hard to get it in neutral at a stop, you can bend a shifting fork and the cases need to be split to replace the fork. Sometimes you can remove the clutch plates and clean them up, I like to use kerosene in a flat pan with a small window pane, if your careful that will cut down high spots and get rid of glaze. The fiber plates all have a certain direction they have to go in and the metal plates are punched out and if you look at the edges you can see which way they were punched out and all have to go the same way. I think I'm confusing me. But first try what new shorty suggested in the other thread. I can feel a difference in my X's between dinosaur and synthetic oil also. Go with a synthetic.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:12 pm

My other two "X's" don't do that so I may just do the clean-up and see what happens and then buy the complete band and plate kit if it still hangs. My 69 CB750 was so bad that when I first started it after sitting for almost 40 years I put it in gear and it took off down the drive with the lever pulled in and after a thorough cleaning it was like new.
Thanks.

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:35 pm

Your friction plates may have been used and soaked in car motor oil sometime in the past. When you do eventually change out the clutch you might try a great combo that's worked well in my bikes for years and over 25,000 miles. EBC friction plates and Barnett steels. No slip, so creeping and perfect engagement every time.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:20 am

Warped plates would be my first diagnosis ?

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:02 am

I bought a complete clutch rebuild kit off Ebay that includes:

"Complete kit" includes the following:

* 7 Barnett Steel Plates or Discs

* 8 KG Factory Friction Discs

* Barnett clutch Spring Set

Was this a good choice?

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:52 am

Unless you KNOW those Barnett springs have normal tension and are NOT heavy duty springs I wouldn't use them. Your left hand will thank you! EBC or Honda friction plates are about the same. IMO the Barnett steels make the difference.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:19 pm

Anything would be better than it is now. After reaching running temp the gears shift out a lot easier and the starter whine is getting better.
Thanks