Ignition switch shorting out

[Terry]

When the key is turned to the ON position the (dash) lights either flicker on & off or don't come on at all until I wiggle the key a lot. Some tries don't work at all and I was nearly stranded a couple times at gas stops Sunday. Is the top or bottom portion of the switch the culprit? Should I get an entire assembly or just the bottom? Also, the book says to R&R the switch you have to remove the gauges. Is this a chore or pretty simple? If the bottom assembly is all I need, is connecting it to the old top assembly an easy task? Thanks for any help you can give.

[EMS]

Terry: Sorry don't have any suggestion on how to solve your problem, but I think you sent me a pm that I can not read. Anything important?

[Blaine McKibbin]

Sounds like the bottom part of the switch is faulty. I have not taken a CBX switch apart but I have taken apart a gold wing switch of the same vintage. They are probably identical. The lower part of the switch attaches to the lock assembly by three metal tabs that have to be carefully bent back to separate the two parts. Better mark these two parts with a marker for correct alignment on reassembly. Be carefull when separating the two parts because there are small springs and copper contacts inside that may fall out.. The internal contacts probably just need cleaning. If the contacts have been dirty for some time the plastic body of the switch may be melted from the heat of increased electrical resistance. Don't dispair, it can probably be fixed by trimming with a sharp knife. If the CBX is like most other Jap bikes, the instrument cluster is held in place with two bolts and the tach and speedo cables. The bolts are accessed from the bottom, so you may have to use a creative combo of socket extensions. A fairing will make access more difficult. It is definately worth trying to repair the switch. I may have made it sound difficult but it is not. When reassembling the switch smear gobs of petroleum jelly around inside over the internal contacts to prevent future corrosion. Good luck and have fun.



Blaine

[Jim-Jim]

You don't say if you have a 79-80 or an 81-82. If you have an 81-82, you can remove the whole switch (remove the instrument cluster first - no biggie - 2 nuts and cables). Write down the color wire connections FIRST!!! After you get it out, put key in, turn to ACC. There are two tabs in slot in side of switch; press in and the lower contact unit will come off. The lower contact unit is a 5-prong on the 79-80, 6-prong on the 81-82. This can be replaced or cleaned. I haven't had to do it, myself, (yet) but that's what the TM says. I do not know if the same procedure works for the '79-80; maybe someone else can comment.

[Terry]

Thanks guys. I ended up replacing the entire switch as it didn't make sense to me that if wiggling the key in the top section caused it to short or not connect properly, that the lower section (the non moving part) of the switch would be the culprit. Funny though, you (do) have to shop around for prices. My Honda dealer wanted over $120 for the switch, servicehonda wanted nearly $90 and ebay had a new one for less than $30! Thanks again for the responses. BTW, she's a 79.

[Jim-Jim]

Terry,

Would you sell me that old switch that you replaced? I'd like to take it apart and see how it ticks - maybe learn something for the future. Let me know.