Pro Link shock tension
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Pro Link shock tension
I had this question sent to me by another member and I have no experience with the pro link shock. Would somebody please help us out.
Hi Bob,
I recently purchased a Progressive shock to install on my 81’ CBX and I was wondering if anyone knows the approximate preload (by counting exposed threads) to get the proper sag for a rider that weighs 170lbs that usually travels with about 20lbs of additional weight in a tank bag and factory travel bags. I have gone to the web site and could not find any information addressing this issue.
Thanks,
Hi Bob,
I recently purchased a Progressive shock to install on my 81’ CBX and I was wondering if anyone knows the approximate preload (by counting exposed threads) to get the proper sag for a rider that weighs 170lbs that usually travels with about 20lbs of additional weight in a tank bag and factory travel bags. I have gone to the web site and could not find any information addressing this issue.
Thanks,
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I've had many pro links. I've had them with Works Performance and Progressive shocks. I don't like either one. There is so much friction created in the linkage for the pro link that any rebound/compression damping adjustability in an aftermarket shock is wasted. Also if you want to adjust the ride height it's a real pain in the ass. It's really difficult to get the spanner wrench in to where you can change things. I only do it when I change rear tires. I'm going back to a stock shock on all my pro links when I get the energy to remove the others off them. As far as where to set it for ride height for your particular load? My bike with the Progressive in in CA and when I get back there I'll see where it's set at. It's a naked pro link and it's set for a 250+lb aggressive rider.
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George:
I'll have to disagree with you there. The Progressive shock is a HUGE improvement over the stock shock. I've even rebuilt several stock ones with heavier oil and ran 75 psi and even then there's no comparison. The stock one is marginal at best. I think most who have tried them on the street at least, would agree. Can't imagine the stock one would be any better on the track.
Dave
I'll have to disagree with you there. The Progressive shock is a HUGE improvement over the stock shock. I've even rebuilt several stock ones with heavier oil and ran 75 psi and even then there's no comparison. The stock one is marginal at best. I think most who have tried them on the street at least, would agree. Can't imagine the stock one would be any better on the track.
Dave
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My 82 has a Progressive rear unit on it and it works very well. No complaints at all and I weigh about 245 and have been heavily packed on tour as most of you know.
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I had a friend measure his Progressive shock on an '82 and he comes up with the following: He has 11 threads (valleys) showing and this gives a spring height (length) of about 5 1/4 inches. That would be for about a 200 lb rider, but he has ridden 2-up a lot without changing anything and it's worked very well.
I'd also suggest to anyone that they should take apart and lube the Pro-Link bushings at least every 10-12K miles. Lots of wear there if you don't keep them lubed.
Dave
I'd also suggest to anyone that they should take apart and lube the Pro-Link bushings at least every 10-12K miles. Lots of wear there if you don't keep them lubed.
Dave
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- cbxtacy
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I don't dislike the aftermarket shocks but they're just too difficult to adjust. When it's set up for solo riding, I really drag things when loaded. Between me, Kayeboo, and our stuff, we can get over 600 lbs on the bike. And the upkeep on the bushings (keeping them lubricated) is a pain in the butt. It wouldn't be bad if I lived in the great white north with abbreviated riding seasons but I don't. With the stocker I'd keep it around 25 lbs and loaded blow it up to 40+.
Now the front end is critical. I don't use air because that causes the seals to constrict the movement of the forks. I take Progressive Suspension fork springs, cut 2" off the soft end (the soft end is the end where the windings are farther apart) and get pvc to make a long spacer. I like to get 1" drop from fully extended to me sitting on the bike. I use a lighter weight fork oil and instead of measuring because you never know how much was still in them to start, I remove the springs, collapse the forks and fill to within 6" of the top. Makes for a stiff ride, not real bad on bumpy roads, but feels real planted and stable in the twisties.
Now the front end is critical. I don't use air because that causes the seals to constrict the movement of the forks. I take Progressive Suspension fork springs, cut 2" off the soft end (the soft end is the end where the windings are farther apart) and get pvc to make a long spacer. I like to get 1" drop from fully extended to me sitting on the bike. I use a lighter weight fork oil and instead of measuring because you never know how much was still in them to start, I remove the springs, collapse the forks and fill to within 6" of the top. Makes for a stiff ride, not real bad on bumpy roads, but feels real planted and stable in the twisties.
one out of four people in this country is mentally unbalanced
think of your three closest friends, if they're okay then
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