The International CBX Owners Association

I registered on this forum some time ago as I was looking to buy a CBX. Finally found one that works for me, a 1982 pearl white example.

This is a one owner bike and it's history was similar to my first one. I bought mine in Tacoma, a new 1982 model, in March of 1985. This owner bought his in Chicago, a new 1982 model, in March of 1985. I sold mine in 1994, but he held this one until I bought it last week.

This bike is cosmetically OK and has 53K. It is all original with the exception of a Corbin seat. A one owner, all original is a great find for me and I appreciate the prior owner's care.

Mechanically, it is running and all of the lights work as they should. Issues include the condition of the rotors, a low voltage reading on the volt meter (showing 10V key on but battery has 12.4 - haven't checked the running voltage yet) and it doesn't like taking throttle without the choke as it bogs down significantly.

I'm grateful for this forum and it's members for all the resources it provides. Hoping to one day contribute something.

TIA for all of this information!

Congrats! I too recently bought an 82 like the one I used to have. So far I’ve managed to put about 5,000 miles on it. Lots of upgrades, rebuilt and renewed parts. Don’t know how many owners this one had but it was taken real good care of. Only had 33,690 miles. Good luck with yours.

Welcome!



The voltmeters are comically inaccurate, do as you have and measure the offset and use it like that, adding the error value.

Every old CBX needs carb service by now, and you’d be wise to baseline the valves and ignition at the same time. You must service the entire fuel system holistically, clean out the tank, petcock, replace the fuel lines. The secondary ‘auto valve’ is also a candidate for removal.

Stand by, I’ll link a helpful thread.



N.

Tom at Truedisk.net can resurface your rotors.

Your carb issue is most likely clogged idle jets that will affect the entire performance range. The motor is being starved for fuel, when you apply the choke, you starve it for air and it makes it more to the correct necessary balance of air and fuel to run, but not good.
A professional carb rebuild will solve that problem along with several other minor issues to improve drivability and performance.

Several of my customers will have me go through the entire bike, carbs, brakes, valve clearances, cam chain adjustments, drive chain and sprockets, oil/filter change, check/clean the oil pump pickup screen, fork seals, fork oil, compression test, leak-down test, tires, wheel bearings, valve stem seals, alternator brushes, starter brushes, etc.....especially with a bike with the mileage you indicated.

If you can't service all these things, find someone near you that can and has a history with CBX's.

Winter won't last as long if you have a project to keep you busy.

Regards,

Welcome to CBX ownership! The voltmeter unfortunately is very inaccurate. Use it as a comparison only, If it reads the same all the time that can be considered "normal". If it reads higher or lower than "normal" that would require further investigation. Enjoy the your new ride and continue to ask questions when necessary.
Mike

CBX-tras wrote: Thu Aug 29, 2024 8:49 am Tom at Truedisk.net can resurface your rotors.

Your carb issue is most likely clogged idle jets that will affect the entire performance range. The motor is being starved for fuel, when you apply the choke, you starve it for air and it makes it more to the correct necessary balance of air and fuel to run, but not good.
A professional carb rebuild will solve that problem along with several other minor issues to improve drivability and performance.

Several of my customers will have me go through the entire bike, carbs, brakes, valve clearances, cam chain adjustments, drive chain and sprockets, oil/filter change, check/clean the oil pump pickup screen, fork seals, fork oil, compression test, leak-down test, tires, wheel bearings, valve stem seals, alternator brushes, starter brushes, etc.....especially with a bike with the mileage you indicated.

If you can't service all these things, find someone near you that can and has a history with CBX's.

Winter won't last as long if you have a project to keep you busy.

Regards,

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the insight into the running issues. Makes me feel certain that the carbs will probably be job one. I'll be doing some things on my on and for others, turning to the pros. A man's gotta know his limits as they say.... Don't know that I would have pulled the trigger on a CBX without the amount of support still here for the bike. Thanks again

80 cbx dude #6216 wrote: Thu Aug 29, 2024 5:38 pm Welcome to CBX ownership! The voltmeter unfortunately is very inaccurate. Use it as a comparison only, If it reads the same all the time that can be considered "normal". If it reads higher or lower than "normal" that would require further investigation. Enjoy the your new ride and continue to ask questions when necessary.
Mike

Good to know! I did a basic check with a voltmeter at the battery and with the bike running at various rpms, still only battery voltage reading. Another part of the project to be considered

NobleHops wrote: Wed Aug 28, 2024 7:56 pm viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11043

Thanks. Very helpful and appreciated. It is great to have this kind of resource.

One of the first things to check in the charging circuit is connector corrosion at all the connections between the alternator and the battery if battery is not shoeing 14 volts at 2500 rpm. Especially the connector under the right side cover. Best thing to do is completely disassemble those connections and clean them well with some kind of abrasive. (Thin file, sand paper, etc.) They might not look corroded. BUT, they are. Pack them with silicone after cleaning. If that doesn't get your charging voltage up, then, it's on to the alternator and/or rectifier. A shop manual will be your best friend for that (and other work). cbxclub.com/manuals

Welcome aboard! It's a great ride

Perhaps this should be a topic of it's own, but it applies here:

I believe silicone grease, or di-electric grease, is non-conductive. So, after that thorough cleaning, might it be better to just connect things and give them a spritz of something like Fluid Film or some other corrosion preventer? I've been using Fluid Film for many years, and it's my go-to for battery terminals and all sorts of connections which are in the elements.

Some of you older gents may remember packing connectors full of white lithium grease. There's still a small tub of it on the shelf above my work bench.

Dielectric grease is interesting stuff, and non-conductive as you say, except where the two components are actually touching each other. The best practice that I I know of for its use with our old open-style “Hitachi” or “Sumitomo” connectors is to first ensure the spades within the connectors are clean and the wire not brown and oxidized, and once reassembled into the connector, smush a pea-sized dot of it into the female side of the connection, wipe a skosh of it on the inner connector surface, then make the connection and wipe off any excess that might have been pushed out. That will waterproof the electrical connection and prevent corrosion for a looooong time. This will also prevent the two halves of the connector pair from getting stuck to each other.

Larry Zimmer wrote: Fri Aug 30, 2024 12:18 pm One of the first things to check in the charging circuit is connector corrosion at all the connections between the alternator and the battery if battery is not shoeing 14 volts at 2500 rpm. Especially the connector under the right side cover. Best thing to do is completely disassemble those connections and clean them well with some kind of abrasive. (Thin file, sand paper, etc.) They might not look corroded. BUT, they are. Pack them with silicone after cleaning. If that doesn't get your charging voltage up, then, it's on to the alternator and/or rectifier. A shop manual will be your best friend for that (and other work). cbxclub.com/manuals

Welcome aboard! It's a great ride

Thanks. Just sent payment to join. Looking forward to riding a CBX again, It's been about 30 years with a Gold Wing in the interim...

80 cbx dude #6216 wrote: Thu Aug 29, 2024 5:38 pm Welcome to CBX ownership! The voltmeter unfortunately is very inaccurate. Use it as a comparison only, If it reads the same all the time that can be considered "normal". If it reads higher or lower than "normal" that would require further investigation. Enjoy the your new ride and continue to ask questions when necessary.
Mike

That's good to know. Just sold my 1995 BMW R1100RS which had some sort of aftermarket voltmeter/clock/OAT attached and it was good to see a charging value. Probably a placebo, but it made for a more comfortable ride....

Thanks for the info!