Head oil feed pipe leak

[sixinoz]

Rats - just when my bike is running like a dream it seems the oil feed pipe is leaking. Oil is coming from the lower joint where rubber meets the crimp. I have checked that it is not the sealing washers.
Part NLA so is a used part an option or get a part remade?
It seems with a bit of effort the pipe can be removed without taking off the carbs - possible?

[tevan]

Are you talking about the hoses from both sides of the motor going up to the oil cooler? If so I sell them in stainless steel braided hose. Pm me if interested.

[tevan]

I just reread that and I think you are talking about that small hose 6” long from the head to the block. I think you will have to pull carbs to replace that one. I have never heard of that one ever leaking it is always the cooler hoses.

[sixinoz]

Yeah - I just wonder if the engine heat over 40 years hasn't made the rubber brittle and maybe develop cracking - sort like the intake rubbers.
Anyway the leak is not bad so it is not an urgent fix.
I'm sure Louis will have a good replacement in his stash.

[EMS]

I just reread that and I think you are talking about that small hose 6” long from the head to the block. .

He is talking "rubber", so I think it is the oil cooler line. It is a - maybe not common - but often occuring leak.

[NobleHops]

Chiming in here late to say, "I agree". We did two CBXs this year and both had failed oil cooler lines. One kindly waited to fail till the bike was shipped home to the customer in Indiana (Grrrr) and the other was my own Prolink. Louis sent a pair of very lightly used ones to my Indiana customer for me, ($$), but for my own bike I wised up and got a set of braided steel ones from Terry (tevan) and they are excellent. Terry does these on an exchange basis, you send him yours and he sends you a done set back. No mas, I will use these 100% of the time moving forward.

20180625_120559.jpg

It can be a tight fit installing the steel lines on the right side - we discovered that if you remove the clutch cable and then completely slack the clutch adjuster, you can rotate the clutch actuator arm out of the way just far enough to stuff the new line past the tight spot, and then you're home free. Recommended.

20180625_120559.jpg

[tevan]

Chiming in here late to say, "I agree". We did two CBXs this year and both had failed oil cooler lines. One kindly waited to fail till the bike was shipped home to the customer in Indiana (Grrrr) and the other was my own Prolink. Louis sent a pair of very lightly used ones to my Indiana customer for me, ($$), but for my own bike I wised up and got a set of braided steel ones from Terry (tevan) and they are excellent. Terry does these on an exchange basis, you send him yours and he sends you a done set back. No mas, I will use these 100% of the time moving forward.

20180625_120559.jpg

It can be a tight fit installing the steel lines on the right side - we discovered that if you remove the clutch cable and then completely slack the clutch adjuster, you can rotate the clutch actuator arm out of the way just far enough to stuff the new line past the tight spot, and then you're home free. Recommended.

20180625_120559.jpg

Thanks Nils

I replace the stock lines to these stainless steel braided lines on every restore I do. If anybody needs any feel free to message me and I can fix you up.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

I was chasing an oil leak and thought it was that hose and decided to swap it out.
After monkeying around with it until i had run out of swear words i ended up slightly tilting the engine before i started reaching for the b.f.h.

Thanks for offering that service, Tevan.