Separating alternator cases

[sixinoz]

Tried to separate my alternator cases but they are really tight - I assume from the shaft being a tight fit in the bearing in the outer cover.
Any way to coax them apart without have to take the clutch off?

[daves79x]

Twist and tap, it will come apart.

Dave

[sixinoz]

Ok thanks Dave - came apart with some taps on the flanges.

More questions:
1. Alternator clutch was a dirty brown colour on both faces - like rust - but not been anywhere near any moisture and the oil is very clean?
2. Clutch is still wearing in the inner part of the clutch instead of the whole face. Redo both clutch faces with emery paper per previous threads?
3. In the centre of the splined clutch drive there is some sealant - is this original? Purpose?
4. Is clutch lubrication via crankcase fumes? Should the clutch faces be lubricated before being assembled?

Many thanks in advance.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

A couple tips on smoothing the plate face.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6781

[daves79x]

If the plates aren't blue, then reface them. Just make sure there's some of the slinger grooves left. Then make sure your spring measures at least 29-30mm. Then add shim washers to make up for what the clutches are lacking. The alternator clutches run in a pretty strong oil bath, fed through the little aluminum button in the end of the primary shaft. Make sure the button is still there. Renew brushes if necessary, install the two new bearings and center seal. Make sure the square o-ring is oriented correctly - it is not square, it's rectangular.

Also make sure you still have the original thick fiber shim washer and thinner steel one.

Dave

[sixinoz]

Thanks for the reply Dave. I attach a photo of the clutch shaft. There appears to be an aluminium disc with a 1 - 1.5 mm hole for the oil feed. This hole was sealed up by the PO??? Maybe that was the cause of the clutch scoring and discoloration?
If you look at the photo is this what it should be like?
As for the spring it is only 28mm - so should I shim it with 2mm washer(s) to compensate and perhaps a bit more?

[daves79x]

That hole has to be open. 2mm. You need to remove the button and be sure the hollow primary shaft is not contaminated. You can thread a small screw a couple of threads in the hole and pop it out. Alternately, pull the clutch cover and poke the button out from that side. Your spring is pretty sacked. A new one measures 31mm. Shim for that and what was removed from the clutches.

Dave

[sixinoz]

Thanks for the valuable info Dave. Would never have known this button came out. The primary shaft was absolutely filthy inside with black oil residue so I gave that a good clean out - great tip. I should now get full oil supply to the clutch.

From previous threads and other sites it appears that Honda machined the driven clutch concave. Most pics of clutch wear show the scoring on the inner circumference but not on the outer (as mine is). If the outer circumference was higher than the inner circumference wouldn't that engage the other plate on the outer circumference first and show wear and scoring there? I assume that the non driven clutch was machined flat? Have I missed a logical conclusion here?

[daves79x]

Just work the plates down the best you can on emery paper stuck to a pane of glass. They do not have to be perfect. But you must replace the bearings and seal also.

Dave