Tilting engine

[jerry smith]

Don't know if I'm not looking in the right place, but I can't seem to find any info on the procedure. Do I just Remove the top bolts and gently tilt it foreward? Are ther any wires or cables to remove or loosen first. I haven't rode it for 6 years(family illness) and want to do some maintenance on it first.
Thanks. Jerry.

[wyly]

Don't know if I'm not looking in the right place, but I can't seem to find any info on the procedure. Do I just Remove the top bolts and gently tilt it foreward? Are ther any wires or cables to remove or loosen first. I haven't rode it for 6 years(family illness) and want to do some maintenance on it first.
Thanks. Jerry.

If I've missed something someone else will jump in soon with that info, my engine isn't even in my bike so I can't run to the garage to have a look...

there are four hangers on the engine, two on the front and two in the middle, on the back of the engine there two long bolts that go all the way through, the top one needs to be removed and the lower only loosened, the engine will pivot on this lower bolt when you lower the front.

You may need to loosen the exhaust in the back or remove in some cases depending on the system you have...some forum members do the tilt with the exhaust in place, my 6x6 pipes come apart in the middle so they can remain attached at the engine...

put a small hydraulic jack under the engine to lower the engine before you remove the hangers on front and middle. A piece of plywood or 2x4 on top of jack to protect engine case.

wiring- from what I can recall ...disconnect the neutral switch wire, oil pressure wire at engine and plug wires. I believe there's a rubber vent line on the back of the engine that will pop off as you lower the engine..

loosen carb boots... I loosen them at the front of the carbs...shift linkage I believe needs to be disconnected as well...

When I first did it I went slowly, lowering the jack watching to see if it gets hung up somewhere and address those issues as I progressed...

the tricky part is getting it back up and seating the carbs, let me know when you get that far and I'll tell you the easy way to re set the carbs into the rubbers and maybe in back if they pop out of the airbox...you could probably do this with the tank in place but I like to see what I'm doing and the tank is easy to remove.

the first time I did this it probably spent the best part of two days lowering and raising(reattaching carbs drove me crazy), now I can do the entire process in 2-3 hrs...

[daves79x]

Short answer is you should not attempt the job without a shop manual. You are just asking for trouble and to break some very expensive things.

Dave

[jerry smith]

Thanks guys.It's what I needed to hear. I have a shop manual on the way.
Jerry

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Until your manual arrives you can have a look at the Honda version.
http://www.cbx.dk/Manual/r5cbx1000.pdf
Wyly covered most of the steps, another thing to add is securing the bike itself by either a zip tie around the front brake lever and/or a strap around the front wheel and center stand to prevent the bike from pitching forward.

[EMS]

One thing that gets forgotten is to disconnect the cable from the oil pressure sensor. It may snap off if you don't. Also, before you even touch any engine hangers, loosen the rear axle and move the rear wheel forward to give the chain enough slack for the engine to tilt. Disconnect the tach drive. Loosen the oil cooler hangers will also help. Like Dave said, a manual is essential. But watch for some little things that the manual assumes any Honda mechanic knows and it will not mention. And as I am used to removing the exhaust on my Prolink when I tilt the engine, I have never attempted this procedure without taking the exhaust off on the other models either.

[jerry smith]

Thanks again to everyone.I feel confident to move on. I have a '75 kawasaki Z1 and a '78 Rickman framed Z1 that i've been vintage racing with the VRRA and AHRMA so I'm familiar with doing my own wrenching.Seem to spend a fair amount of time fixing crash damage. I'd like to have the CBX back on the road this spring so I plan to do a complete maintenance, forks, steering and swingarm etc. My last road bike was a '98 Valkyrie so I'm familiar with multiple carbs. Looking foreward to learning about the CBX. Wondering how steep the learnig curve will be.
Jerry

[daves79x]

The carbs will be your biggest challenge, by far. Each individual carb will be like many other ones you may have worked on, but how they come apart and go together and get synched is another matter. It will likely take you 2 or 3 tries. Allow for a lot of frustration there. If you are allowing any $$ for sending something out to have done - send the carbs! Ask away for any help needed.

Dave

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Jerry, one of your fellow VRRA members Jim Kotsilidis stops by here occasionally.
Don't know if you live anywhere near him but he has lots of Honda DOHC knowledge.

[wyly]

And as I am used to removing the exhaust on my Prolink when I tilt the engine, I have never attempted this procedure without taking the exhaust off on the other models either.

I wouldn't have thought it possible either until another forum member posted a picture of his engine tilted with exhaust still attached at the engine...

[daves79x]

It's a piece of cake and a real time saver - especially on the Pro-Links.


Dave

[jerry smith]

Yes I know Jim. See him at the track all the time. We used to race in the P3 heavyweight class. He had (has ) a beautifully built Honda.
I'm warming up the garage now and going to get started.
Jerry

[cross]

If I remember correctly, clutch cable needs disconnecting, engine side.
It will also help removing the engine crash guards. I have 6-1 DG and didn't remove the exhaust.
Loosening rear wheel is also a must and removing chain from sprocket allows for more tilt.

It seems like a lot of work and it really is but it doesn't take whole lot of time, just check multiple times that all is disconnected before you lower the engine

[jerry smith]

Thanks to everyones help I had the carbs off in 3 hrs. Surprisingly uneventful. The bike has been parked for at least 5 years, but has been well cared for. After braking loose the nuts and bolts most of them could be unscrewed with my fingers. Hopefully the carbs will be as cooperative. Made a note to reconnect the throttle cables first thing on the install. Phew! After getting them off I feel I'm qualified to start doing vasectomys.
Jerry.

[daves79x]

Sounds like a good start!

Dave