The International CBX Owners Association

Thank you guys!

Just making very sure here: It is possible to remove the valve cover of the 1979 CBX without tilting the engine... a challenge but possible.... ? Regards!

Yes it can be done but ANY work being done on the top end will be easier if the engine has been tilted.
An old thread but some pertinent info. viewtopic.php?t=7540

Thanks Steve!!

Put rag/cloth, etc. over the cover as you wiggle it out to prevent scratching it. Much easier than tilting IMHO. Be careful not to snag the cover gasket on anything as you install. A little Permatex or whatever in the right places will do the job with some careful fiddling.

Thanks Larry!!

Actually, replaced my head gasket without tilting the lump. For what it’s worth, it worked out very well. You should have few issues without tilting the motor.
p.s. Great call on the ‘O’ ring in the photo, Tony

You can "sag" the engine by loosening the airbox, removing the upper rear engine bolt, the two large engine hangers by the plugs and then the two smaller ones, the exhaust bolts at the footrests with the engine on a jack. Then lower the jack slowly and you'll pickup a crucial 3/8" that makes the R&R of the valve cover a lot easier. I like to glue the valve cover in, pretty much a must for installation if you're doing this.

The cam cover came off pretty easily! I cleaned the valve cover and used a thin layer of Bostik adhesive in the valve cover grooves so the the new gasket would stick/bond to the cover. I left it for about 20 min, made sure the gasket was 100% inside the cover and then installed it. It went back without any issue. I then tightened the 8 bolts with grommets - making sure of the cross pattern till they were hand tight. I then used a torque wrench - set to the spec of 10 Nm and torqued the bolts. All went well and I made sure that the complete gasket was all OK afterwards. This morning I rode the CBX for about 5 km to check for any oil leaks - there were none - However a fair amount of "smoke" came from the new gasket and it looks if the gasket "grew" somewhat as it seems it is more visible from the outside than before...?? Is this OK??

Don't know anything specific regarding Bostik. However, it appears to be more of a 'construction' adhesive. As such, it may not be too high heat and/or petroleum compatible. Therefore, it may be swelling at engine temps and possibly have some ingredient cooking out of it at engine temps.

Thanks Larry - it is my take on this too!

I have used weather strip adhesive on the gasket ridge with good results.
The channel in the valve cover must be clean and dry. It's a little tedious
to apply but holds well, no swelling or smoking. I also apply a light coat
of grease to the head side surface so the next time the cover is removed,
The gasket/seal stays in place. If you remove the seal for replacement it
cleans up easily.

The cam chains can be adjusted without removing the cam cover.
(I cleared this with the author before stepping on his thread.)
The adjustment process is basically the same with the exception of
one item. I read about this in a magazine tech article many years ago
when the CBX and F bikes first came out.
A chain:
With the R side crank cover removed, loosen the domed adj. nut AND
the bolt directly above it. That is the mounting bolt for the tensioner
assembly. Often the tensioner sticks because the bolt, when tightened
at installation distorts the assembly enough to cause the sliding part to
stick or hang up. Rotate the crank clockwise slightly, then counter
clockwise about 20 degrees, then clockwise again and hold it. Don't release
clockwise pressure until you have tightened first the mounting bolt, then
the dome adj. nut.
It is difficult to see the mounting bolt but it can be located and loosened/
tightened by feel. It's the only bolt in that area just above the adj. nut.
B chain:
Use the same crank rotation process as the A chain but before tightening
(nipping up ) the locking bolt, hold the bolt with one wrench and back off
the locking nut a couple of turns with another wrench then tighten the bolt,
then the locking nut. Sometimes the Oring between the bolt and locking nut
will cause the lock nut to hang and turn with the bolt enough to lock the
bolt and nut down before the bolt locks the tensioner rod.
Pull the cam cover if you must to verify that the chains are tensioned or
just start the motor and listen for chain noise but this process has worked
every time for me and those that I've described it to.

Tensioning the chains frequently is one of the most important adjustments
you can do. If you can hear chain noise, you can bet damage to the tensioner
and guides is taking place. The chains should be adj. at least every oil change,
a good time to remember to do it, noise or not.

This is great! Will have to check the cam chain tension on my new-to-me 1980. Will definitely book mark this thread!

I read the text and I don't quite understand. One tightening nut is in front of the engine, and the other in the rear

Short question:
Do I need to tighten or loosen the adjustment nut when tightening the cam chain?