OK, Z1X
Although I'm still under the weather, I took a look at the flow chart at Block #9, where it asks you to check "between the two other wires". For CBX, that would be the BK/WHT wires to the rotor, as you said. Are we on the same page at this point?
I grabbed an alternator I had sitting around and tested it as well as the one on the bike. In BOTH cases, testing at the alternator plug means you're going through the brushes and the brush contact at the rings which is a carbon resistance.
If you measure DIRECTLY on the copper rings (stay out of the carbon grooves), you should measure around 4.0 ohms.
If you measure through the plug, you will see much higher ohms reading due to the carbon brush/copper ring resistance - could be as high as 90+ ohms or as low as 7 ohms. If you spin the clutch plate to turn the rotor, the resistance will jump all over the place but should never be lower than about 6-7 ohms.
You said you measured .002 ohms on your Fluke; lowest scale. I think your rotor is shorted out.
I also measured across the stator windings and spun the rotor as fast as I could by hand and also saw .04-.05 volts out of the windings (all 3). This is simply due to what is called 'residual magnetism' in the rotor metal. Even with NO voltage on the rotor coil, the metal will retain some small (very small) magnetism and it is enough to generate a small voltage (very small) in the stator coil.
By the way, if you do replace the rotor, I'd like to buy the old defective one from you. Let me know.
stators / rotors testing
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Jim-Jim
- ICOA Member
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- Location: San Diego, CA
- Location: San Diego, CA
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sinclairlaw2
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- Location: Springfield, Ill.
rotors/alternator chart
JIM-JIM and Z1X, I have also now referred to the ELECTREX chart. Following block D, measuirng the black and white wire, I am getting 6 Ohms. The chart directs me down to the next box that calls for connection of a spare wire(s) directly to battery + and -. to block connector. My readings on the multi-meter are way below their suggested 50 volts...(not even putiing out 12 volts)..SO, if the chart is correct, then I need to replace the stator. 
Sounds simple enough, but is the chart a reliable guide? Reason I question the chart is that according to the shop manual, the bench test of the stator , (out of the housing and off the bike) reads within specs of continuity between the 3 yellow wires. Does anyone have a good working stator that they want to sell 
Sounds simple enough, but is the chart a reliable guide? Reason I question the chart is that according to the shop manual, the bench test of the stator , (out of the housing and off the bike) reads within specs of continuity between the 3 yellow wires. Does anyone have a good working stator that they want to sell -
z1x
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Sinclairlaw2,
I'm going with the flow chart and have ordered a rebuilt rotor for mine, as both Jim-Jim and myself believe that my rotor is bad, because I can't get nowhere close to the Ohms that they are calling for, I getting .002 in the bike, off from the bike and out of the case so mine has to be shorted internally. I think the chart is good and I know that Jim-Jim is working on it to make one just for the CBX.
When I was running the engine on mine from 1500 rpm's to 5000 rpm's I only got a .5 volt change across the battery, so if what they are saying is true then my R/R should of been shutting down due to the short in the rotor, I feel good about where it has sent me. But I know where you coming from $100.00 here a $150.00 there soon you have replace the entire system. I just want to be sure, don't mind spending it if it fixes the problem, just want to have my X up and charging without buying half of somebodys company.
I'm going with the flow chart and have ordered a rebuilt rotor for mine, as both Jim-Jim and myself believe that my rotor is bad, because I can't get nowhere close to the Ohms that they are calling for, I getting .002 in the bike, off from the bike and out of the case so mine has to be shorted internally. I think the chart is good and I know that Jim-Jim is working on it to make one just for the CBX.
When I was running the engine on mine from 1500 rpm's to 5000 rpm's I only got a .5 volt change across the battery, so if what they are saying is true then my R/R should of been shutting down due to the short in the rotor, I feel good about where it has sent me. But I know where you coming from $100.00 here a $150.00 there soon you have replace the entire system. I just want to be sure, don't mind spending it if it fixes the problem, just want to have my X up and charging without buying half of somebodys company.
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z1x
- New Member & Happy To Be Here
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 7:58 pm
Sinclairlaw2,
I'm going with the flow chart and have ordered a rebuilt rotor for mine, as both Jim-Jim and myself believe that my rotor is bad, because I can't get nowhere close to the Ohms that they are calling for, I getting .002 in the bike, off from the bike and out of the case so mine has to be shorted internally. I think the chart is good and I know that Jim-Jim is working on it to make one just for the CBX.
When I was running the engine on mine from 1500 rpm's to 5000 rpm's I only got a .5 volt change across the battery, so if what they are saying is true then my R/R should of been shutting down due to the short in the rotor, I feel good about where it has sent me. But I know where you coming from $100.00 here a $150.00 there soon you have replace the entire system. I just want to be sure, don't mind spending it if it fixes the problem, just want to have my X up and charging without buying half of somebodys company.
When I measured my stator on the bike for shorts I was good and the same off of the bike and again out from the housing as well, so It looks to me as your rotor is OK and the R/R seems to be working as well. But I'll tell you don't forget to clean all of your connectors I had a few that were really bad corrosion and loose, not anymore all of my system is clean and tight thru out.
I'm going with the flow chart and have ordered a rebuilt rotor for mine, as both Jim-Jim and myself believe that my rotor is bad, because I can't get nowhere close to the Ohms that they are calling for, I getting .002 in the bike, off from the bike and out of the case so mine has to be shorted internally. I think the chart is good and I know that Jim-Jim is working on it to make one just for the CBX.
When I was running the engine on mine from 1500 rpm's to 5000 rpm's I only got a .5 volt change across the battery, so if what they are saying is true then my R/R should of been shutting down due to the short in the rotor, I feel good about where it has sent me. But I know where you coming from $100.00 here a $150.00 there soon you have replace the entire system. I just want to be sure, don't mind spending it if it fixes the problem, just want to have my X up and charging without buying half of somebodys company.
When I measured my stator on the bike for shorts I was good and the same off of the bike and again out from the housing as well, so It looks to me as your rotor is OK and the R/R seems to be working as well. But I'll tell you don't forget to clean all of your connectors I had a few that were really bad corrosion and loose, not anymore all of my system is clean and tight thru out.
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sinclairlaw2
- New Member & Happy To Be Here
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Springfield, Ill.
Re-furbished stator/rotor
When it rains it pours! Now I have my alternator problem solved with new (used) parts :) . During my search for parts I am now the proud owner of duplicate stators and rotors. I am offering ICOA members a shot at picking up a good deal on a like new re-furbished stator (never used) $200.00 and a good used rotor (within specs) $125.00. Please E mail me if you are interested: sinclairlaw2@juno.com thanks for all the help! 
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sinclairlaw2
- New Member & Happy To Be Here
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Springfield, Ill.
REWOUND STATOR FORSALE
FINALLY GOT MY cbx TO CHARGE, LAST AND FINAL STRAW WAS THE THRUST WASHER. COULD NEVER FIND ONE HOWEVER, I CHECKED OUT THE LOCAL ELECTRICAL DEPARTMENT OF MY MAJOR "BOX STORE" FOUND A 5 PAC OF WASHERS THAT ARE PERFECT IN SIZE. USED ONLY ONE OF 'EM. NOW ASIDE FROM ANY POSSIBLE HEAT TRANSFER PROBLEMS, I HOPE THIS WILL WORK. ANYWAY, I BOUGHT A BUNCH OF ADDITIONAL PARTS. CHECK OUT E BAY- 2429226558 FOR A REWOUND STATOR, NEVER USED. JUST WANT TO GET SOME OF MY MONEY BACK OUT OF IT. THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S HELP THIS PAST SUMMER. NOW AT SUMMER END, I CAN FINALLY GET A FEW MILES ON THE 'OLE CBX.