Oil Poll

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Thu May 08, 2003 4:16 pm

Honestly? I don't care for it! It leaves a bitter aftertaste. Not very satisfying. It goes flat right after you pour it and there always seems to be a slight sediment in the bottom of the glass....

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Sun Jun 01, 2003 7:46 pm

What the hell, might as well put them together...

JHSeltzer · Post by **JHSeltzer** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 11:35 pm

I use Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil.

Greybeard · Post by **Greybeard** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 3:46 pm

JH

I'm considering changing to Amsoil (next change). Best I can determine mines been on Honda oil for about 12-13K. I have no oil consumption at this time. any risk associated with this change?

BTW: a friend is becoming an Amsoil dealer, and he is the pickiest car nut on the planet.

sr71cbx · Post by **sr71cbx** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 3:59 pm

texascbx · Post by **texascbx** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 5:24 pm

Honda 20-50 Synthetic blend.Tried castrol synthetic bought at wallyworld 20-50,not motorcycle specific and my transmission became an automatic,too slick and probably not good for the cams.

reegeemon · Post by **reegeemon** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 3:30 pm

CASTROL SYNTEC 5/50, PERIOD.

George R. Garrison #0857 · Wed Oct 21, 2009 10:44 pm

Any body have any new preference for engine oil on the CBX's?

My CBX's have been sitting for years, are there any recommendations before starting them?

With the aircraft engines and prolonged storage, we used to pre-oil the engines. This was forcing oil thru the engine before starting it.
Has anyone ever done that and if so where was the pressure applied?

Later, George in Delaware

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:12 am

I would squirt some oil into the spark plug holes and then crank the engine with the run/off switch set to off for a while. That will pump oil through the system. If you want to go through the effort, I would pull the valve cover off and check if there is a puddle of oil in the cavities behind the pool plates in the cylinder head. But that may be difficult without tilting the engine.

George R. Garrison #0857 · Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:23 pm

EMS thanks for the recommendations.

I believe I'll be removing the valve cover to check inside, freshen up the finish on the cover and replace the gasket.

Do I need to do anything special to tilt the engine or remove the valve cover?

If anyone has a shop manual for sale for an '81 CBX, please contact me, I'm in the market to buy one.

The manual does not have to be pretty as long as it is readible.

Later, George in Delaware.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:49 am

George R. Garrison #0857 wrote:
Do I need to do anything special to tilt the engine or remove the valve cover?

.

Tilting the engine is a little more elaborate than it sounds. Exhaust removal, rear wheel loosening, fiddling with the airbox.
If you can avoid it, do so. I am not sure, if the valve cover will come off without tilting the engine. I have never tried it. There may not be enough clearance to the frame to lift the cover over the cam towers.

SteveG · Post by **SteveG** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:31 am

Yes it can be done without tilting the engine. May (will?) require copious amounts of foul language to coerce / finagle the cover back over the top of the rear oil line bolt without snagging the gasket, but it can be done.

I understand if you just loosen the back top engine brackets with the engine supported by a jack, you can lower the engine the 1-2 mm to let the cover go over the oil line bolt easier. Then you aren't messing with the "complete" engine tilt.

Haven't tried this yet, but will this winter when I check my valves.

Steve

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:40 am

I don't know if the late model differ from the early models, but I've had the valve cover off several early models without tilting the motor. Patience is rewarded.

I doubt you'll need a new gasket. They seem to last almost forever. The hard part is getting it seated properly.

I clean gasket/cover thoroughly, then use some sort of non-hardening gasket sealer/adhesive to secure the gasket to the cover. Just a dab of sealant in the corners is all you need. Put the cover on a flat surface and let the sealer "set" while you check valve clearances, etc. Now take your time replacing the cover so as not to dislodge said gasket. After you've got it in place, visually check to see that it's even all the way around.

It sounds a lot harder than it really is........

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:21 am

George,

you stated

If anyone has a shop manual for sale for an '81 CBX, please contact me, I'm in the market to buy one.

The best source for Honda shop manuals is: www.helminc.com
The site is a little convoluted but they show the shop manual for 1981-82 CBX in stock in paper form. The part number is 61MA200 which was the Honda part #. Helm has been the supplier of Honda manuals for a number of years as I have a catalogue from them dated June 1999.

They may also have the owners manual if you want to make your CBX complete.

George R. Garrison #0857 · Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:26 pm

Thanks guys for the info,

I'll contact the Helminc manual people.

I hope the valve cover gasket is in good shape.

Question: 1) Any body ever encounter a warped valve/cam cover?
2) If that happens, is it necessary to work it on a surface plate to true it?
3) Is this possibly why covers are hard to keep from leaking?
4) What's the prefered procedure to refurbish the outside surface of the valve cover?

Thanks for the help, George in Delaware

The International CBX Owners Association

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