The International CBX Owners Association

Don, let's not start comparing politicians, we run the risk of seriously depressing ourselves ...

Back to CBX, today I borrowed an ultrasonic cleaner from a friend; professional grade with a heater, but quite small at about 2.5 Lt. And a few hours later I had my first gigantic failure with it .
Some 'expert' suggested I either fish our hundreds of $ to get a specialised fluid to operate, OR, achieve 80%, using 8 parts tap water, 1 part methylated spirit and 1 part diluted ammonia and operate at about 70'C.

So all was going well until I poured a 23% dilution of ammonia into hot water at about 70'C. How stupid. I literally had to run out of the garage to be able to sustain breathing! The thing smelled so awful.

I know I can get a brew together which will achieve quite a lot at low cost, I am just not there yet.
Any suggestions chaps?

Best, Aris

This turned up a half-dozen interesting threads, one that just said to use Simple Green plus some surfactant eg dish detergent.

http://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+ultr ... =firefox-a

N.

Just be aware that Simple Green will erode aluminum. I spilled fome on a rag, laying on top of an aluminum tool box.

If you leave the parts in for a short time, you'll most likely be fine, but rinse promptly.

daves79x wrote:
I just buttoned up the lower end of the engine that had the cracked crankcase. Everything is finally ready to bolt back on.

Dave

Chance of a Pic Dave? This sounds like major work.

Aris

A little bit of experimenting with the ultrasonic cleaner and more benign fluids this time, has led to some decent cleaning of small parts.
But I cannot see much difference from using 'brake cleaner', which I am sure is not the case once fluids are optimised and my know-how soars.
This time, it was 10 parts tap water, 1 part methylated spirit, 1 part house detergent (Green is not available over here) and very little ammonia. If anything, the picture above makes the result look better than actually is. As you have probably guessed, these are sections of the two engine hangers.
Not sure yet how, this undoubtedly useful piece of apparatus, will earn its keep in my shop. But it's early days.
Cheers, Aris

For these kind of jobs, a simple parts washer will probably do excellent.
You will find the ultrasonic cleaner handy for parts that have difficult-to-access areas, holes and orifices that need cleaning.

I'm guessing Aris probably understands that . . . . but is looking for some sort of 'test' so you could know that when you're cleaning those difficult to access holes and orifices they will actually get clean, since you can't easily see them to tell

Don

Aris:

"Chance of a Pic Dave? This sounds like major work."

The bottom end is assembled and pistons hung. Mike's base gasket arrived today, so the cylinder can go on. All the intake valves have been reinstalled - looked good after lapping. Am waiting for valve seals to install the exhaust valves (had only a partial set here). Polished the clutch cover last night (3-plus hours), came out great. All the engine parts were painted separately so upon re-assembly it looks factory (no painted bolt heads or gasket edges). Should have it totally together early next week - finally!

I'll post some pics of the finished engine and the cracked case on the old one. The bike ought to be running in a couple of weeks.

Dave

AT LONG LAST: A REAL BREAKTHROUGH

OK chaps, we all know by now my problem was glass.
But despite my extensive work I could not find / prove where exactly it was hiding in the first place, to do so much (localised) damage.
Well, the hunt is over and for the first time in the last few months I am 100% confident I can put my engine back together without worrying about a recurrence.

The @£$%^& glass beads were hiding inside the top holes (and presumably their connected little galleys) of the crank covers, which as I have now found out to my peril, are not blind.
THEY ARE CONNECTED WITH THE CRANK OIL WAYS. The existence of an 'o' ring there, should ring a bell about it but I missed it ...

Below is the RHS top crank cap hole (No 6 piston side, careful, not talking about the offending no 1 yet) And look what I got out of it ... and this is after intense cleaning in the degreaser. In fact and after using compressed air, this hole is still 99% blocked and I plan to look at it more carefully tomorrow to find out 'with what'.
But take a look at the crappy photo below of the crankcase oil way next to it; you can clearly see a piece of glass embedded on to a small 'crack' (or is it a small galley) in it - Amazing. BTW the LHS hole bore was clean-ish but with no glass to be found near it.

My analysis is not yet complete. But I think I can preliminarily say the following:
1. I made the fatal mistake of assuming these holes were blind, external, and therefore not critical during cleaning. Who knows what I was thinking . I am sure I cleaned them, but had no reason to insist further for the above reason.
2. The LHS (infamous cylinder no 1 side) hole was full of the glass after my rebuilt, and this was quickly sucked up by the crank by means of the oil flow, and we all know what happened then.
3. The RHS was as bad, but for some reason 99% blocked by who knows what, WHICH AS A RESULT SAVED THAT SIDE!!!

I feel very relieved to have at last a viable proof of exactly what went wrong.

Dave, PLEASE, can you explain to me why these are not blind. I am sure there is a good reason.

Best, Aris

Aris:
I can't say why so many of the holes intersect one another. I found that 2 of the main cap bolt holes intersect with the oil pathway to the main bearings. I sort of knew this because there are always 2 long crank bolts that have the threads bathed in oil when I remove them. I think the shorter end crank bolts are the same. But still a hiding place. I did pay particular attention to those crank cap top holes so be sure that I could see into them clearly and blow air through as well. Can't double-check them now as I'm together, but I'm confident I got them clean. I'm sure you now will as well.

I'm sure you are now breathing much easier than before. I know the nagging feeling of not being SURE. Proceed with the same care you've been taking and you'll be fine.

Dave

Aris:
One other thought: I'm actually beginning to think that very fine blasting sand would be preferable to those relatively large glass chunks. I think a small amount of fine sand, while certainly not desirable, would do far less damage than the equlivalent amount of glass. Just a thought after seeing your ordeal.

Dave

Fantastic news Aris.

N.

daves79x wrote:Aris:
One other thought: I'm actually beginning to think that very fine blasting sand would be preferable to those relatively large glass chunks. I think a small amount of fine sand, while certainly not desirable, would do far less damage than the equlivalent amount of glass. Just a thought after seeing your ordeal.

Dave

Dave

Not sure .
Personally I would never - ever go near any 'grit' type blasting process again, no matter how fine the media.
I have spent too much time with macro lenses, to know there are enough places for the residue to hyde and do damage, no matter how fine.
There are few less aggressive ways to clean cases which would leave no residue at all; E.g. ultrasonic, & chemical.
I am also told there is a good blasting process which uses dry ice - hence no residue at all - but do not know enough about it.

My worth

Best, Aris

NilsMenten wrote:Fantastic news Aris.

N.

Nils you are
I know, this breakthrough can be attributed in part at least, to the excellent new emoticons !
My for a viable answer as to WHY this happened seems to have come to a end.
Had I not been able to identify the real reason , re-rebuilding my engine would be
things continue the same way.

All, have a splendid weekend
Aris

P.S. Today is Goldwing day, and plan to visit some of my favourite seaside destinations in the Peloponnese.
A very dry 36'C and a light breeze - Bliss!

daves79x wrote:Aris:
I can't say why so many of the holes intersect one another. I found that 2 of the main cap bolt holes intersect with the oil pathway to the main bearings. I sort of knew this because there are always 2 long crank bolts that have the threads bathed in oil when I remove them. I think the shorter end crank bolts are the same. But still a hiding place.
Dave

Dave
Thanks. I will try to find out and post; believe it is vitally important to pass on this information. Any type of dirt sitting there is just next to your (freshly rebuilt) camshafts.
I still insist during my previous rebuild, my cases were spotless everywhere I looked, and I was looking very hard.
But we all now know I was clearly not looking cleverly enough.
I do hope you have all the luck with your engine
Best, Aris