The International CBX Owners Association

Larry Zimmer wrote:Steve,

You may need to add a preload sleeve to the forks with those springs. No problem. Use some PVC pipe and a couple large appropriate size flat washers. Use something to cut the pvc square. Have fun. You'll enjoy.

Thanks Larry!
Even though this is the rear shock thread, the fork spring discussion is relevant to the "Handling" category we are in. Anyway, I got the Progressive fork springs for the '82 (Progressive #11-1112) and they come with the preload sleeves and washers. Also comes with a discussion on fork oil level, as well as if the tighter wind goes up or down (doesn't matter).

It will definitely be a good day when I get it out on the road with new shock, new springs and fork oil, and freshly greased bushings!

Steve

I was looking into getting Hagons for my '82 but at JCmotors price of progressive, I'll just get them.
They are $317.41 now - 10% new customer discount.

And 465-1115 progressive shock is not available with remote for our CBX!
I called them up and it has to do with cbx not having enough space for it.
Can't wait for my shock to arrive and install it

You will find most of the work is removing all the old. New shock install very straight-forward. You might want to pull all the links apart, though, to inspect their condition, including the seals; and, at minimum, grease all of them. Unfortunately, to do that will require dropping the pipes. Don't have to remove them; but significantly loosen them to get some of the link bolts out.

One other note, regarding the air pressure light: either pull the bulb; or, ground the connector. Otherwise, it will be lit constantly. Happy riding!

Larry,

I have 6-1 so I'll be good there but it looks like center stand is in the way of the linkage, does it need to be removed as well?

Centerstand should be no issue, Sasha. The only problem with stock exhaust is removing the forward bolts from the dog-bone links. They are located immediately behind the exhaust. Not knowing the routing of your 6-1, this may not affect it. Good! After you remove everything, you can check the swingarm for any lateral play. Likely will be OK. I believe those bearings are quite robust. It's just the bushings in the links that tend to wear. Not the "end-of-the-world" if they have a little wear in them because they don't contribute to lateral stiffness. However, they do affect vertical wheel 'bounce'. So, yes, they do have some affect on overall ride quality and handling.

I know that It shouldn't be too difficult, probably much easier than adjusting the shock.
Are parts to rebuild swing arm and shock linkage still available?
Thanks much Larry! I'll let you know how it goes.

Sasha

From what Mike (EMS) and I have seen, they are available at CMSNL out of Netherlands. A bit pricey. But, if you need them, you need them. They are becoming extinct rather quickly. The only part I have not found, for 2 years now, is the bushing in the swingarm. If you need to do anything there, note the orientation of the bushing(s) BEFORE removing from the swingarm. (They push out.) Then, reinstall at 90deg rotation. They tend to wear a bit oval. The only other option, at the moment, would be to find someone to cut you some from bronze(Oilite) or oil-filled resin. (The resin thing probably not. You don't want to know what that might cost!)

So I took old shock out and there is no play at all in the swing arm. There is however little bit of play in the rods.
Bike has 25000 miles, should I remove the swing arm and clean and re grease bearings?
I do have one problem and that is that I cannot get the shocks bottom bolt out.
It is not moving at all. I tried with long beaker bar but the only thing that moves is the linkage around the shock and it feels as if there is a spring in there.
Bolt probably got seized in there, should I apply heat? On the bolt or the shock?

Thank you

Sasha,
Looking at your photos, it appears that the shock bolt has moved some. Yes? If so, it suggests to me that the threads on the end of the bolt that were projecting beyond the 'nut', are quite rusted; and, therefore, when that part of the bolt got to the nut, would not go through. If that is so, I would retighten the bolt, soak it with PB Blaster (or ?) try a wire brush, etc. to clean the threads and then try again. Given that the link does rotate on the shock, the bolt is not frozen inside the shock. If the above doesn't work, then, yes, my next move would be heat on the 'nut'.

Perhaps someone out there might have a better idea. Hopefully, something a bit 'easier'!

Regarding the swingarm pivot/bearings, my thought is to just leave it, given there is no play. Wait to see what Dave and a few others with much greater experience on that might have to offer. The play in the rods suggest that those bushings do have some wear, though.

The nut is off, it's just that the bolt would not move at all. I tried hitting it with hummer, turning it but no luck.
I did spray a lot of wd40 last night and I'll see how it goes today.
Thanks

Sacha, WD40 does not have a lot of penetrating quality.
I have had better luck with PB Blaster.

Thank you, I'll try that today if i need to

You might, since you are this far, at least inspect the swingarm bearings to see if they need service, knowing that replacement bearings are really not available. A clean-up and re-lube is about all you can do, but worthwhile and you'll at least know their condition. I've seen some shot at 25K and others in fine shape at 75K. All has to do whether water got into them or not.

Dave

Dave,
Any recommendations on shocks bottom bolt removal?
Thanks