Oh, yeah, for everybody that may be following this topic (we're discussing a COMMON problem here), I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you do the following:
Go to your local Home Depot and go to the electrical section. Buy a small box of spade connections, both male and female. To be sure you have the right size, check the WIDTH of the male spade; it should be 1/4" wide. This is the size that will fit INSIDE the female alternator plug. The box should say 'for wire size 14-16'. Pick up about 1-2' of #14 SOLID wire (color doesn't matter). They may give you some flack about such a small length but you're the customer and that's all you need. If you don't have a 'crimping' tool, buy one (you can use pliers/cutters but it's chancy); they're cheap.
When you get home, strip the insulation off of the solid wire. Cut about a dozen (12) 1 to 1-1/2" pieces of bare copper wire. Put a piece of wire into a spade and crimp it tight!!! Do 6 males and 6 females.
Now you have a really good connection into the plugs that come from the alternator and RR. I found that trying to poke around with pointed probes of the meter just didn't cut it and I needed 4 hands to hold it all together. With these copper 'pigtails', you have a GOOD CONNECTION into the plug and a nice place to clip you meter leads to.
I know, I know, what a hassle but, trust me, it will pay off in the long run. You'll have these little test leads to check anytime you have a problem and can run down trouble fast. Further, you will be able to determine how tight the connectors INSIDE the plug are (the females sometimes loose their 'grip' - no jokes here, please). If the male pushes into a 'tight' fit, the connection is good. Using the female spades on the male RR pins is also much more easy than trying to fiddle around with just the meter leads. Just be careful with the female spades so they don't touch each other.
Another note while I'm typing away.
The regulator monitors the 'charging voltage' on the 'BK' (Black) wire, NOT the R/W lead going up to the start relay (battery). This BK lead comes from the main ignition switch on the front dash. So if you have a bad switch base or bad connection way up there, the regulator could see a 'flickering' voltage and kind of go crazy - anything from overcharging to shutting down. So check those connections on the ignition switch and the contacts inside.
Second note:
If you look at the wiring diagram closely, you'll see that the output of the alternator (R/W lead) goes to the downside of the 30A fuse. That means that, if your alternator runs away, there is no fuse protection to the wiring harness, only to the battery. Interesting, no?
More later as I discover.
That is INCORRECT!!!! 
An 'open' winding will show INFINITE resistance (there is NO path between the meter leads, whether analog [needle] or digital [LCD screen]). Unless you have an extremely expensive analog meter, one that goes down to a very small resistance scale, you should probably not use an analog to measure alternator windings - they're just too inaccurate! I would recommend that you stick to digital but be sure they have a very low resistance scale. Even then, the cheapies can lead you astray. If you have a digital that has only one resistance setting (like some Flukes), that's called 'auto-ranging' and is found, usually, in the better meters. By the way, every analog meter I have ever seen has the needle swinging from left to right, with 'infinity' at the left. If the needle moved to show an 'open', then it would constantly be moved to the right when there were no leads attached - a situation that would run the internal battery down. I'm taking the time here because a lot of us don't know the 'inners & outers' of electricity and I hope to help some understand what they are measuring. 
I do think if someone scrolls through all these postings, they will have a good idea of what to look for when measuring the alternator windings. 
:) 
Good luck and let us know.
While shaving this morning, another thought occurred to me. Nowhere along this path has anyone mentioned the idea that maybe the alternator may be slipping and not getting up to speed with the engine. Have you gone through the spring measurements and plate surfaces? Look at other posts in the Tech about the spring free length and plate thickness needed. Is the thrust washer there? As I understand it, if it slips, there should be a lot of noise but I guess it could slip without noise. Anyway, just an additional thought.
they don't provide enough voltage to make a diode conduct when measured in the resistance scales!! That's why they provide a special little 'diode' measuring symbol position. In that position, the meter supplies enough voltage to make a diode conduct and shows 'voltage' measurements on the scale - not resistances. This occurs ONLY on the 'diode' position. So, all of us not used to this (me) have to change our thinking and learn the new ways to read a diode. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better enough to sit down with a couple of GOOD reg/rect's and check them out to see how my 'Fluke' and a couple of 'cheap' digitals read the diodes. I'll get back to you on that.