The International CBX Owners Association

There are a few torque specs we need, holding the rotor to the shaft, and the "B" plate to the shaft once it is installed in the housing.
31 lb/ft for the rotor on the tapered shaft, does need the vise, carefully clamped on the rotor.

These nice new bearings are chilling out in our drink fridge while we fuss with the rest of it.
This goes very quickly, like, 10 seconds with the torch, and don't overdo it either. Grab the chilly bearing and...

*plop*, it literally drops straight in.

Repeat with the base, 15 or so seconds with the MAP gas torch and...
*plop*, that's in too.
Wee drop of thread locker on the threads of that bearing retainer...

Bearing and retainer installed.

Flip it over, grab the seal. Springs side of the seal should be facing toward us here, this is the "wet" side of the alternator.
This will just press in with your thumbs, easy.

We're always a little cautious putting shafts through seals - and just a drop or two of the 3-In-One makes this easier.

That shaft is a snug fit through that bearing from the dry side, wiggle it carefully through the seal, good to go.

Install the new o-ring. No, not this old one .

Flip it back over, now we're in the home stretch. This "B" plate needs to nest in through the seal to make solid contact with the bearing, just like a wheel spacer. Give it a drop of oil and carefully install it through the seal.

We can just get the vice onto the rotor again to install this washer and nut, 29 lb/ft with the torque wrench, and done.

Onto the brush replacement, very straightforward.

Faithful Rick's to the rescue, for a set of new brushes.

Done.

Install the stator leading with that grommet that we don't want to change, carefully install that first and let the stator follow it in, line up the brush holder with its location.
Remembering to install the two spring washers beneath these 6mm bolt heads.

And done. New paper gasket seals these halves. Leave this cover with the gasket in place and introduce the lower section to it, line everything up and one or two little bumps with the heel of your hand will get the shaft seated in the cap bearing and close it up. Double-check that the gasket alignment is still good and install the three cover screws to seal this up.

Install the new square-section oring - and note that the tall dimension goes up as shown. It won't really fit the other way, but folks try. Take a look all the way around, made certain it lays in there without binding up.

Here's our "A" drive plate assembly, left to right: Special centering washer, alternator spring (narrower end up), 1.5mm shim (NOT STOCK - WE ADDED THIS), OEM steel washer, OEM fiber washer, "A" plate.

Honda would like us to lubricate the two plates with a moly grease before reassembly. OK!

Good to go.

Now we're keeping everything clean and spiffy while we wait to install it in the bike tomorrow. Job done!

April 2025.

As of this reposting of this tutorial from Facebook, our friends at https://www.TheSupersportShed.com are carrying pretty much ALL of the parts needed for the alternator's refurbishment, including nice-fitting black gaskets, springs, grommets, and a slightly different clutch solution that uses clutch friction material bonded to an "A" drive plate core. Highly recommended, and while you're t here, definitely browse all of the formerly unobtanium parts they have sourced.

Tom Tokarz of https://www.truedisk.net is the guy that regrinds our clutch plates so beautifully in the USA

For a tutorial on how to change the sockets, spades, connectors, sheath, and that pesky grommet, visit this topic: viewtopic.php?t=12928

The tutorial on the ignition switch base service is found here: viewtopic.php?p=108577#p108577