Tilting engine

[Bernd]

Any news?

Bernd

[jerry smith]

Got sidetracked. Just renewed my membership and gave an update there. After I cleaned the carbs and reasembled them I bench tested them for leaks(LOTS! ) Once I replaced the float needles they were fine . Bench synced them and reinstalled on new carb boots.Felt pretty good until I realized the inside carb clamps were still on the workbench. Carbs off again. Back together and bolted everything up but when I tried the throttle it was stuck. The end of the cable between the carbs had popped halfway out of socket. When I tried to push it in with a long screwdriver it popped right out. Drank 2 beer and went inside and watched TV. The next day went out checked the clock. Tilted the engine, removed the carbs,flipped them over and reinstalled the cables then the carbs,air cleaner ,cables, tightened chain in 4 hours and 5 minutes. I hooked up the gas tank and left the gas on while I hooked up the battery. I put the choke on, turned on the key and when I hit the starter it fired right up and has been running well all summer. Great bike.
Jerry

[EMS]

As it is a job that is not done every year, I tilt the engine when adjusting the valves. Mainly because I don't like to bust my knuckles trying to get the valve cover off and accessing the intake valves on 3 and 4.
I would like to hear the experiences of those who DO NOT tilt the engine for that service (following the service manual) and what their issues are.

[wyly]

As it is a job that is not done every year, I tilt the engine when adjusting the valves. Mainly because I don't like to bust my knuckles trying to get the valve cover off and accessing the intake valves on 3 and 4.
I would like to hear the experiences of those who DO NOT tilt the engine for that service (following the service manual) and what their issues are.

once you get past the initial reluctance to tilt the engine it's much easier to service the top end...understandably for new cbx owners it's an intimidating procedure it was for me too, after two or three tilts it's not a big deal anymore, however I'll still avoid it as much as possible because it does take time.

[jerry smith]

Thanks guys. I did it 4 times in 3 days. I have a '75 and a '78 Kawasaki Z1 so it was a new experience. If I remember right 13 bolts and 4 engine brackets,loosen rear wheel etc. What could go wrong? Not so bad once you get the routine. On the Kawasakis I have to remove the belly pan,cut the safety wire on the 8 header nuts(long needlenose pliers due to oil cooler) and disconnect the headers from the exhaust can just to change the oil. I'm retired so I've got no life (rumour) and I like working on my bikes.
The clutch noise bothers me so I'm going to take a look tomorrow.The manual isn't as clear as I'd like so you'll probably be hearing from me shortly. Went for a ride today with a buddy, 120km. Nice day,nice ride.
Jerry

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

I had the same thing happen with the throttle cables once.
Obviously self-induced but still very annoying.

I noticed in the other thread you mentioned $800.00 insurance.
I am paying $400.00 through the Dalton-Timmis vintage program. There is a limited mileage per year but in the 8 years i have been with them they have never asked for an odometer reading.

[jerry smith]

Yah. I checked with them first but it sounded like I was only covered for going to and from vintage shows etc.My house and truck insurance with TD bank wouldn't insure it for the appraised value ($11,300) but the girl I talked to at TD rode and told me to try a broker-forget who- and he set me up with Wanasea and they insured it for the appraised value. It's a daily rider so I didn't want to take a chance.
Jerry

[wyly]

I had the same thing happen with the throttle cables once.
Obviously self-induced but still very annoying.

I noticed in the other thread you mentioned $800.00 insurance.
I am paying $400.00 through the Dalton-Timmis vintage program. There is a limited mileage per year but in the 8 years i have been with them they have never asked for an odometer reading.

my Z was appraised at $15K and my insurance was lowered this month from $300 to $250 and they don't care how many miles I put on.

[EMS]

Thanks a lot for the replies. What I was after was feedback from those who doing the valve adjustment. Do you tilt the engine or not?
I would think that anybody who is a newbie and intimidated of tilting the engine would not do their own valve adjustment anyway.

The service manual describes the valve adjustment procedure without tilting the engine.
I have found it extremely difficult, almost impossible to get the valve cover off without tilting the motor. Then accessing No3 and No4 inlet valves for checking and shim change is a pita.

So, what do you guys do or prefer to do?

[sixinoz]

As a newbie I have just done a valve check without tilting the engine. Front hangers removed, tacho cable and drive removed, spark plugs tucked up into frame. Once the tank was removed I put a length of cloth on the frame above the cam cover to stop the cover paint being damaged. A bit of jiggling and the cover comes off quite easily.
Checked valves per Honda manual method - easy. All intakes were ok and only 2 exhausts needed re shim.
Last time I had the cover off I used the elastic band method to hold the gasket in place and did the same this time. Very easy to do and no leaks so far.
So as a newbie I would say that checking valves without tilting the engine is pretty quick and easy(not so quick if you have a lot of reshimming to do) but there is much better access with it tilted.

[jerry smith]

That was going to be my next queation too. Been raining here for 2 days so I did the alternator clutch plate resurfacing. No bad sounds on start up,but I'll take it for a ride if the rain stops .
Jerry

[cross]

I've done mine twice and both times i tilted the engine completely. It's much easier that way.
Now my triumph triple is the same way

Sasha

[herdygerdy]

Late to the party as I just saw EMS question re "to tilt or not to tilt" when doing a valve clearance check.

A couple of tips to help those in the 'not to tilt' camp.

1. Loosen all the engine hanger bolts, including the top and bottom rear engine bolts. Or if really keen, remove the two large triangular plates near 1 & 6 spark plugs and the two small triangular plates behind the cylinder head. Support the engine on a jack with a block of timber under the sump and loosen the two rear bolts and also the two exhaust mounting plates. Lowering the jack allows the engine to swing down a few mm and rest on the bolts, giving you a few extra precious mm of clearance between the rocker cover and the frame.

2. Remove the two the rear coil mounting bracket bolts and loosen the front one near the steering head. This allows the coils to be lifted up out of the way giving a bit more clearance.

But for me, if time isn't an issue, I'm a bit of a "tilter" meself. I have reached the age when I 'don't do struggle' if I can avoid it. YMMV

[desertrefugee]

Late to the party as I just saw EMS question re "to tilt or not to tilt" when doing a valve clearance check.

A couple of tips to help those in the 'not to tilt' camp.

1. Loosen all the engine hanger bolts, including the top and bottom rear engine bolts. Or if really keen, remove the two large triangular plates near 1 & 6 spark plugs and the two small triangular plates behind the cylinder head. Support the engine on a jack with a block of timber under the sump and loosen the two rear bolts and also the two exhaust mounting plates. Lowering the jack allows the engine to swing down a few mm and rest on the bolts, giving you a few extra precious mm of clearance between the rocker cover and the frame.

2. Remove the two the rear coil mounting bracket bolts and loosen the front one near the steering head. This allows the coils to be lifted up out of the way giving a bit more clearance.

But for me, if time isn't an issue, I'm a bit of a "tilter" meself. I have reached the age when I 'don't do struggle' if I can avoid it. YMMV

I'm sure those couple of mm would allow the cover to come off easier, but heck, if you go that far, all that's lacking to tilt is jack placement.

[jerry smith]

I just finished the shimming- 5 valves needed it, and retilted yesterday. I've tilted the motor 5 times in the past year and it's not so bad. The access is so much easier. I found raising it slowly and checking all around to make sure everything is lining up is important. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Jerry