My CBX1000C Restore Project

[heli_madken]

Hope everyone had a good Christmas.

Some more progress on my bike -

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Rear tyre fitted and rear wheal assembled, footrest hangers cleaned and polished, swingarm and shock in place for final fitting and wheel fitted plus chain guard cleaned and polished.

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Rear caliper has to rebuilt and painted as yet.

Wondering where to go from here. Is there a definitive sequence for replacing a CBX engine? I have figured that I will need to fit the wiring loom, coils and oil lines before I do the initial fit of the engine at the rear. Is there anything else?

[bikeymikey748]

Loving the red paint on the arm. Looking good.

[Syscrush]

Somehow I never noticed that the Pro-Link bikes have a metal chain guard. I don't suppose it bolts on to the early model bikes, does it?

[heli_madken]

Somehow I never noticed that the Pro-Link bikes have a metal chain guard. I don't suppose it bolts on to the early model bikes, does it?

I am not to sure but to me it extends way too far past the line of the axle, almost like it came off another bike with a longer swing arm

[NobleHops]

Somehow I never noticed that the Pro-Link bikes have a metal chain guard. I don't suppose it bolts on to the early model bikes, does it?

Does NOT bolt up.

[NobleHops]

Hope everyone had a good Christmas.

Some more progress on my bike -

<snip>

Wondering where to go from here. Is there a definitive sequence for replacing a CBX engine? I have figured that I will need to fit the wiring loom, coils and oil lines before I do the initial fit of the engine at the rear. Is there anything else?

You definitely want to install the air filter chamber, igniters, and wiring harness, electrics, and the rear master cylinder is best done at the same time as the footrest plates. Coils can wait. Jack the engine up enough to get the rear lower bolt installed and then lower it to a comfortable angle for installing the coils, oil lines/cooler, insulators, carbs (choke and throttle cables installed prior to installation) air box plenum. Then raise it up, mate the air box and plenum, wiring, etc, Follow the FSM, there is an entire section on tilting the engine. Find that here if you didn’t already: www.cbxclub.com/manuals

N.

[NobleHops]

Looking at your photos, you’re gonna need to back up a skosh and get the rear brake spindle and master cylinder installed, which means removing the swingarm pivot enough to pull that right footrest plate away to give you clearance. This will make sense when you do it, but it wont make sense that you had to do it .

Did you disassemble, clean and grease the entire swingarm linkage? Now is the time.

N.

[NobleHops]

P.S. Terry Schmitt has the footrest rubbers that you’re going to want when you get close to the finish line and everything else looks perfect.

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Helpfully,

N.

[heli_madken]

Thanks everyone for all the great help much appreciated.

Looking at your photos, you’re gonna need to back up a skosh and get the rear brake spindle and master cylinder installed, which means removing the swingarm pivot enough to pull that right footrest plate away to give you clearance. This will make sense when you do it, but it wont make sense that you had to do it .

Did you disassemble, clean and grease the entire swingarm linkage? Now is the time.

N.

All the bushes and collars for the swingarm where absolute toast and had worn through leaving a score mark in the middle, they where absolutely dry with no sign to me that they had ever had grease on them even from the factory. So I had to replace them all and of course they where all fully greased. Main swingarm bearings did feel ok to me so I have left them alone.

Havent torqued the pivot up yet as so I can move it out as you say. Its the sort of thing I was asking about as I know in the past on other builds I have ended up having to take things apart again, sometimes even for a second time

Footpeg rubbers are definitely on my shopping list current fronts are completely worn

[heli_madken]

Hi Everyone,

Making steady progress mostly working on brakes and getting the major part of the electrics in place -

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Front and rear brakes have been rebuilt with new seals, rubber boots etc and painted/baked. I only had to replace two pistons on the front right caliper which where a little corroded -

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Battery box fitted and some of the electrical components, solenoid, winker relay etc.

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Clocks are back in place together with switch gear (temporarily on left side). The tacho didnt work when I fired the engine up originally. I stripped the clocks down for cleaning and a look and unlike earlier clocks which can be persuaded to come apart I couldn't readily see any way of doing these. I take it they can be serviced? -

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Main wiring loom is back on, I love the use of micro connectors which makes life so much easier compared to multiple bullet connectors on earlier bikes. The loom covering was damaged in a few places so I have recovered with loom tape. I do love the connection box of the Pro-Link bikes, so neat -

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The manual has some great drawings of how cables and wires are routed but I must say one of Noblehops photos of the bike he has just sold was an immense help, thank you

Next up is to bleed the brakes, a job which I hate doing, and to sort out the oil cooler and oil lines. Then its a toss up between getting the motor back in or start work on the carbs.

[NobleHops]

I have several tear-down galleries that a lot of folks use for reference, very glad you found one useful.

[Syscrush]

Looking great! BTW - EBC sells a HH pad for those calipers, and in my experience they're definitely a worthwhile upgrade from OEM. They do have a sharper initial bite, which not everybody will like on a dive-prone damping rod front end like the CBX's, but for me it was a very worthy tradeoff to get 2-finger braking in most cases.

[heli_madken]

Thanks Phil. I bought EBC FA Series Organic pads for the front and the sintered HH pads for the rear as that is all that seams to be available over here, hopefully they will be an improvement over the stock pads. I havent seen HH fronts here are they available in the US?

[Syscrush]

Thanks Phil. I bought EBC FA Series Organic pads for the front and the sintered HH pads for the rear as that is all that seams to be available over here, hopefully they will be an improvement over the stock pads. I havent seen HH fronts here are they available in the US?

My impression was that the ProLink bikes could take the same pads as the CB1100F and other DOHC4 Hondas. I had CB1100F calipers and rotors on my bike when I bought it in '13, and was able to get HH pads then. I can't say for sure if they're still available or if the DOHC4 pads would fit the ProLink calipers - maybe someone else here knows more.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Thanks Phil. I bought EBC FA Series Organic pads for the front and the sintered HH pads for the rear as that is all that seams to be available over here, hopefully they will be an improvement over the stock pads. I havent seen HH fronts here are they available in the US?

My impression was that the ProLink bikes could take the same pads as the CB1100F and other DOHC4 Hondas. I had CB1100F calipers and rotors on my bike when I bought it in '13, and was able to get HH pads then. I can't say for sure if they're still available or if the DOHC4 pads would fit the ProLink calipers - maybe someone else here knows more.

You can get that information from EBC’s website, look through the product catalog, it has all the applications and dimensions for any particular pad they sell, it gives you what you need to cross reference any pad to all its applications. Scroll down to Honda, CBX and go from there, you’ll figure it out.

I don’t have the link handy but I have posted it here on the forum several times.