Camshaft Holder

[tazz]

Hi Guys help me here I'm going to be doing a Valve job for the first time. The dealer wants 1,000 dollars to do a valve job No thank you. Ok I have Mike Nixon book lots of help on this book. My question is I have one hole thread stripped the center one in front next to the cam chain by cycle #4. I was going to remove the can chain holder only to repair the the valve cover hole with Heli-Coil has any off you done this job before any think I should watch for so the there be NO problem doing this job. Also I'm going to look again went I remove the valve cover but I think the oil pool plates are NOT in there do you need then if so where can i get some cause I can't find any on Ebay or Amazon Honda do not make then any more.

[tevan]

Pm sent

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

The shop wanted $1000.00 to adjust the valves or was it going to be a rebuild?

A bit of info on a cam cap repair.
Helicoil worked fine for me, others recommend a Timesert.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=10784

[Larry Zimmer]

I assume you are talking about the threaded hole in the top of the top of the cam holder cap. If so, remove the cap; and, heli-coil/time-sert it. Much better than doing it in-place. I pefer time-sert. However, heli-coil good for this one. (When replacing the cap, go for the lower end of the torque spec for the cam cap bolts -- 9 to10 ft/lbs. If the head casting has any porosity near those threads, te head threads can be pulled/stripped. I know.)

Side-bar: When doing any insert work in-place, use a heavy grease on the drill bit and the tap. Metal filings will stick to the grease. Makes for a much cleaner operation.

[tazz]

I assume you are talking about the threaded hole in the top of the top of the cam holder cap. If so, remove the cap; and, heli-coil/time-sert it. Much better than doing it in-place. I pefer time-sert. However, heli-coil good for this one. (When replacing the cap, go for the lower end of the torque spec for the cam cap bolts -- 9 to10 ft/lbs. If the head casting has any porosity near those threads, te head threads can be pulled/stripped. I know.)

Side-bar: When doing any insert work in-place, use a heavy grease on the drill bit and the tap. Metal filings will stick to the grease. Makes for a much cleaner operation.

Thank Larry what can you tell me about the oil pool plates if they are not there do you need then and if so do you know were i can get any and do any of you know the bolt size on the valve cover bolt so i can get the heli-coil kit

[tevan]

I have some if you pm me.. I believe they are in there for a reason and that being to pool the oil. I would not put together without them being in there. That is just me I guess.

[wyly]

a $1000 is probably corrrect in many places depending shop rates of $120-150 per hour are not unusual and it'll take them the entire day if they're familiar with the cbx, so 8hrs x $$$=$$$$
I was told by a local Ducati dealer a valve service would cost about $1,500...

[tazz]

I think the bolt size is 6 mm am I rigth

[Larry Zimmer]

Yes, 6mm. Off-hand, I would try Louis Mintrone at usedcbxparts for the oil pool plates.

[tazz]

Thank Larry I forgot about him I will give him a call

[tazz]

Hi guys I like to ask does the have done this job for the first TIME the VALVE job did it take you guys a long time an yes I know for first timer we are going to be going slow so we make NO mistakes. I also have Mike Nixon book it help a lot great book for the valve job. Were I get lost at is the Cam chain part in Mike book and herygerdy information page. The shop manual book seem to be easy to do the cam-chain. Which way is best to do the cam-chain maybe one of you guys can break it down with pictures to do this job. Mike Nixon pic. on the cam-chain are not the clear.

[herdygerdy]

Hi Tazz,

I'll be pulling my cam cover off on the weekend so I hope to be able to have some pics that may help to explain it all. If you take your 17mm spanner on the RH end of the crankshaft and GENTLY rock the crank a few degrees back and forth while watching what the long A cam chain does, you will see the slack transferring from the front run to the back as you rock the crank back and forth.

A second pair of hands would help to do the rocking, while you undo the chromed dome nut underneath the carbs at the back of the cylinders. Then while your helper hold forward rotational pressure on the crank (this means the crank is pulling down on the front run of the cam chain and holding it tight, which transfers all the slack to the back run of the cam chain.) Then undo the nut, push down on the top of the rear cam chain tensioner and it should be able to slide down a little and take up all the slack.

Keep at it, take your time and you will be fine.

Cheers...Tony

[daves79x]

Mike's way of adjusting the cam chains IS the only to do it. If your bike was here in my garage, and with a little help from you, we could have the job done in 2 or 3 hours. Maybe $100 plus parts. Your shop's quote is ridiculous. Guess I should start charging more.

Dave

[Larry Zimmer]

At 1G for valve adjust, I might consider going into the business! Can buy all new shims and still make enough to pay for a rally trip. Stay with it, Tazz. Mostly just tedious; not difficult.

[tazz]

Thank guys I will keep reading your message and help. I have not remove my valve cover yet I want to make sure I have ALL the parts the I'm going to need for the job. I was thinking of maybe try to get a B cam chain guide but is hard to get.