Progressive (brand) front springs review: 1982 Prolink

[RJ CB650]

I am more of a quiet lurker on this forum, one of a few bike ones I am part of. Last year, I was sort of all grr about my front. Seemed bouncy, and with stand down had to unload suspension to ensure proper lean, etc. One consideration I had was the front springs being not that good. I had one fork seal start to leak so decided to try the Progressive Suspension front springs and see if they would be a cost effective step for the summer, or possibly longer.

From the box, they of course don't look different aside from being a little shorter. Fortunately, they come with a washer and spacer. I am a bit hesitant as it is just a pvc spacer, but again, this initially is just a stop gap for a while.

Performance wise, I am not disappointed. The gains for the cost are actually better than I expected. My one complaint since I started riding the CBX had been its front heavy ride. The front bouncing much worse than the rear, especially on bigger bumps. I did the replacement today and went for a ride around the city and down the highway. It is much more balanced feeling and composed. Where before I could feel the weight in the front even under simple braking, now the suspension action in front and rear are on par with each other and bike keeps a level feeling. More importantly to me however is the bike is sitting proper when parked without the suspension being sagged in front and without requiring a pull back on bars to unloading.

Since the springs that were in it originally were a progressive rate wound spring, I suspect there was some soften/sagging from not having the front suspension unloaded during winter. Tough to say. Either way, if you can live with that pvc spacer, I do recommend them so far to the CBX owner on a budget if you are finding the front lacking. It will not make it some performance road hugging machine, but in my case, still nice and composed, more of what I would expect.

[EMS]

"Bouncing" in a shock or fork is usually the sign of not enough "damping". You may want to play with your fork oil and use a higher weight. I usually use at least 10W, sometimes 15W, although some manufacturers spec 5W for a specific bike.

[RJ CB650]

"Bouncing" in a shock or fork is usually the sign of not enough "damping". You may want to play with your fork oil and use a higher weight. I usually use at least 10W, sometimes 15W, although some manufacturers spec 5W for a specific bike.

Oops, by bounce, not a dampening bounce like a ball, but more just high compress and rebound. Same feeling like if too much weight in back of a truck. That is why it felt so off. But the big part was still when stopped. No more front end sag. Air pressure fluid and rest all the same. It would just be low in the front getting off so wouldnt be leaned proper if I didnt unload like previously mentioned. Part of what had attributed to the highside tip I had last year. I was considering a heavier fork oil before, but roads here are rough and dampening I liked.

Spongy! That is a good analogy. Front end was like spongy brakes. Has resistance, but just kept going.

[daves79x]

If you used the Honda-recommended ATF and recommended amount, you will like the forks a whole lot better with 10wt oil set to 6 inches from the tube top, spring out and fork collapsed.

Dave

[Larry Zimmer]

RJ,
One further improvement you (and others) might consider is to 'replace' those pvc preload spacers with a set of RaceTech emulator valves. NOTE: They sit on top of the damper rod under the spring; not on the top of the springs. For <$150 if you can do-it-yourself. May require some small preload spacer. I forget the exact height of the valves. Reworking the tubes is the easy part of the job. A small drill press is a big (necessary? -- it certainly helps)) thing to put the holes into the damper tubes. Pulling fork tubes, especially on the prolink is the pain. [Can be done with the fairing in-place.]

[RJ CB650]

If you used the Honda-recommended ATF and recommended amount, you will like the forks a whole lot better with 10wt oil set to 6 inches from the tube top, spring out and fork collapsed.

Dave

I had done similar in my nighthawk the year before I got the CBX. Our streets are quite rough around here, and found it did not work on that bike. Very nice in the curves, but was more banging on the rough roads. I had considered it for the CBX though depending on how this turned out. So far working quite nice. When on the highway rides with the vintage motorcycle group of our area, it would help for sure. In the city though, I am not sure. Just much to rough around here. In addition, with more riding, think I know what is making the difference in actual motoring terms. They have more preload in addition to the spring rate. For comparison, the front end would dive when braking on the old springs similar my adventure/dualsport with it's offroad suspension does. If you have ever ridden something like a KLR, that is how the front felt, just with less travel. Much less dive now and that is what was really getting to me.

It had been in the back of my mind that maybe the springs were swapped some time in the past though. I mean it had cruiser grips and seat swapped onto it some point past as well. Both of which I need to remedy as with the bad exhaust. It would have had to been a long time ago since the fluid was utterly sludge when I took them apart. I should have gotten vid of it actually. It would compress at least an inch, if not more just with me getting on it, and I am a skinny guy! The bike previously mentioned which has double the suspension travel of the CBX doesnt compress like the CBX did.

RJ,
One further improvement you (and others) might consider is to 'replace' those pvc preload spacers with a set of RaceTech emulator valves.

For the first part with the spacers, they are not so much for preload, but that the springs themselves are physically shorter than the original ones. While they do set preload of course, they also ensure there is a preload at all XD.

For the second part, you be reading my mind actually. Prior to buying these springs, I had priced and gotten the part numbers for a full RaceTech conversion. I am budgeting and planning that for this winter, but at the same time, I do have other projects I am working on so the budget might go to those depending on priority. I will need to do it at some point. The fork that had the seal go, did so because there was a burr on the bottom portion of the fork tube. I had hit a big unmarked/low visible bump in the road that caused the front to heavily compress and it cut the seal. When I rebuilt it this time, I was able to fine sand it back down but I will still need to replace that tube. When I do, I will get tubes for both sides and full new internals. This will eliminate the air portion as well for the front tubes. This will be done at the same time I rebuild the rear suspension most likely and swap out the rear shock/spring assembly.

If it wasn't for the worn tube, I would definitely try them in combination together, the emulator and progressive spring for sure.

[NobleHops]

If you used the Honda-recommended ATF and recommended amount, you will like the forks a whole lot better with 10wt oil set to 6 inches from the tube top, spring out and fork collapsed.

Dave

I had done similar in my nighthawk the year before I got the CBX. Our streets are quite rough around here, and found it did not work on that bike. Very nice in the curves, but was more banging on the rough roads. I had considered it for the CBX though depending on how this turned out. So far working quite nice. When on the highway rides with the vintage motorcycle group of our area, it would help for sure. In the city though, I am not sure. Just much to rough around here. In addition, with more riding, think I know what is making the difference in actual motoring terms. They have more preload in addition to the spring rate. For comparison, the front end would dive when braking on the old springs similar my adventure/dualsport with it's offroad suspension does. If you have ever ridden something like a KLR, that is how the front felt, just with less travel. Much less dive now and that is what was really getting to me.

It had been in the back of my mind that maybe the springs were swapped some time in the past though. I mean it had cruiser grips and seat swapped onto it some point past as well. Both of which I need to remedy as with the bad exhaust. It would have had to been a long time ago since the fluid was utterly sludge when I took them apart. I should have gotten vid of it actually. It would compress at least an inch, if not more just with me getting on it, and I am a skinny guy! The bike previously mentioned which has double the suspension travel of the CBX doesnt compress like the CBX did.

RJ,
One further improvement you (and others) might consider is to 'replace' those pvc preload spacers with a set of RaceTech emulator valves.

For the first part with the spacers, they are not so much for preload, but that the springs themselves are physically shorter than the original ones. While they do set preload of course, they also ensure there is a preload at all XD.

For the second part, you be reading my mind actually. Prior to buying these springs, I had priced and gotten the part numbers for a full RaceTech conversion. I am budgeting and planning that for this winter, but at the same time, I do have other projects I am working on so the budget might go to those depending on priority. I will need to do it at some point. The fork that had the seal go, did so because there was a burr on the bottom portion of the fork tube. I had hit a big unmarked/low visible bump in the road that caused the front to heavily compress and it cut the seal. When I rebuilt it this time, I was able to fine sand it back down but I will still need to replace that tube. When I do, I will get tubes for both sides and full new internals. This will eliminate the air portion as well for the front tubes. This will be done at the same time I rebuild the rear suspension most likely and swap out the rear shock/spring assembly.

If it wasn't for the worn tube, I would definitely try them in combination together, the emulator and progressive spring for sure.

If you send me that tube I'll have a go at repairing it for you if you like. I have a special solder/flux combo purchased for that very purpose. Postage to Canada might make that not worth it for you, but it's a standing offer.

Gents: I haven't really said much about this next bit, but I'm a RaceTech dealer and would be happy to get you whatever you need, at a bit of a discount. PM me anytime about that.

N.

[RJ CB650]

Thanks for the offer, but that tube is really getting to end of life. The left one is by far worse, but both have some scoring, pitting forming and the rest. Replacement tubes are available and not too bad from a cost standpoint. So if upgrading the rest of it all at some point, the extra coin for the new tubes just seems like a smart investment.

[NobleHops]

Thanks for the offer, but that tube is really getting to end of life. The left one is by far worse, but both have some scoring, pitting forming and the rest. Replacement tubes are available and not too bad from a cost standpoint. So if upgrading the rest of it all at some point, the extra coin for the new tubes just seems like a smart investment.

I agree actually