My second 1982 CBX

[daves79x]

You'll get all the power improvement you'll need by just removing 100 lbs of stuff and making it a naked bike. If you are using the stock airbox, do not go up in main jet size. The stock 105 is slightly rich as it is on the top end (the EPA didn't do high rpm emission testing, hence the lean low and mid-range). I also wouldn't change the slow jet, although I think a 37.5 is available. I wouldn't go any higher than that. Biggest improvement is probably to shim the needle .020 inch. Procedure for doing that is in a million threads here. Next get you accelerator pump working properly. Then open the pilot screws 2 1/2 turns. That'll be all the carburation you need, whatever exhaust you choose. Stay away from the MACS. Terrible looks and sound. Kerker made the best 6-2 exhaust, if you can find a decent one. The good 6-1 pipes that made decent power are NLA. DG is OK but not great. Bassani and D&D made the best and are impossible to find. Some decent ones available from overseas, but cost a mint to ship.

Dave

[EMS]

Dave has a good point. The 81/82 CBX is originally tuned for more low end/mid range power than the predecessor models. The combination of cams and exhaust with the crossover are evidence of that. And removing the weight of the fairing will show that there may be enough of what you want readily available without going through the effort of re-jetting and dialing in new. Aftermarket exhausts usually address horsepower at the high rpm range. That's what sells. For roll-on performance the stock exhaust can hardly be bested.

[Sharpie66]

Thank you Gentleman for responding. Exactly the info I was looking for. Straight forward and to the point.

.......Biggest improvement is probably to shim the needle .020 inch. Procedure for doing that is in a million threads here. Next get you accelerator pump working properly. Then open the pilot screws 2 1/2 turns. That'll be all the carburation you need, whatever exhaust you choose. Stay away from the MACS. Terrible looks and sound. Dave

I'm glad you brought up ''shimming the needle''. I forgot to ask if this was beneficial to my goals. I have read the ''million'' or so posts regarding this modification and understand the theory behind it. Woot woot. Slowly moving through the course work of CBX University. I have been thinking that the accel pump played a large role in power delivery. I put a lot of effort in cleaning that circuit. Sure does emit quite the volume of fuel when clean.

Dave has a good point. The 81/82 CBX is originally tuned for more low end/mid range power than the predecessor models. The combination of cams and exhaust with the crossover are evidence of that. And removing the weight of the fairing will show that there may be enough of what you want readily available without going through the effort of re-jetting and dialing in new. Aftermarket exhausts usually address horsepower at the high rpm range. That's what sells. For roll-on performance the stock exhaust can hardly be bested.

Excellent EMS......info to share with my bike buddies who keep telling me what they think is best. I'm almost gonna sound like I know what I'm talking about.

Have a great day and ride safe.

Patrick

[Sharpie66]

So my carbs have been put back together but not "racked" up as of yet. I promise, Dave, I didn't molest them.

My question is this..... I enlarged the slow jet with a micro drill bit suited for the task. Do any of you re-label the jet from the stock 35 to the new size so that down the road someone will know it has been enlarged?

Thanks and have a great day.

PC

[daves79x]

Well - you DID molest them. Doing what you did is very tricky. What size did you make them? 37.5 would be as big as you should go. Anything larger and you'll be dumping fuel into the engine at idle and low-speed. If you don't know EXACTLY what size you made them and just enlarged them, be prepared for some more work. Yours are at least the screw-in kind and are easy to change.

Dave

[Sharpie66]

I used a #79 orifice gauging bit which mic'd to the max size recommended. To be honest, I am a little uneasy about using these jets. They cleaned up great and the drilling process (by hand only) did go smoothly. I have used a jewelers eyepiece to look down inside the jet and the sidewalls appear quite smooth, no scraping or scratching.

My overall concern stems from my career as a highly detailed Finish Carpenter/Cabinetmaker for 20+yrs. I despise butchery, hackwork and molestation and felt that drilling these out rather qualified. So, why did I do it........these jets were not cleaning up very well (broke 2 #80's) and the gauging kit was made available by a small bike shop next door to my shop.

Best to listen to instinct.....I think I will go back to my original plan of ordering new jets as I just don't think I can duplicate the precision of new ones. The cost is minimal compared to the potential headache of using "molested" pieces. Thanks for the reality check there Dave.

On a different note, while removing the forks yesterday I rubbed a little grime off of the registration sticker and what I believed was 1997 turned out to be 1987. This bike has been sitting for 27 years instead of the 17 I originally believed. Some might say why is a Carpenter working on this fine machine......well after taking X1 to a mechanic of good reputation last year and then discovering three things that were heavy handed and butched after she was returned, I pretty much vowed to avoid the local mechanics (except for Northeast Honda, of course) at all costs. Plus I have the utmost confidence in myself to do the most important thing......ask questions!

I will eventually be very qualified to work on these machines. In the meantime thanks again for the assistance.

Patrick

[daves79x]

Patrick:

Thanks for that post. Just a note on cleaning the #35 jets. Simply take a propane torch to them and all the gunk will soon come bubbling out and into a fine powder. Then just clear any remaining debris with a wire gauge. No need to touch them with a drill.

Dave

[NobleHops]

Patrick,

You'll make a fine running bike with your mindset, that is clear.

[Sharpie66]

I have purchased a Progressive shock for this bike and will begin installation very soon. I am wondering if there is any maintenance to be done to the swingarm at this point or any thing I should anticipate with the installation of a Progressive shock. Please keep in mind the bike has been sitting for 27 years. This is what I think should do:
1. remove swingarm, suspension arm and rods. Clean away all crudd whch is pretty thick and caked on.
2. clean and grease according to FSM
3. now the biggy...I am very apprehensive about getting into the swingarm bearings themselves. After searching and reading posts, it appears that they are NLA. I am concerned that sitting for so long has greatly reduced the service life of the grease and the bearings. Yes/No?

I would really like to stay ahead of the cart on this one so I am trying a new approach...''ask first''.
Thanks for any help.

PC

[Sharpie66]

Just kidding...... I'm sure it's straightfoward and after reviewing the FSM and reading any and all posts concerning the installation of a Progressive Shock, I am not too concerned. Was more curious if anybody prior had any 'aha' moments or 'heads up' tips.

Carry on.....

PC

[NobleHops]

Sorry you got no replies on this Patrick.

For certain, be careful with all those bearings. The needle can be replaced but the ball bearings are unobtanium. Also pay very close attention to the orientation of the ball bearings - they are not symmetrical. They are installed 'shoulder to shoulder' and if not, then they're not working. That's been covered pretty thoroughly here I think. Larry previously advised that if you extract that needle bearing you have almost certainly destroyed it, as it's hardened on one end only for installation. If you can clean it all up to your satisfaction and it feels good without removing it then I'd consider leaving that one in place and R&Ring the others and the spacer from the other end.

IMO if you take it apart, clean and regrease it you will indeed be doing yourself a favor, even if you leave the needle in there as you do. Not certain if the ProLink bikes have a grease fitting, but if they don't then I'd consider drilling and tapping for one in the location where that spacer has a recess and be certain you picked a spot you can access when it's all back together.

HTH,

N.

[EMS]

I wasn't sure whether an answer was really required. Yes, the double row ball bearing is no longer available. I found one NOS a while ago, but I am sure everybody will understand that I will not easily part from it. Cleaning and re-greasing is the thing to do and they should last for the life of the bike.

[Sharpie66]

Thank you gentleman for the responses. It all somehow makes a little more sense when stated directly.

I appreciate the tip of installing a grease fitting and will strongly consider doing so. Makes perfect sense for future maintenance and I'm surprised Honda didn't install one. Do the other CBX's have this fitting?

PC

[daves79x]

'79-'80s have a central grease fitting under the swingarm pivot. But the pivot is just bushings. Cleaning the swingarm bearings and greasing them the best you can while it's apart is about the best you can do there, unless you can verify that they're shot, then you'll need to find replacements, on which there has been much discussion.

Biggie here is that I know for sure you'll find the dogbone pivots dry and they need taken apart and lubed while you are doing the shock. And they need done every couple of years thereafter. They are a high stress/wear point.

Dave

[NobleHops]

'79-'80s have a central grease fitting under the swingarm pivot. But the pivot is just bushings. Cleaning the swingarm bearings and greasing them the best you can while it's apart is about the best you can do there, unless you can verify that they're shot, then you'll need to find replacements, on which there has been much discussion.

Biggie here is that I know for sure you'll find the dogbone pivots dry and they need taken apart and lubed while you are doing the shock. And they need done every couple of years thereafter. They are a high stress/wear point.

Dave

This. The last two bikes I worked on that had these linkages were my VStrom and my DRZ and both were dry as a bone and binding when I R&Red the shocks.