80 CBX FORK BOTTOM HEX SOCKET BOLT STUCK!

[sixofsix]

OK, the latest on the 80 CBX. Went to replace fork seals and fork tubes. Found socket head bolt in fork lower bottom has a stripped hex. So I got my Snap On Hex Socket, it turned in stripped hex hole. Pounded in 1/4" hex socket, it turned too. So now I have some choices. Drill out and try an easy out, no giving that much hope as I was yanking pretty hard on the hex socket. So I am thinking of drilling the head off the bolt. What size is this bolt? I need to know just the right size of drill bit to use so as not to damage the recessed portion in the fork lower. Thanks! Tony

[daves79x]

Bolt is 8mm.

Dave

[EMS]

Tony, have you tried a slightly oversized torx socket that you have to "pound" in?

[Larry Zimmer]

Another thought, Tony: an Easy-out on the end of an impact gun. Note: The screw is not threaded into the fork tube. It threads into the damper rod inside the tube. So, you have a hole behind the bolt head. Just don't go much beyond the bolt head. Behind the bolt head is a copper washer to seal against the bottom of the bolt recess pocket. You just don't want to damage the surface under the washer.

[asacuta]

If you get the bolt out, please let us know what worked. I second the suggestion to try an impact gun: they can work magic on a bolt that won't budge any other way.

[NobleHops]

I had frozen damper rod bolts very recently and asked a machinest friend to extract them. He used an extractor set that looked like long allen sockets, but they were distinctly tapered at the end. As Larry points out its little use heating the fork leg as that's not where the threads are. My buddy pounded in this tool, put it on an air wrench and out they came.

[sixofsix]

Hello:

Thanks for your replies. So I tried a 1/4" hex socket and it was not working. So, I drilled it out to just under the hex size and the heat of drilling helped as it turned out. So then I pounded in the metric hex socket into the new deeper hole and voila! it was easily removed. Then I found a large gouge in the chroming where fork seal travels, that was sanded by previous owner. Tube was scrap. However, Louis sent me a wrong set of fork tubes 3 years ago for my 79 CBX and then refunded me my money and asked me to send them over the next time I was in the states. Well I did not do that so I contacted Louis today and said "How did you know I was eventually going to get an 80 CBX? HA!. So now that I am going to use them I am PayPal-ing Louis the money. Also he did not remember the deal but said thanks for remembering. BTW this drilling out of the bolt to minor diameter of hex worked excellent, I remembered this trick from drilling out sludge tube plug on cranks on 650 Triumphs. Next time I will try the torx bit too. Gotta love these project CBX's. Re-sealing air box was fun too...that little deflector inside that fits in exact slots drove me nuts. But it is now all sealed up and looks great. Permatex Ultra Black silicone is grey, the plain "Black" Silicone is really black. Luckily auto parts store exchanged it as he said black should be black as they also sell a "Grey".

...back to the CBX Cave..

#0006

[Larry Zimmer]

Good to hear success!! On to the next gremlin.

[sixofsix]

OK, next gremlin. The tubes from Louis are by Forking by Frank. They look like 80 CBX forks except are 25 7/8" long and not 25 1/4" long like the originals. Louis said this is normal. So I go to install them and first thing I notice is that the spring rattles around in there as it is too short for the longer tubes. I re=tried the original gouged tube and as usual you have to push down on the cap to engage the threads as you have to compress the spring slightly.

1) Does Frank deliberately make his tubes 5/8" longer? Why?

2) Will there be a problem?

I understand once you have the weight of the bike on the forks the whole thing will compress so the spring will not be loose in there and I doubt you will even notice the 5/8" extra height if there was any.

Any thoughts?

I don't mind using these forks and don't mind paying for them if they work, but I just want this to be right. Basically I will light this CBX and ride it to California. Would appreciate any comments. I am poised to assemble the forks...

Thanks,

Tony
Lumby, BC
Canada

[daves79x]

I would cut yourself a spring pre-load spacer from PVC to make up the extra distance and then install the forks with the tubes the extra 5/8 inch extended on top. I wouldn't raise the front end by 5/8 inch.

Dave

[sixofsix]

Dave:

Yes the PVC spacer was also suggested by Louis. I wonder why these Franks Forks are 5/8" longer? I wonder if all 80 CBX forks by Franks are longer and if not, why this set? Possibly for another model, say an 1100F or ???

Oh well, these tubes are going in tonight.

You know what they say..."Piss with the **** you got"! I have no other choice as the original tube is gouged and I will have to put in the longer forks as a pair.

Tony

[daves79x]

Don't know what else they'd fit except some other Euro-spec bikes with clip-ons and the fact that they're 35mm. Canadian 1100F tubes are 39mm. Won't be a problem, just remember to hold that 5/8 out of the top when installing the assemblies in the yokes.

Dave

[sixofsix]

Dave:
I held the 5/8" out at the top. I had loosely assembled them at the regular height and found out immediately that the brake hoses were too short when fork is fully extended - like when you were to crest a hill and the forks completely unloaded. Could have been a catastrophe as the bango bolt or hose could have sheared off! Also when in normal position you could not get the front wheel to clear the ground when on center stand as the rear wheel touched down and front wheel also was still touching. Looks a little goofy with forks up the 5/8" but works fine.

Anyways forks are on all fasteners torqued up. Now onto brakes...

Tony