front cam tensioner bolt

[neilx7]

Hi,
How does the front cam chain tensioner bolt, work with the tensioning mechanism,
I ask this as, In the manual to adjust the front loosen the front lock nut and bolt ½ turn tighten the bolt and lock nut,
My issue is there is just a bolt and no lock nut, someone in the past has stripped it, and looks like they have tapped it to larger size about m10 or 12 buy the looks of the bolt as it had a 15m head on it.
See photo.
The question is what to do next, can I remove the bolt and put a lock nut on it, if so how will it affect the mechanism, if I remove the bolt.

Cheers
Neil

[EMS]

The bolt pushes against the rod on the front end of the tensioner and "locks" it, keeps it from sliding. The bolt should have a lock nut and an O-ring as an oil seal.
If you remove the bolt, nothing really happens other than the spring in the tensioner trying to pull the rod back and thus bending the tensioner plate and picking up the slack in the cam chain.
In order to make sure, that the tensioner takes out all slack on the return strand of the chain, rotate the engine forward before you re-tighten the bolt.

[barryadam]

Neil,

PM sent

Barry

[neilx7]

thanks for the reply's some great info,

I think I will remove the bolt, put a lock nut and copper washer on and see how it goes.

cheers
Neil

[daves79x]

Looks like someone drilled out to about the largest you could fit there. You have to be careful that you don't pull what threads are there out when you tighten the lock nut against the copper washer. You might find a more esthetically pleasing bolt and locknut also. You might check for free movement of the tensioner by taking off the valve cover. Sometimes a sloppy job of drilling can foul the bore where the tensioner rod is.

Looks like you also don't have the correct rubber plug in the end of the tower. They are still available from Honda.

Dave

[neilx7]

Hi Dave,
the annoying thing is I just put the head back on after 2 bolts snapped on the cam covers, but I thought the tensioner bolt was standard until i read on how to adjust it, and noticed there was no lock nut.
I will see how it goes with as you say a better looking bolt and lock nut/washer, if it don't work well i know how to take head off without reading the manual .
2 steps forward and 1 step backwards.

cheers
Neil

[neilx7]

head back off and on inspection, the m12 bolt is just filling the hole were the tensioner bolt should be, and going no wear near the tensioner rod.
the rob was sized in the hole, i have freed it off now and plane to sleeve the hole with a m12 bolt machine it flush and loctite it in then tap it to the correct size of the new tension bolt i have coming.
or can someone suggest another way of doing it.

[daves79x]

That sounds like a good fix. I think your existing hole is now too big for the correct Helicoil tap. Did you get your replacement adjuster bolt/nut from Six Center in Holland? That's another cool replica part they are now making. It is the late model type of adjuster bolt, which is better.

Dave

[neilx7]

hi Dave,
yes it on it way from Holland as I type.
I take it that the adjuster stops the tensioner rod from sliding all the way forward keeping the chain tough.

thanks
neil

[daves79x]

Well, not exactly. Both early and late style tensioner bolts lock the tensioner in place. Just the o-ring sealing method is different, as well as maybe the bolt diameter. When you get yours, you'll then know what size to tap.

Dave

[neilx7]

ok thanks Dave, some good advice.