Engine Ticking Sound - What is it?

[justnutsandbolts]

Well there are 2 of them
15k miles on bike
Dont think valved have ever been adjusted
Bike seems to ride fine though


Noise #1 :
Constant at idle, repetitions increase as RPMs increase
Sounds like it is coming from the top right (sitting on bike).
Almost around the exhaust area.

VIDEO:
http://youtu.be/qiaBVMg-ltk
***FIXED*** It was the loose exhaust flange nuts



Noise #2 :
It occurs when I increase the RPMs and get to about 2500-3000. After I let go off the throttle it still makes the noise for a second or two and then goes away.
I dont hear it at idle.
Sounds like the timing chain? bent valve? i have no idea.
It sounds like it is coming from the left (sitting on bike) side, lower part of the engine.

VIDEO:
http://youtu.be/mnz8KQL8GG8
***FIXED*** It was the spring in the alternator. I put a thicker washer in and now the noise is gone

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

To me the first clip sounds like valves ticking.
They have tightened up which can cause the engine to run hot which MIGHT be one of the reasons for your blue pipes.
I would be checking clearances and/or adjusting valves.
The second one sounds like an alternator chirp. Maybe worn brushes, sacked spring or scored plates.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Vid 1 sounds like an exhaust leak.

Vid 2 ,sounds like a bad bearing in the alt. Edit, read Steve's last sentence, either way that alt needs to come off and be inspected before you ruin it.


IMHO

[justnutsandbolts]

Hmm

Vid 1
Would the exhaust leak noise increase in reps with RPM?

Vid 2
I've been reading on this and alternator fix doesnt sound too hard.
For the posts I've read, noone has posted a video so I cant really compare
I'll remove the alternator and post pics tomorrow morning.

Here's is what I've received from Timscbx
after I listened to your video number 2 that’s an adherent pinging from the alternator--it doesn’t hurt the bike and sometimes you can add a washer behind the clutch plates and it will dissapear but most cbxs do this periodically--mine does it too---not to worry but you can try the washer shim--unfortunately video number one sounds like cam chain backlash or worse--definitely need to have it addressed soon

[daves79x]

Agree with Jeff on both points.

Dave

[mhutton]

I wouldn't speculate. If you're unsure on any of these points they need checking anyway!

[justnutsandbolts]

Vid 1 noise fixed:
It was the loose header flange nuts. I tightened all and noise went away.


Vid 2 noise:
Ok so I took the alternator off.
It is very dirty but I did not feel much play in either bearings, the plates dont seem to be "serrated" too much (see pic).
Although the spring measured ~29.5mm and according to a post in this (viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6781) HOW-TO, it's supposed to be around 31
I did not have a long 22mm socket so I didnt take the rotor shaft out of the rotor yet but there is no play in that either.
I am going to buy a set of brushes, plates and a new spring
Do you guys see anything in the pics that I'm not catching?
Thanks

Pics:

[Jeff Bennetts]

You have oil in the alt, the mixture of the oil and brush dust will short out the unit, clean everything up, replace both bearings, the rear bearing is letting oil into the alt, the sealed bearings are common and available at any bearing supplier.

There are a hundred threads on here with detailed info on checking the rings and reconditioning the alt.

You're doing great so far, pics really help the members diagnose your problems and the video was a nice touch.

When you get your new A&B plates, check that the oiling groves don't have sharp shoulders, if they do clean them up with some emery cloth, pre-oil the plates when you reassemble everything.

[FalldownPhil]

There should be two washers between the spring and the clutch plate. One is metal and the other is plastic. The clutch plate pictured looks fine. You might look for a new spring or just throw an extra washer in there to add tension to the spring.
Phil

[Jeff Bennetts]

If decide to take Phil's advice, resurface the plate faces on a flat surface using some 220 or so emery cloth, knock down the oil groves edges like I mentioned in my previous post and make up the dif with a thicker metal washer or add one.

[Rick Pope]

What Jeff said on replacing the bearings, which are a 6201 and a 6203, found at any decent auto parts store. In addition, replace the seal. I don't remember the measurements, but it's also common. Last time I checked, my Honda dealer had them for around $4.

[SIXandCHANGE]

Hi everybody,
new guy in town, and the most relevant problem of my "new" Prolink is very similar to this one.
So, if you don't mind (sorry justnutsandbolts for using your topic), I'll continue in here rather than opening a new thread with same title.

My CBX is also ticking like crazy when reaching 3 or 4000 RPM.
bike has 15.000 miles.
Noise is coming from left - top side mainly.
To me, it sounds like a distribution noise (Valves?), but I'm not sure.
I already tried to adjust the distribution chain through the front bolt while I can't reach easily the nut below the carbs.
Noise still there.
Noise tends to significantly reduce at idle (1500 rpm).

Here is a video with warm motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJvTYBHn ... load_owner

Thanks!

[justnutsandbolts]

Hey,

I am sorry I forgot to edit the page.
I removed the metal washer and added a thicker one (bought washer from Lowe's and opened the inner diameter larger. Outer diameter was dead on)
After I did this the noise went away.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Usually a quiet bike is a happy bike.
Thanks for the reporting back on your fix.

[SIXandCHANGE]

Hey,

I am sorry I forgot to edit the page.
I removed the metal washer and added a thicker one (bought washer from Lowe's and opened the inner diameter larger. Outer diameter was dead on)
After I did this the noise went away.

Happy to hear you fixed your noises, this gives me hope I might not need to open the "big block"....

My CBX is also ticking like crazy when reaching 3 or 4000 RPM.
bike has 15.000 miles.
Noise is coming from left - top side mainly.
To me, it sounds like a distribution noise (Valves?), but I'm not sure.
I already tried to adjust the distribution chain through the front bolt while I can't reach easily the nut below the carbs.
Noise still there.
Noise tends to significantly reduce (nearly disppear) at idle (1500 rpm).
Here is a video with warm motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJvTYBHn ... load_owner
Thanks!

So... anyone who wants to share his opinion about my engine noise?
Thank you!