Newbie in CA - Hydro locked

[ricko600]

My friend - really, not me - bought a very nice 1979 a couple of years ago. The PO warned us about leaving the petcock open and the potential for hydro locking the engine. My friend rode with me up Angeles Crest Highway a couple of weeks ago then came by (it's in my garage) a week ago and wanted to start it up. He found the petcock was "on", thought about "hydro lock" for a moment and pushed the start button. BAM.

Started taking it apart and found the blown head gasket on #1 then, finally, bent rod on #1.

Buying parts for a re-build and have found everything but a single rod.

Anyone have one for sale?

Thanks.

P.S. - Glad he was the on that hit the start button, not me...

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Welcome to the site, ricko.
Don't hear about that affliction happening very often anymore.
Sorry can't help with the spare rod.
CopperCollar posted pics of his curved paper weights...viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7131

[daves79x]

Give me the weight code of the bent rod - I probably have one. I need both the letter and the number at the split. Oh - spend $250 on new Honda float valves for the carbs. No guarantee, but the best you can do.

Dave

[ricko600]

Thanks for the help.

Rod info.:

13204-422-010 "C" Connecting Rod

Does that give you enough information?

And, yes, putting in new float valves.

Eric

[NobleHops]

Greetings and welcome to the site. Sorry about your friend's bike - that would make me about as ill as I imagine you were.

And now he gets to play the "While we're at it!" game, and ponder his cam chain tensioners, valve guide seals, camshaft joints, AAAAIIIIIEEEEEEEE!

N.

[ricko600]

We were both sick. He got over it because he knew HE made the choice to push the button with the thought in his head "Hmm, maybe I shouldn't do this".

And, yes, he's watching the meter run up on the parts and labor and trying to figure out when to stop. He bought the bike to keep it and it is in beautiful physical shape but each decision seems to add another $500.

[EMS]

And, yes, he's watching the meter run up on the parts and labor and trying to figure out when to stop. He bought the bike to keep it and it is in beautiful physical shape but each decision seems to add another $500.

Hey, owning a vintage motorcycle is like sitting in the garage, breathing in exhaust fumes and tearing up $50.- notes.....

[daves79x]

If you give me the rod ID code - the number stamped opposite the weight code letter - I can match the rod exactly so you won't have to use new bearings.

Dave

[ricko600]

Dave, Thanks again. I'll get that and reply today. Eric

[FalldownPhil]

Ouch,
What a sad story. You are in good hands here. Tell your friend for future fererence, if ever in doubt, to turn off the kill switch at the handlebar and then crank it. The starter motor does not have enough power on it's own to bend a rod. If a cylinder is full of fuel, the starter will be stopped dead in its tracks. Then you know that you must pull the plugs to get the fuel out of the cylinders. This of course is just from my own experience and it has worked for me. Yes, it has saved me on one occasion.
Phil

[ricko600]

Dave,

Rod ID code (I think): #1

Do you want to take this off the forum? Text me at 626 818 5053 if that's OK.

Thanks again.

Eric

[Jeff Bennetts]

Eric, take a look at this thread for rod code reference,
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7088&p=54227&hilit=Rod+code#p54227

[ricko600]

To update: We got the hydro-lock rebuild completed including carb rebuilds with Honda parts including float valves...so...
Going on a ride this AM up Angeles Crest Highway to Newcombs Ranch for breakfast. Bike was on center stand with fuel petcock off. Started fine and away I went. Stopped at Newcombs, put bike on side stand and left petcock "On". Had breakfast and talked shop for about 90 minutes. Started bike without incident and rode up the hill about 20 miles then back down to freeway. Running down freeway at 75 and 5,000 RPM the bike started to lose power. I backed off and took the next off ramp, pulled in clutch and bike died. I coasted to a stop then tried to restart. It started by wouldn't rev and sounded "loaded up". I parked it and opened the oil filler plug and had a "gusher" of fuel and oil. I capped it off and called my friend - the owner of the bike, he doesn't ride and let's me ride and maintain it.

So it's back home on my trailer.

1. Could a stuck float valve fill the crankcase in 90 minutes while I was eating breakfast? I guess if #1 was at TDC and didn't fill and hydro-lock it could have filled. It started and ran fine for about 50 miles before bogging.
2. More importantly, what would you do next? Drain and refill crank case and drain and refill again? How do I assess and ring and/or bearing damage?
3. If it runs fine, should we just run it and ALWAYS close the petcock when the engine isn't running?

Thanks again.

Eric
PS - the owner is thinking of draining it and making a static display piece....

[FalldownPhil]

I am speechless and you are very lucky
Best,
Phil

[ricko600]

Well Phil, we don't feel very lucky after a complete re-build at large cost and really don't know what went wrong other than leaving the petcock open for 90 minutes. After an expensive complete carb re-build!

So, if you can regain speech, what's the best course of action now?