Prolink clutch into my Z

[isaac]

Hi I can see in the pic of that clutch only one washer,If it is the large washer you would be able to use your smaller washer thats on your bike.It looks like it has everything els exept the nut but yours has that anyway,I paid alot more for mine but it is brand new, where that one is second hand,it does look to be good nick,cheers Isaac.

1981 Honda CBX CB-X CBX1000 CBX1050 1000 1050 *7 clutch C...
this is another one on Ebay.

[isaac]

Yeah!! the new clutch is in,the noises are about 94% better,I think the 6% I can hear is cam chain I .
It goes in and out of gear good,on the centre stand anway,I havnt taken it for a test ride yet,its dark and wet here.
Tommorow is going to be worse ,ill have to wait to see how it goes on the road,thanks for any input Iv had,the job went pretty smooth realy,it pays to read threads in here and know that if you have a problem help is at hand,cheers Isaac.

[NobleHops]

Bravo Isaac, well done!

N.

[daves79x]

Congrats, Isaac!

Dave

[Samelak]

Where is the thread on the Pro-Link clutch conversion? I would like to see step-by-step what needs to be done.

[isaac]

Ok up the top of this page,in the blue,you will see a search box,just put in clutch for now hit search,and you will see alot of things come up about clutches,you have to go through them to find the info you want.
I'm NO expert,I only just did my first one,but I will tell you what I did.1 put the bike on the centre Stand.2 warm it up,3 drop the oil out of sump.4 remove the clutch cable from clutch cover.5 remove the oil hose protective cover.6 remove all clutch cover bolts (make sure you get the ones hidden behind the oil hose).6 get a soft hammer & tap the cover all around,there are a couple of lugs that stick out tap those & if your lucky it should pop off.7 remove the alloy star shaped part at the end of the clutch.8 now you can see a nut,there is a special socket you can buy to remove it,you will also see one bell washer & push rode.9 now you can remove the clutch basket & sleeve.10 put the sleeve that you get with your prolink clutch back in(this sleeve is shorter than the one you removed).11 now get your new basket slide all the plates out together,only put the first part of the case on the splines,there are two pins on the back of this that MUST locate in the small sprocket behind the thje clutch,( I faced the holes in that sprocket at 9 & 3 oclock & did the same with the pins)a little wiggle and they went in.12 this is were you need the bigger bell washer that you should of got with the new clutch,it fit over the splines and goes up against the first part of the basket you just put in,now slide your clutch plates back in, put the same bell washer that you removed back on or if you got a new one,replace the nut if everything is right you should have about half a thread on the nut showing when its hand tight,(IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN THAT SOMETHING MYBE WRONG)if it is ok tighten up with tourqe to 40lbs, now the nut should be pretty close to flush give or take bit.13 start putting it back together the reverse of removal.14 when putting the clutch cover back on,there is a rod with a pin going through the bottom,I turned it untill the pin was at 6 oclock did the with the sprocket, put a spanner on the bolt head & tuned it slowly back and forth as I was putting the cover on untill I felt it locate,continue with assembly.
I hope this helps you or others a bit,BUT! like I said I'm no expert,it pays to check & check again,good luck,cheers Isaac.

[Samelak]

I'm looking for a 81/82 clutch again. One just popped up on ebay. Can someone tell me by the pic if everything is there for the swap?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-and-1982-H ... 30&vxp=mtr

[FalldownPhil]

Samelack,
Beware the buyer !! This is being sold by the same guy that advertised his bike in the For Sale section of this site.
At best, he is a very deceptive seller.
Nuff said.
Best,
Phil

[Goss]

Thanks Phil,

I had my eye on that clutch basket too but thought the shipping cost would be too high. Think I will leave my standard '80 clutch in place because there is nothing wrong with it and besides it let's me know when my carbs need balancing.

Regards

Steve

[Samelak]

I picked up a prolink clutch and "I think" I have it assembled right so far. I used only the parts from the prolink assembly. This is the order of how I installed everything: 1) shorter prolink sleeve, 2) large washer that goes over the splines, 3) clutch inner housing, 4) then the friction plates, 5) small washer, 6) finally the castleated nut. With all these parts installed, the nut is flush with the thread end (not torqued). What I have remaining is another small washer and the clutch star cover with bolts and springs. From what I read in the earlier responses, it looks like one of the small washers goes onto the spline before the sleeve. Is that true? Will it effect were the lock nut ends? Also, is there a torque requirement for the 6 bolts that hold the star cover on?

[NobleHops]

Careful Lee!

I made a mess of the reinstallation of that star-shaped thing, even after Dave and others tried to carefully explain it to me a few times.

Look carefully at those bolts - two (from memory) are different than the others - you have to match those up to the proper bosses. The star-shaped bit has teeny indentations indicating where it is supposed to align with those two special bosses, circular dimples. That's not the important part - it's getting the different bolts into the correct bosses. Read this bit in the manual a few times before proceeding - it kind-of glosses over this part. The torque is something like 6 or 9 lbs (from memory - check it) but other advice I got was to treat them like valve cover bolts and just snug them plus a skosh - they are shouldered. Ask Bill Brint how many he sent me because I snapped them trying to torque them. They are about as rugged as snowblower shear pins, eg not very. Track Dave or Jeff or one of the other smaht guys down for a more informed answer on this before you proceed.

N.

[Samelak]

I appreciate the response on the 6 bolts. They do look cheaply made. How about my reassembly? I never pull a washer off the shaft from behind the sleeve so there should be one in place. Like I said, the castle nut is near flush with the threads hand-tight.

[Samelak]

I pulled it apart to verify the washer behind the sleeve and it is there. I am still with an extra washer. I checked the illustrated parts breakdown for the pro link and did not see another small washer pictured. So as of right now, there are three washers installed: 1) the one between the case and spacer, 2) the larger one and 3) the one behind the castle nut. I got everything from Louis. He sent two of the smaller washers. The castle nut is almost flush with the thread hand tightened.

[NobleHops]

Lee, if I knew I'd chime in. Does the Honda parts diagram help?

N.

[daves79x]

There is a washer in front of the sleeve also. That's the one sellers of these baskets never have and buyers don't know they need. From the parts fiche, you can see where it goes. When tight, the nut should barely have it's threads covered. The two washers are different part numbers than the early one, but early ones will work. The second washer in front is necessary due to the shorter sleeve.

Dave