The Travesty's resurrection begins

[CopperCollar]

I spent the day messin with the fuel tank. I think it's junk but like the Travesty I will salvage it.

So I have a real problem that others may have run into and can guide me on how to appraoch this repair.

There is a hole in the fuel tank and it is right behind the emblem screw. I stuck a toothpick in and it goes through the threads and into the tank.


I am exploring ways to fix this, maybe brazing the hole but that creates a problem with the emblem tab, I would have to bend it out far enough to get the flame and brazing rod to the hole.

So fellow CBXer's what ideas have you?

Mike

[ajs350]

Mike
How about JB Weld http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php or some other fuel resistant epoxy. If you can see the hole inside the tank maybe you can force the JB weld mix from the outside and then smear it around the hole inside.
Ross

[Don]

I agree - JB Weld or Marine-Tex should do the job

Smear some into the hole and then push it in there with a screw . . . . not too far or you'll push it all the way through. As it hardens, insert and remove the screw a few times to 'chase' the threads. Once it's all set up the screw *should* still fit, but if not, you could clean up the threads further with a bottoming tap if necessary

If the inside of the tank is rusty and needs a sealer, use POR or something similar after you've done your repair - That will further seal up everything

I think the hole was caused by using a screw which is too long to attach the Honda Badge - Make *sure* you have the factory correct screw when you re-attach the badge. Make sure the emblem can be reattched with the proper screw without pushing your repair back out before you spend $$$ repainting the tank

An alternative might be to cut a hole on the inside of the tank which would provide access to the hole, weld up the hole and then weld the cutout back in place, but . . . . you'd need to make sure the rest of the tank is worth all the effort - If it's very rusty inside, you just might be better off investing in a better tank

Don

[CopperCollar]

Good ideas, this tank is sealed but the hole occurred after the sealing was done and before the dents were pulled........lucky me.

So,, how should I strip the sealer out?

I see TexTornado has his 80 up for sale on Craigslist.

Mike

[NobleHops]

I wouldn't strip the sealer out myself, sounds like a mess. I'd personally neatly cut out that badge-mounting strap, weld or braze it from the outside, weld the mounting strap back in and never think about it again.

N.

[barryadam]

I wouldn't strip the sealer out myself, sounds like a mess. I'd personally neatly cut out that badge-mounting strap, weld or braze it from the outside, weld the mounting strap back in and never think about it again.

N.

I don't think the sealer is going to like that "...weld or braze it.." part.
Strip the sealer, braze repair the hole, remove the dents, then clean and ENC PLATE the tank, then paint.
Better then new, and no carb contamination to worry about later.

[daves79x]

Mike:
Depends on what sealer was used on the tank how hard it will be to strip. POR 15 would be the first place I'd go to for advice on that. I'd try the JB weld route first and see if it holds gas for a week or so - then call it good.

Saw Tornado's Craigslist ad - actually not a bad looking bike - too bad you have the original '80 carbs that are supposed to go on it.

Dave

[Samelak]

Cut the spot welds out on the tab and weld the the hole up properly. I wouldn't mess wih JB Weld. If it ever fails, to repair again would mean a new paint job.

[Don]

I can't picture any way to cut the welds holding the tab so you could get it off the tank . . . . especially without destroying the tab - Anyway, welding anything with the sealer already in there is really going to make a mess

As Dave suggested, try the epoxy and make sure it doesn't leak and then go with that. The epoxies are very good - I used Marine-Tex to patch a rotted out hole in the exhaust manifold on the little diesel in my sailboat once . . . . it held fine for about 100 hours of running time until I replaced the manifold with a new one. I think if you get a good seal with the epoxy *and* you don't have an issue with the screw again trying to poke a hole, you'll be fine for a long, long time

I *would* make sure it's problem-free before I ever thought about painting it . . . . I also would keep an eye out for a better tank though - Since this one came already sealed, you have no idea how bad it really is. Shame to spend the $$$ to put a good paint job on a bad tank

Don

[EMS]

Mike:
- too bad you have the original '80 carbs that are supposed to go on it.

Dave

??? What does that mean?
Do you have a set of 80 carbs and try to put together a 79 CBX? I will trade you for a set of 79s. I need a set of 80 carbs for my Marysville X.

[daves79x]

Mike S.

I think if I recall correctly, I rebuilt a set of '79 carbs (from my stock) that Tornado put on the '80 he is selling now on Craigslist. I think Mike here got the '80 set that was originally on that bike. I think Tornado got 'his' carb guy to finally rebuild Travesty's original '79 carbs and those he was peddling here and elsewhere. Not sure if I'm remembering that all correctly, but that's what I recall. Mike might be interested in trading you the '80 carbs for correct '79 ones for Travesty, if not, I have a couple of sets of '80 carbs here I can work with you for your project. That's what the original comment was all about.

Dave

[CopperCollar]

EMS..... Pm sent.

I think I'll explore brazing the hole, do the metal work,strip the liner then reseal and paint.

Nothing with the Travesty has come easy, , just the type of character she is.

Mike

[CopperCollar]

I finally have the gauge cluster together.

Dave gets the credit for putting the speedo back together and painting the bezel of that and the tach.
Before:




After:



Mike

[CopperCollar]

At last I got my arse in gear and loaded the piston and rods into the cylinders. Then I assembled that to the block and bolted up the rods to the crank.
I assembled the bottom case to the top and checked my tranny. I couldn't get it to shift into 5th. The middle fork would not cam over enough to engage the gear. I studied this for a bit and came up with a solution.

Split the cases again and flipped the shift fork shaft. There is a internally threaded end. I had it towards the shift mechanism side of the case, I flipped the shaft so the threaded end was on the clutch side of the case, reassembled top and bottom cases and she shifted through all the gears fine.

My Honda manual has nothing indicating how this shaft is to be assembled....I studied the manual looking for pictures and instructions but nothing was clear cut. Right now the tranny shifts through all gears, I hope it continues to do so under power and without dropping out of gear. Looking into the engine I could see the gear cogs engaing fully so I have my fingers crossed on this one.



Mike

[daves79x]

Mike:
You got it right. I ran into this a few years ago and there is a thread here somewhere about it. The hole in the shift fork shaft is slightly off-center and the shop manual shows an exaggerated drawing of that - that's the only way to tell. You are correct, Honda does not mention the orientation at all. I had to take one apart and correct exactly as you describe. At least you found it on the bench - I had to drop the engine again to fix the one I screwed up.

Dave