Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
- CopperCollar
- ICOA Member
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- Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
- Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
I used to be a field mechanic on heavy off road equipment....crawlers and such.
Back then I used a thread sealer made by Loctite.
With the cleaner and primer the stuff sealed studs and bolts incredibly well.
Mike.
Back then I used a thread sealer made by Loctite.
With the cleaner and primer the stuff sealed studs and bolts incredibly well.
Mike.
When given the choice between being right or being kind; choose kindness. W. Dyer
- ajs350
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- Location: Atlanta, GA USA
Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
I found this link that that has 3 Loctite thread sealers, 565, 567 and 569. I'm thinking 567 is the right one but could use confirmation.
Thanks
Ross
http://www.ellsworth.com/display/produc ... ab=Vendors
Thanks
Ross
http://www.ellsworth.com/display/produc ... ab=Vendors
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Ross:
Sorry, I didn't answer your question. I've always just used teflon liquid thread sealant - I think that's what Honda used. Any good thread sealant I'm sure would work.
Dave
Sorry, I didn't answer your question. I've always just used teflon liquid thread sealant - I think that's what Honda used. Any good thread sealant I'm sure would work.
Dave
- ajs350
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Success! I could not find any Loctite thread sealer at my local auto parts store so bought the Permatex equivalent.
I tried to remove both the inlet and exhaust studs from #4 but the exhaust stud would not budge. The #4 inlet stud came out quite easily which I guess was a good indication of where the oil was coming from. I applied the thread sealer last night and boxed it all up to cure. Took the bike for 50 mile ride and no more drips on the floor.
Ross
I tried to remove both the inlet and exhaust studs from #4 but the exhaust stud would not budge. The #4 inlet stud came out quite easily which I guess was a good indication of where the oil was coming from. I applied the thread sealer last night and boxed it all up to cure. Took the bike for 50 mile ride and no more drips on the floor.
Ross
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Congrats, Ross.
Only 50 miles? After diagnosing and solving a problem like this i would have been out for a couple tankfuls.
Only 50 miles? After diagnosing and solving a problem like this i would have been out for a couple tankfuls.
- SteveG
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Always feels good to diagnose and then fix. Good Job!!!
Steve
You could stop by the other side of the lake to fill up. Would love to see your spoked wheels.steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:Congrats, Ross.
Only 50 miles? After diagnosing and solving a problem like this i would have been out for a couple tankfuls.
Steve
82 CBX, 82 CB900F Project, 81 CB900(985)F, 79 CB750(810)F, 06 Wee-Strom
- NobleHops
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Fantastic news Ross. Can I put you up to detailing the fix? What products, how you prepped, etc...ajs350 wrote:Success! I could not find any Loctite thread sealer at my local auto parts store so bought the Permatex equivalent.
I tried to remove both the inlet and exhaust studs from #4 but the exhaust stud would not budge. The #4 inlet stud came out quite easily which I guess was a good indication of where the oil was coming from. I applied the thread sealer last night and boxed it all up to cure. Took the bike for 50 mile ride and no more drips on the floor.
Ross
N.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
Tucson, Arizona, USA
'82 CBX, among others.
- ajs350
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Nils, procedure was as follows:
First, blast the stud and tunnel #4 with brake cleaner to remove as much oil and debris as possible. Stuff a rag above the oil filter cover to stop cleaner going everywhere...............like your front fender!
Remove valve cover and acorn nut for #4 inlet stud.
Thread on another nut (I used one of the nuts that fastens the seat to the frame) followed by the acorn nut.
Tighten the 2 together and then undo the lower nut so that the stud begins to unscrew. Depending on your wrench you might need to remove #5 inlet cam cap to get proper leverage.
As the stud unwinds keep blasting with brake cleaner so that any crude does not fall in the hole once the stud clears the case.
Remove the stud and clean with a wire brush and more brake cleaner.
Apply your thread sealer to the lower stud theads. I used Permatex #59214 from Advance Auto Parts.
Install the stud and tighten with your wrench on the acorn nut.
Remove the 2 nuts.
Anneal the copper washer with a blow torch heating to cherry red and quenching in water.
Just to be sure no oil could get down the stud from the cylinder head I smeared a little Hondabond on each side of the washer and then torqued to 15ft lb.
The Permatex directions said nothing about curing but I left it over night anyway before starting it up and going for a ride.
Ross
First, blast the stud and tunnel #4 with brake cleaner to remove as much oil and debris as possible. Stuff a rag above the oil filter cover to stop cleaner going everywhere...............like your front fender!
Remove valve cover and acorn nut for #4 inlet stud.
Thread on another nut (I used one of the nuts that fastens the seat to the frame) followed by the acorn nut.
Tighten the 2 together and then undo the lower nut so that the stud begins to unscrew. Depending on your wrench you might need to remove #5 inlet cam cap to get proper leverage.
As the stud unwinds keep blasting with brake cleaner so that any crude does not fall in the hole once the stud clears the case.
Remove the stud and clean with a wire brush and more brake cleaner.
Apply your thread sealer to the lower stud theads. I used Permatex #59214 from Advance Auto Parts.
Install the stud and tighten with your wrench on the acorn nut.
Remove the 2 nuts.
Anneal the copper washer with a blow torch heating to cherry red and quenching in water.
Just to be sure no oil could get down the stud from the cylinder head I smeared a little Hondabond on each side of the washer and then torqued to 15ft lb.
The Permatex directions said nothing about curing but I left it over night anyway before starting it up and going for a ride.
Ross
- bikeymikey748
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
Ross,I held my breath when I started reading your post. Issues like these keep me awake nights.
Super job getting 'er done! Glad you didn't have to take off any more than you did.Excellent support from other members too...Go TEAM !
I mean, who doesn't like happy endings
ps. Seems a good point to verify anytime the motor is apart .
Super job getting 'er done! Glad you didn't have to take off any more than you did.Excellent support from other members too...Go TEAM !
I mean, who doesn't like happy endings
ps. Seems a good point to verify anytime the motor is apart .
- ajs350
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Re: Crank case to cylinder block oil leak
bikeymikey
Glad you enjoyed the post. As you can see many people gave suggestions and helped out which is why this site is so good. Without it I would have been stuck on many a problem and my CBX would be sputtering along with spongy brakes and dripping oil, along with a list of other issues I've been able to overcome with help from the guys here.
Good luck with your X and welcome to the site.
Ross
Glad you enjoyed the post. As you can see many people gave suggestions and helped out which is why this site is so good. Without it I would have been stuck on many a problem and my CBX would be sputtering along with spongy brakes and dripping oil, along with a list of other issues I've been able to overcome with help from the guys here.
Good luck with your X and welcome to the site.
Ross