restarting after years

59redfish · Post by **59redfish** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 3:30 pm

Hi,

New to the board. Just bought a 1980 Marysville, and I can't get it started.

It runs on ether in short bursts, but won't take fuel. I'm using a remote tank with a line tee'd into both hoses leading into the carbs, thus eliminating the vacuum diaphragm. I've taken the drain plug from the end carb and no fuel is coming through. Are the couple seconds that the engine is running on ether enough to begin to draw fuel? Where do I go from here? I don't want to introduce too much ether to the engine.

Thanks,

Dave.

beedub · Post by **beedub** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:24 pm

Based on what many people say, the intricacies of the carbs, and the bike sitting, you will probably have to take them off and clean them. there are some complex tiny passages that just won't ungum themselves once plugged by sitting.

good luck,

brian

Passx · Post by **Passx** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:29 am

Dave,

You're gonna have to pull the carbs and clean things well, also while your there you should set the float heights and make sure your floats are not stuck shut which it sounds like. Also check the float seats to make sure that they are screwed all the way in, my 80 had #1 about halfway out and had holed the #1 piston and this condition still existed after the PO had a local "performance" shop go through and repair, and B+B the motor.

Once you get the carbs out clean them thoroughly and pay particular attention to the idle jet, you should be able to squirt cleaner in the jet and have it come out of the idle mix screw hole with the screws out, this is only a .0135 in. hole so it is not easy and eye protection is recommended, don't ask how I know this. Be careful not to lose the spring and very small washers in the bottom of the idle screw holes when you take the screws out as well. Also look at the anti-backfire valve and replace it if it's not real pliable or has any holes,rips, etc. I would also suggest that if there is much varnish in the carbs which is probable you might want to save yourself some grief and just get some new float needles up front because they will probably have a problem as well.

Once this is done balance them well and enjoy. Hope this helps,

Steve P. #5220

59redfish · Post by **59redfish** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 8:25 pm

Thanks for the info. I guess I was just looking for confirmation that its time to pull the carbs. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing. Today, I took off the accelerator pump diapraghm covers on each end, and removed the sleeves to see if I could make any determinations. Yellow gummy stuff down the length of the needles, and I would imagine the rest of the carb(s) will be consistent. Not as bad as I thought, but I guess it doesn't take much to make things sticky. I'm gonna unhinge her tomorrow and get ready to surgitate on the carbs.

Thanks again! Good resource you folks have here!

I'll be bock.

broook · Post by **broook** » Sun Mar 28, 2004 7:15 am

Yamaha carb cleaner is the best you can get if you live in the USA.

If you live in Canada you will have to get somebody to get it for you.

I have only used it once but most of the members use it consistently.

59redfish · Post by **59redfish** » Sun Mar 28, 2004 7:08 pm

Well, I sacrificed a beautiful day (which is rare in NE Ohio) of riding the Supermagna to lower the engine on the X. Not really a hard procedure, and the way I see it, much easier than not lowering it. I took off the bowls one at a time and I can't believe

the crud inside. I didn't think stuff that big could fit through the filler hole in the top of the tank! .And the throttle cable- hanging on by one last unsevered strand!!!. I guess the fun now begins. I think I'm going to go for the Dynojet kit and the K & N separates for ease of tuning in the future. Based on the way some of the screws have come out, I think allen bolts are in order for the bowls and diaphragm covers, too. Any other tricks I should do elsewhere while they're out and the engine is hanging?

broook · Post by **broook** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 6:34 am

Good time to check your valve settings. Lot easier to replace the cam cover with the engine down. Just be careful with the tack drive.

When you have the cover off, manually adjust your cam chains. Should be able to find the procedure somewhere in the tech tips.

E Lee · Post by **E Lee** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 9:59 am

Be careful with the Jet Kit, specially stage 3.

Even with the K&N, way to rich.

Tilting is not all that bad once you have done it a few times but you might be able to save some time in the future by:

I used extended bolts to secure my float bowls, sort of like the old Micky Thompson car valve cover extensions.

They extend down below the bowls so you can reach in to remove and replace. Helps when need to adjust that one float just a little and or change a jets.

Does not look that bad.

Later,

Ed Lee