Discharging Indicator

[JoeReid]

Thanks for the advice Rick. I rode my CBX 2200 miles since purchasing it in July 2009 and changed the oil after my first 75 miles, enough to get the oil thouroughly warm and all the crap in suspension. I use Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 because it is a full synthetic and has 1600 PPM of ZDDP in the additive package. I had the oil I drained analyzed and found all parameters within universal averages except calcium and magnesium both of which were less than 10% above average. Both are part of the detergent/dispersant additive package used in Mobil 1, indicating that the oil probably had been changed relatively recently. I try to ride/drive all of my rolling stock regularly. Never longer than a month which is sometimes difficult in NJ because I don't take them out unless it has rained since the last salt application. My CBX runs extremely well, smooth at <1000 rpm idle, outstanding through gentle acceleration up to 5000 rpm which is my normal shift point and unbelieveably strong from there to redline when the opportunity presents itself. I would like to keep it running that way and since I am intimidated by the carburetors, regular use and Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel is my solution. I bought Mike Nixon's carb book and now feel I could do the job if necessary, I'd rather not, riding is more fun then wrenching. Long story short, I don't think the clutch drag is my fault and I also think I'll not do anything about it for now but would like to find out if others have the same symptom and if and how they solved the problem.

Your interest and response is greatly appreciated.

Joe

[George R. Garrison #0857]

JoeReid, George Garrison here. I'm in Delaware and not a huge distance away from you. Delaware's next only to Rhode Island for being small. But, I reside at the southern most point on the Maryland border not far from Ocean City.

I was in Basking Ridge years ago, purchasing parts at the local airport.

You did not mention the year of your CBX. I have (2) 81 Prolinks,, one of which I bought new and also have a 1975 Gold Wing that I purchased new in 1975. The wing has a black WindJammer III fairing with lowers and radio in Vetter audio module.

I haven't experienced the clutch drag, but with residual buildup and thick oil, along with colder than normal conditions I can see it happening. Regular running and a couple oil filter changes with probably help.

I hope you did not have as much snow as we did. For our area this is a rough year at best. One of my storage building collapsed under the snow load. Unable to get inside yet to access the damage.

Hope our paths cross in the future and welcome to the forum. I'm basically stupid next to most of the guys on here.

If you have a question or a problem, they will answer it. Great bunch of people.

Later, George in Delaware

PS: Sorry I highjacked the post,, just couldn"t help myself,, cold cabin fever.

[JoeReid]

George, Please call me at 908-766-7174 and leave your phone number on the answering machine. I have some off topic things I'd like to discuss with you but it should be on my nickle. Thanks.

Joe

[alimey4u2]

I love a happy ending...

[George R. Garrison #0857]

Joe, Thanks for the response,, I'll call and leave my number tommorow.

As I mentioned before, I had a roof collapse last week on a storage shed. The building 12 x 32 was a storage area for one CBX and the 75 Gold Wing. I never thought this structure would be a problem and was constructed new 10 years ago to the local building code.

Our snow fall was severe and there was in excess of 2 ft of snow on the roof. It did collapse in the midst of the storm on to both motorcycles.

For the past week we could not get in the building due to snow and ice. The insurance company engaged a disaster recovery firm to cover the building and apply heat for the last 7 days to thaw the roof. Temp's in this area have hovered around 32 deg's most days and below that everynight this week.

Today, starting at 7am this morning with 3 construction people and myself working thru the day till around 5pm, we removed the roof in sections with a SAWSALL and removed the contents of the building including the two motorcycles.

I'll attempt to post some photos and at this point I've been unable to fully evaluate the damage.

One thing to keep in mind. Nationwide covered everything except the bikes. The policy states that any motorized vehicle needs seperate coverage and is not covered by homeowners coverage for an out building that is not attached to the home structure. Exceptions would be lawn equipment.

Neither of the bikes where tagged and have been uninsured for several years. I just assumed they'd be covered for something like this. But, guess what, this is something in the insurance thing that most people should look into.

I hope your winter experience is better than mine today.

Later, George in Delaware

PS : Larry, maybe not the happy ending we wished for.

[NobleHops]

One thing to keep in mind. Nationwide covered everything except the bikes. The policy states that any motorized vehicle needs seperate coverage and is not covered by homeowners coverage for an out building that is not attached to the home structure. Exceptions would be lawn equipment.

Ahhh, George, that sucks mightily.

Very sorry to learn about your situation. Hope the damage is not too bad. I'm not a litigious sort, but a 10-year old roof is not supposed to collapse. We get 2 feet of snow on our roofs in New England most every year. I'd consider seeing if you'd have any recourse with the construction company's insurers.

I've had some less-than-satisfactory dealings with my insurers recently and have come to the conclusion that an adversarial relationship is all that is called for when dealing with them. They frankly suck.

N.

[JoeReid]

I found an intermittant connection in the green wire to the instrument cluster. It seems to be in that wire as it disappears into the harness where the harness is attached to the fairing frame. Since I did not want to cut into the harness at that point I just ran a separate wire to the negative battery terminal. Now the volt meter reads whenever the key is in the ON position as it is supposed to, according to the diagram. I still don't understand why the direction signal indicator lights go on when the ground wire is lifted and the original green wire is wiggled until the volt meter reads minimum but I really don't care enough to persue the issue. In case someone knows the answer I would be interested in finding the solution the easy way.

Thanks to all who posted info to this thread. Your effort is greatly appreciate.

[Don]

The flasher filaments of the front turn signals and the dash indicators are grounded by the TS switch when they are not flashing . . . . your missing ground allows the voltage for the running light filaments in the TS bulbs to also light the flasher filaments and the dash indicators even though neither is powered through the switch - If you pulled the leads for the running lights, the others would go out too . . . . better to just fix the missing ground

Don

[JoeReid]

Thanks Don, I am very fortunate to have recources like you to help me understand how this outstanding bike works and the weather is finally getting better so I will be able to enjoy it more often.

Snow and Salt are nasty four letter words.

Joe