Running lights/blinkers
- spencer
- ICOA Member
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- Location: Rochester, MN
- Location: Rochester, MN
Well, they would be pretty cheap, I think.
At the time I posted, I had only swapped the rear turn signals. Yesterday, I decided to do the fronts. I ran into a problem. Honda did something I really did not expect. Over night I figured out a way to fix it, and as of today, all four of my signals are LEDs.
This project was a joint undertaking by me and Don Miller. I have to say I did most of the work, but it was Don's idea. We ordered 50 circuit boards. Twenty five for each of us. That's enough for each of us to make six sets. I used one set on my CBX, and Don is planning to do the same, so we each have enough boards and LEDs to make five more sets. We talked about how much we would charge if anyone else wanted a set. I decided that I would sell a set of the four boards for $75, including shipping.
As I said, I had a hard time finding a suitable flasher. I think I went through 5 or 6 before I found one which works reliably. If you want me to supply one of those flashers, it will be another $20. Mine cost me $18.99. If you want to get your own flasher, I will tell you where I got mine. If you already have a suitable one, then all you need is the circuit boards.
At $75 a set, I will never come close to recovering what it cost, especially since I now have a box of useless flashers. I think the materials alone are probably worth at least $70. I don't know just how long you would have to wait for them. Probably a couple of weeks. I don't have any more made. It takes several hours to assemble a set of four. It's a labor of love, not profit making.
As a result of the problem I ran into yesterday, I have to order a few more parts, but it should not take long to get them.
As for payment, I'm open to most anything. I use PayPal to buy things, but I have never used it to sell anything. I think there is a fee to use it. Not that I am a skinflint, but I think I am already losing money, so I'd rather not use any form of payment that costs me more money. I suppose an extra $5 would cover the fee for PayPal. I have not really checked to see what it costs.
When my five sets are gone, I probably won't have any more, unless there is enough demand to warrant ordering more boards. Don will have his five available too. I have no problem if you would rather buy from him.
When Don first came up with this idea, I was not too enthusiastic, but I went through the process of designing them, because I thought it might be fun. Now that I have them installed, I like them. I think they are a little brighter than the stock signals, and they use a lot less power, if that is important to you. They do look a little different, but not too much. The picture in the above post is a pretty good indication of what they look like.
Did you like the flashing GIF?
At the time I posted, I had only swapped the rear turn signals. Yesterday, I decided to do the fronts. I ran into a problem. Honda did something I really did not expect. Over night I figured out a way to fix it, and as of today, all four of my signals are LEDs.
This project was a joint undertaking by me and Don Miller. I have to say I did most of the work, but it was Don's idea. We ordered 50 circuit boards. Twenty five for each of us. That's enough for each of us to make six sets. I used one set on my CBX, and Don is planning to do the same, so we each have enough boards and LEDs to make five more sets. We talked about how much we would charge if anyone else wanted a set. I decided that I would sell a set of the four boards for $75, including shipping.
As I said, I had a hard time finding a suitable flasher. I think I went through 5 or 6 before I found one which works reliably. If you want me to supply one of those flashers, it will be another $20. Mine cost me $18.99. If you want to get your own flasher, I will tell you where I got mine. If you already have a suitable one, then all you need is the circuit boards.
At $75 a set, I will never come close to recovering what it cost, especially since I now have a box of useless flashers. I think the materials alone are probably worth at least $70. I don't know just how long you would have to wait for them. Probably a couple of weeks. I don't have any more made. It takes several hours to assemble a set of four. It's a labor of love, not profit making.
As a result of the problem I ran into yesterday, I have to order a few more parts, but it should not take long to get them.
As for payment, I'm open to most anything. I use PayPal to buy things, but I have never used it to sell anything. I think there is a fee to use it. Not that I am a skinflint, but I think I am already losing money, so I'd rather not use any form of payment that costs me more money. I suppose an extra $5 would cover the fee for PayPal. I have not really checked to see what it costs.
When my five sets are gone, I probably won't have any more, unless there is enough demand to warrant ordering more boards. Don will have his five available too. I have no problem if you would rather buy from him.
When Don first came up with this idea, I was not too enthusiastic, but I went through the process of designing them, because I thought it might be fun. Now that I have them installed, I like them. I think they are a little brighter than the stock signals, and they use a lot less power, if that is important to you. They do look a little different, but not too much. The picture in the above post is a pretty good indication of what they look like.
Did you like the flashing GIF?
SCH Rochester, MN
- Don
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- Location: Biloxi, Mississippi, USA
I'll chime in here to add that $100 for a set including flasher and a small fee to cover the PayPal is really a bargain - This is only possible because we bought hundreds of components in large quantities . . . . enough to complete all 50 boards in one purchase and we ordered direct from overseas. If you bought the components individually, I'm sure just the parts would run near $100, not to mention the cost of the circuit boards or the assembly process
As to Spencer's comment that they look slightly 'different' - If you illuminate one of your stock turn signals so that it's constantly on, you will see that it has a 'dead spot' at the stem location. This is where the bulb socket is so there's less light coming from that area. These LED signals are equally brilliant all the way around the lens . . . . as they should be. The second big difference is that the LED's give you an 'instant on' and also an 'instant off' which is quite a distinctive look - Tungsten filament bulbs light up rather slowly as the filament heats up and then they go off slowly too as the filament cools off . . . . you've probaly unconsciously noticed that 'difference' on some of the newer cars which have LED signals. It's a bit of a safety issue for brakelights as the 'instant on' gives the driver behind you an extra quarter to half second of reaction time in real world conditions - At 88 feet per second (60 MPH) that extra time translates into 30 or 40 feet . . . . maybe enough extra room to keep someone from hitting you from behind. For turn signals, it just looks neat
I would prefer any interested parties to buy from Spencer while he has them available . . . . for two reasons. First, I'd like to make sure he gets as much of his investment back as possible (because I talked him into this money-losing operation) and second because he does neater work than I do ;)
You won't be disappointed with these - Spencer's engineering of the circuit boards was done using several trials until he got the very best illumination pattern possible and we opted to use high power, half watt LED's to ensure the brightest turn signal possible. Completely stock look (better than stock actually) VERY bright, very low current draw compared to the stock bulbs and they should outlast not only the CBX you initially put them on, but several more bikes as well - 100,000 hours is about the norm for most LED's
If this goes well and he sells the 5 sets he has left . . . . maybe, just maybe, we can talk him into building a new tail light using these same very bright half watt LED's ;)
Don
As to Spencer's comment that they look slightly 'different' - If you illuminate one of your stock turn signals so that it's constantly on, you will see that it has a 'dead spot' at the stem location. This is where the bulb socket is so there's less light coming from that area. These LED signals are equally brilliant all the way around the lens . . . . as they should be. The second big difference is that the LED's give you an 'instant on' and also an 'instant off' which is quite a distinctive look - Tungsten filament bulbs light up rather slowly as the filament heats up and then they go off slowly too as the filament cools off . . . . you've probaly unconsciously noticed that 'difference' on some of the newer cars which have LED signals. It's a bit of a safety issue for brakelights as the 'instant on' gives the driver behind you an extra quarter to half second of reaction time in real world conditions - At 88 feet per second (60 MPH) that extra time translates into 30 or 40 feet . . . . maybe enough extra room to keep someone from hitting you from behind. For turn signals, it just looks neat
I would prefer any interested parties to buy from Spencer while he has them available . . . . for two reasons. First, I'd like to make sure he gets as much of his investment back as possible (because I talked him into this money-losing operation) and second because he does neater work than I do ;)
You won't be disappointed with these - Spencer's engineering of the circuit boards was done using several trials until he got the very best illumination pattern possible and we opted to use high power, half watt LED's to ensure the brightest turn signal possible. Completely stock look (better than stock actually) VERY bright, very low current draw compared to the stock bulbs and they should outlast not only the CBX you initially put them on, but several more bikes as well - 100,000 hours is about the norm for most LED's
If this goes well and he sells the 5 sets he has left . . . . maybe, just maybe, we can talk him into building a new tail light using these same very bright half watt LED's ;)
Don
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- Location: Gloucestershire, UK
- Location: Gloucestershire UK
HI spencer.
Any idea of the cost to post to UK (if you are willing), also I would not require the running light for the front indicators, (I could always leave them disconnected if this is easier for you).
I like the idea of these modern indicators in the original lamps.
I will arrange payment any way that suits you.
You can p.m. me or post a reply as and when you decide.
Cheers
Chris J.
Any idea of the cost to post to UK (if you are willing), also I would not require the running light for the front indicators, (I could always leave them disconnected if this is easier for you).
I like the idea of these modern indicators in the original lamps.
I will arrange payment any way that suits you.
You can p.m. me or post a reply as and when you decide.
Cheers
Chris J.
Grey-haired bikers don't get that way from pure luck.
- spencer
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 7:23 pm
- Location: Rochester, MN
- Location: Rochester, MN
I would be willing to send a set to the UK. Only thing is, I don't know anything about it. I've never sent anything to another country. I don't know how the cost would compare. Would I have to worry about customs, taxes, duties, or whatever?
I don't understand why you would not want the running light function. Didn't the European/UK models have that feature? I've never looked at a different country's schematic to know what's different.
I don't understand why you would not want the running light function. Didn't the European/UK models have that feature? I've never looked at a different country's schematic to know what's different.
SCH Rochester, MN
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Re: "Would I have to worry about customs, taxes, duties, or whatever?"
I sent a late model Corbin seat w/backrest to the UK once. On a low(er) dollar item you can underestimate its value and of course insure it for that amount. Only hitch is, if its lost in transit all you'll get is the amount insured for and declared prior to mailing. The buyer takes a hit on the declared value if its high. The seller takes the hit if its insured/declared for a lower than actual value only if its lost in transit. If you say its worth only $20 he pays much less than if you say its worth $120 for example.
I felt bad for the buyer of my seat, not knowing him even thru a forum. He just answered an ad. In the event that it did get lost or the buyer, whom I didn't know, claimed it didn't arrive or arrived damaged etc, if I had underestimated the value of it, I would have lost money in the deal. As it turned out, even with the buyer paying the fees for its declared value (then, around $400 as I recall) he still paid far less than if he had bought it from Corbin.
I sent a late model Corbin seat w/backrest to the UK once. On a low(er) dollar item you can underestimate its value and of course insure it for that amount. Only hitch is, if its lost in transit all you'll get is the amount insured for and declared prior to mailing. The buyer takes a hit on the declared value if its high. The seller takes the hit if its insured/declared for a lower than actual value only if its lost in transit. If you say its worth only $20 he pays much less than if you say its worth $120 for example.
I felt bad for the buyer of my seat, not knowing him even thru a forum. He just answered an ad. In the event that it did get lost or the buyer, whom I didn't know, claimed it didn't arrive or arrived damaged etc, if I had underestimated the value of it, I would have lost money in the deal. As it turned out, even with the buyer paying the fees for its declared value (then, around $400 as I recall) he still paid far less than if he had bought it from Corbin.
Ride em if ya got em....
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spencer and joner: I can take a set with me on an upcoming trip to Germany and mail them to joner from there. Cost for that will be next to nothing. Mailing stuff from the U.S. to Europe is relatively expensive as the U.S. mail has done away with a lot of economic services.
You can use the web-site to determine cost once you have the weight
http://www.usps.com/
You can use the web-site to determine cost once you have the weight
http://www.usps.com/
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- Location: Gloucestershire UK
Hi EMS and Spencer.
Thanks for the offer Mike.
If you are agreeable with that Spencer, I would like a set of the indicator units, and will pay you as soon as you are ready.
I will also pay you EMS as soon as you want.
Cheers
Chris J.
p.s. Mike are you coming to the Euro Rally, if so I owe you a Large drink for this offer.
Thanks for the offer Mike.
If you are agreeable with that Spencer, I would like a set of the indicator units, and will pay you as soon as you are ready.
I will also pay you EMS as soon as you want.
Cheers
Chris J.
p.s. Mike are you coming to the Euro Rally, if so I owe you a Large drink for this offer.
Grey-haired bikers don't get that way from pure luck.
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Chris:
I would love to come to the rally. Don't know yet if I can make it. Can not do a separate trip just for this and would have to combine it with other travels. I actually need to see Larry Benjamin again, listening to Geoff Smale telling stories is worth the trip from wherever you are, and I would want to have an eye on Louis to make sure he behaves. You know, he is going crazy over that warm beer.....
I would love to come to the rally. Don't know yet if I can make it. Can not do a separate trip just for this and would have to combine it with other travels. I actually need to see Larry Benjamin again, listening to Geoff Smale telling stories is worth the trip from wherever you are, and I would want to have an eye on Louis to make sure he behaves. You know, he is going crazy over that warm beer.....