Discharging Indicator

[alimey4u2]

Sound like a poltergeist to me.

Joe

Nahhhh ...Electric Eels...

[George R. Garrison #0857]

On the old truck,, the reverse current relay was stuck shut in the voltage regulator. It was discharging thru the generator.

I don't know how the headlights would make the coil hot until turned off. That one has me stumped. Would the truck start with the lights off?

Later, Georg in Delaware

[Terry]

On the old truck,, the reverse current relay was stuck shut in the voltage regulator. It was discharging thru the generator.

I don't know how the headlights would make the coil hot until turned off. That one has me stumped. Would the truck start with the lights off?

Later, Georg in Delaware

How come the relay stuck shut only next to a river? It hadn't been sitting there long either. I could drive up onto a levee road and shut it off and the amp guage stayed neutral. Down by the river's edge, as soon as the motor was shut off the amp guage discharged all the way. And yes, the motor started with the light switch off but wouldn't turn off with just the key (if the lights were on) until I pushed the headlight switch off.

[Rick Pope]

Terry,

When you parked next to the river, was the truck level? Sounds like it wasn't, and that old wiring harness had some wires rubbed bare. Gravity + electricity do strange things.

[JoeReid]

Well I finally got a chance to diagnose my charging system. Rode 25 miles yesterday with both direction signal indicators lights on and the volt meter reading 8 volts all the time and they were the same when I got back home. I got off keeping the engine running then attached my digital volt meter across the main (30 amp) fuse. At idle the reading was -.019 volts which should equate to about -5 amps, just about the same as the drain on the battery with the key on with the engine not running. As the RPM was increaed the voltage across the shunt(fuse) turned positive at just over idle and went up to +. 26 at about 5000 RPM and the voltage across the battery was 14.4. This indicates to me that the charging system is working properly and the problem lies with the indicators (lights and meter or the wiring supplying them. I will report more as the diagnosis proceeds but it may be a while because we received 17 inches of snow today.

Joe.

[alimey4u2]

Good stuff Joe....

[JoeReid]

I removed and took the back off the gauge cluster. Applied power from a regulated variable voltage power supply to the volt meter. The following is the calibration I recorded:

Digital volt meter readings CBX Voltmeter reading
8.5 9.8
9.0 10.0
10.0 10.7
11.0 11.7
12.0 12.2
13.0 12.9
14.0 13.3
14.75 14.0

All the indicators light appropriate when the correct wires on the connectors are powered. I guess my problem must be in the harness.

Joe

[JoeReid]

Where is the speed sensor that appears on the electrical diagram to be in the speedometer. Not only does my '82 not have any place to connect the pink wire but there are no power or ground connections other than the illumination bulbs. Any ideas?

[alimey4u2]

Where is the speed sensor that appears on the electrical diagram to be in the speedometer. Not only does my '82 not have any place to connect the pink wire but there are no power or ground connections other than the illumination bulbs. Any ideas?

That is not a Prolink speedo. Prolink speedo has three wires coming out of a top right hole (looking at the back). Pink,green & black/brown.... This is in addition to the illumination circuits...

Hope this helps....

[alimey4u2]

This is a Prolink speedo....

[EMS]

That is not a Prolink speedo. ...

Probably some mileage adjustment by a previous owner...
or a 150mph instrument?? People want to know how fast they are going

[alimey4u2]

You're right Mike, why I didn't buy one when they were still available I don't know. I think they were about $250 in the mid 90's....

[JoeReid]

Thanks for the info gentlemen. It is 150 MPH full scale. I guess the Pro-Link speedos were 85MPH max like cars of that vintage. Should the rear suspension air pressure warning light still function? I'm not sure it is necessary in my case because the shock does not leak and I check it along with the tires monthly. I have never seen another CBX up close and personal, at least since I have been interested in them. Is there a way to find other CBX owners in northern New Jersey? I would really like to see other CBXs just to compare how mine works and looks. For example my clutch drags just enough so it is difficult to select neutral from either 1st or 2nd gear when the bike is fully warm and idling. Is that normal or abnormal but not unusual. My '75 naked Goldwing does it too. Both bikes shift normally when moving and engagement is smooth. I can't make either clutch slip in top gear either. I have made the adjustments at both ends of the cables accordiing to the service manuals. It is not a problem if you select 1st gear just before coming to a stop but I was interested in knowing if others experience the same symptom.

Joe

[Rick Pope]

Joe,
there are quite a few members in your general area. Hopefully, sometime this year, we'll have a members directory printed in an issue of the CBXPress.

You dragging clutch may be a function of your oil choice. Are you running a heavy oil? Do you ride the bikes often? If the bike has been sitting, it will be worse until you've logged a few miles and wiped the discs clean of the old residue. I've found that a good multi-grade synthetic really helps.

[EMS]

The non-Prolink speedos do not have the wiring to make the rear suspension light work. Normally, it would be on all the time now. Someone may have taken the bulb out or disconnected a wire.