Alternator Article Research

[Jim-Jim]

I am working on a comprehensive article on the CBX charging system. I need to ask all of the member base for factual input to help build the article. For starters, I would like to know the details of any fix that definitely corrected a charging problem. For instance, if reconnecting the cable connectors got it going -or- replacing the rotor, etc. I'm not particularly interested if you fixed your problem by wholesale replacement of parts (unless you determined what part was to blame after the fact). Did replacing the brushes fix a problem or did they get replaced just because you were in there and they were worn?

I would like to know if any of the owners (with an 'X' with more than 25K miles) have ever replaced the clutch plates, with or without the spring to correct a 'charging' problem. How worn were the plates?

C'mon, guys, let's all chip in to help put some accuracy into the upcoming article on the CBX charging system. Some are quick to ask for help when they need it, I need some help and I'm quick to ask for it now.

One of the best inputs for statistics is 'actual experience' of owners who have solved the problems with the alternator charging system.

[chevok]

Jim,



I had one of the typical brush problems on one of my '82s---the bike would show a charge on the voltmeter if the RPM was below 3K--above that it showed a discharge. Replacing the brushes fixed the problem.



Now the other '82 has a problem where it shows a great charge on the voltmeter UNTIL you press the horn or press on the brake (for the brake light), then the voltmeter takes a wicked dive to the left. I've swapped out the regulator without any luck. Any ideas anyone?

[Jim-Jim]

Ken,

Thanks for the input - what was the mileage on the old brushes? I'm trying to set up an average life for a set of brushes. Do you keep records?

As for your problem with the 'dive' on the voltmeter - it is NOT the regulator (want to sell the old one?). You have a direct short to ground somewhere in the wiring layout. I've looked at the wiring diagram and do not see a common point for the two circuits so I think you should start pulling body panels off (tank, side panels, seat, etc) and look for a 'pinch point' where the cables run around corners. If the failure is SOLID (fails every time you press the horn/brake), I would press the horn, watch the voltmeter, and move the cable to see if the meter goes back to 12V. Don't hold down the horn button too long, be VERY BRIEF!!! or you will burn up the line that is shorted. This can be tricky but you need to find the short where it is, so wiggle and test, wiggle and test. Did you do any kind of work just before this started? Maybe something got 'pinched' under a nut or bolt or pressed into a corner. This can be a hard one to find but a little preserverance will find it. Good luck and let us know for the record!

[chevok]

Jim,



I'll see if I can figure out an approx mileage on those brushes. As for the 'other' regulator, it came off my other '82...

[RIPPER]

I am not an electrician and am having problems with my alternator covered in another post but I've been told the diving volts is normally due to high resistance from poor connections either corroded or dirty.Being our bikes are 20 years old,this makes sense to me as I'm having the same problem.

[Passx]

Jim,



The only experience that I have had electrically has been the following:



My 80 when I aquired it had 12500mi mostly 1/4 mile at a time and I replaced the brushes with one being worn to about 3/16 in and the other being about 3/4 length of new, I had no charging problems but was concerned due to the reputation and was in there anyway, I also resurfaced the clutch plates and reshimmed them to compensate for the material removed. One thing I might add is that that the motor side plate I.D. was rubbing on the alt. side retaining nut and had rounded the edges of the nut off, but again I had no charging issues although it had the typical ride it for a while before it starts to charge thing going on. It currently still needs to be ridden before it starts to charge and shows about 13.7 volts when it is.



My 81 currently has around 18500 miles on it and hasn't been touch although the alternator gives me the "ratchet sound" regularly with the usual drop in charging volts but works well otherwise and shows about 13 volts when charging and also requires the pre-requisite ride a distance to charge thing.



On both of the X's and my 76 Wing I have had to remove the main fuse holder with the soft lead like link fuse, and replace it with a 30 amp bayonet type as all had started to melt or puffed the order it and wait Honda fuse. Hope this helps



Steve P. #5220