alimey4u2 wrote:Bob, I have the Honda CBX timing wheel if you need to borrow it....
OK, You have the two stages, 23.5 deg between 2200 & 2600 & then maximum advance of 32 deg @ 6400 rpm plus according to the 1979 manual..Which would be the 469A advancer....The 1980 revisions (which I would "assume" to be the 422 advancer) says 23.5 between 2300-2500 & 31 deg @ 5600 plus....
I am a little confused here, but the 1979 manual should refer to the 422 advancer, the 1980 revision should refer to the 469A advancer. The 469A advancer came out after introduction of the 1980 bike. 469A advancer is a dual stage advancer and came out sometime December of 1979 after engine-no SC03E- 2001773. All advancers installed up to this point were 469 units and single stage. The 469A is spefically matched to the 1980 cam timing and the carburetion of that year.
The official Honda "advancer curve" for the 469A is a "range curve". The upper curve is: 1degree @1200 to 26.5 @2300 to 24.5@ 5200 to 34 @5600-max. Lower curve: 1 degree@1400 to 10 @2000 to 23.5@2500 to 21.5@6400 to 31@7000-max. Sounds a little complicated, but maybe I can scan and post the diagram.
My understanding is that the 422 was from '79's. 469 in early '80's model then updated to 469A, which was used also in the 81 and 82 model.
Marks I make with soapstone line up at idle, 1000rpms. 1600rpm marks advance to 23-24 degree and a touch over 50 degrees around 3000rpm. I can throttle to 7000 and marks don't change, stay at about 50 degrees. When I throttle back down, marks line up again. Rev bike up and get same results.
Thanks for the offer of the timing wheel however with the adjustable timing light, probably doing same thing.
As I say bike is put away however if I cann't figure it out over the winter... there'll be some 'testing' next spring, checking for pinging and plug color.
Here's an update.
Replaced the battery with a sealed Yusa model and no trouble cranking. Bike turns over great either cold or hot. Checked timing many, many times and even replaced advancer but plugs were still white. Raised needles .016" however still white. So made up more shims at .035" and added to existing .016" to total .051". Bike ran like crap... barking out of pipes all the time and stumbling at low speed. So removed the .016", leaving the .035".
Now runs stronger than ever has and plugs are darker in color. Not sure how fuel consumption will be affected though. Still not sure what happened. Bike has stock carbs. Only aftermarket stuff would be a set of Supertrapps, K&N air filter and the air box (which I had to replace) had a few holes previously drilled into it for more airflow.
Whatever... it runs good now. Later this year take it out for a few more rides... want to use the FJR now that I've gotten the X fixed.
Thanks for everyones help!!!!
On a side note, anyone know for a clutch holding nut? Tried getting a new one but not available from Honda.
Great news Bobber... As for the clutch nut tool, If no luck, I read somewhere where one of our guys had made them by cutting out castellations in a suitable socket. There is a fellow in the UK who will make them in stainless who will ship internationally.... He's alot cheaper than the factory tool too...
alimey4u2 wrote:Great news Bobber... As for the clutch nut tool, If no luck, I read somewhere where one of our guys had made them by cutting out castellations in a suitable socket. There is a fellow in the UK who will make them in stainless who will ship internationally.... He's alot cheaper than the factory tool too...
Does he need the nut or the tool. Confused again, like at the top of the page
Its the actual nut... I have the factory tool.
Still cann't fully understand why I had to jet so rich in the mid. Top-end was rebuilt a while ago so maybe where its stronger needs more fuel along with the cut airbox and Supertrapps.
Did install an oil temp guage and temps seem to run about 80 Celcius. But sure heats up quick when at a light stopped in traffic!!! Just like a 'clock' climbing to about low ninety's then drops back down when riding,,, 'till next light. Did buy some full synthetic Motul... haven't changed oil yet.... later in year.
bobber wrote:Its the actual nut... I have the factory tool.
Still cann't fully understand why I had to jet so rich in the mid. Top-end was rebuilt a while ago so maybe where its stronger needs more fuel along with the cut airbox and Supertrapps.
I noticed mine seems to come on the cam/pipe at about 7500. Just feed it fuel where it needs it & don't worry...
The K&N filter is the culprit. It leans out most bikes to where there is at least a flat spot, if not the overall leaness you noticed. You did oil the K&N as per their instructions? If you were to go back to the stock air filter, I think you'd see that this is the case.
Intake changes on the CBX are not well tolerated by stock jetting. Going to individual K&Ns requires going up in the 120s on the main to run correctly. That is a huge increase in jetting. So not surprising that a more subtle change like the drop-in K&N would require some fiddling with the jetting.
I may have mentiond this before but both of my Xs have drop in K&N filters. The airbix lid on my Prolink is loose so it gets even more air and still, never a problem with jetting. Both bikes pull strong from 0 to redline.
EMS wrote:The 469A advancer came out after introduction of the 1980 bike. 469A advancer is a dual stage advancer and came out sometime December of 1979 after engine-no SC03E- 2001773. All advancers installed up to this point were 469 units and single stage. The 469A is spefically matched to the 1980 cam timing and the carburetion of that year.
My engine number is SC03E-2000336. Does that mean I have a 469 advancer, and if yes, should I take any action on this tidbit? If I were to eyeball the advancer, would I see a number on it (469 vs 469A) in order to verify this factoid? Please elucidate further, and as always, TIA for your sagacity...
Bill Denton
Yardley, PA
wkdenton@verizon.net
Lazarus Cycleworks, LLC
We Breathe New Life into Old Bikes
Bill:
Your engine # is probably high enough that it got changed at the factory or by the dealer. Easy enough to check, just remove the pulser and the # is stamped on the advancer.
As for the clutch nut tool, If no luck, I read somewhere where one of our guys had made them by cutting out castellations in a suitable socket. There is a fellow in the UK who will make them in stainless who will ship internationally.... He's alot cheaper than the factory tool too...
