Right side switch assembly
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- Tom Neimeyer
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Observation....maybe correct.
Guys, Gals, Friends, Neighbors and Countrymen, Hear Hear!!!!
It is my opinion and belief that the original (early production) '79 CBXs control pods utilized a "plastic" pin to correctly position the control pod on the handle bar. At some point, Honda pulled their head out and started to use a metal insert with a metal pin (see pic in above post).
Now a word of warning, when you are installing the control pod, make sure the pin is in the hole before you tighten the screws. If you do not, it is possible to break the metal insert and cause an improper fit of the pod to the handle bar.
And lastly, those that attempt to custom fit a different handle bar arrangement to their CBX and continue to use the original pods with the pins need to exercise caution as some bars do not have holes or the holes are not in the proper position. Some people just grind the "pin" off the metal insert and then can place the pod where ever they want. So when you are purchasing that custom CBX with the cool bars, keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat and to get a control pod to fit on a handlebar.
Cheers, Tom
It is my opinion and belief that the original (early production) '79 CBXs control pods utilized a "plastic" pin to correctly position the control pod on the handle bar. At some point, Honda pulled their head out and started to use a metal insert with a metal pin (see pic in above post).
Now a word of warning, when you are installing the control pod, make sure the pin is in the hole before you tighten the screws. If you do not, it is possible to break the metal insert and cause an improper fit of the pod to the handle bar.
And lastly, those that attempt to custom fit a different handle bar arrangement to their CBX and continue to use the original pods with the pins need to exercise caution as some bars do not have holes or the holes are not in the proper position. Some people just grind the "pin" off the metal insert and then can place the pod where ever they want. So when you are purchasing that custom CBX with the cool bars, keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat and to get a control pod to fit on a handlebar.
Cheers, Tom
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Drill a new hole for the pin if you use custom bars . . . . or if you use slightly longer bars with the sportkit throttles and you need to rotate things a bit to make the throttle cables fit correctly
As long as the pin is still functional, you don't need to tighten the bejeebus out of the screws to make things stay where they belong
Don
As long as the pin is still functional, you don't need to tighten the bejeebus out of the screws to make things stay where they belong
Don
- Tom Neimeyer
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Control Freak
A long time ago in this thread I ask Terry which side was broke. He responded but before I could check to see what I had and offer a replacement, others stepped up. And then the thread twisted and turned and we are here. I will show some broken pins, a good metal pin and a good plastic pin for future reference. When I looked at these today, at least 30 percent have broken pins, it is very common.
Cheers, Tom
Cheers, Tom
- Tom Neimeyer
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How many
Too many that were neglected by previous owners, bought most as parts bikes after they were messed up, some were parted out, some brought back to life, but about 13 total. At one time had 6 nice daily drivers.
In that pile, there were 4 sport kit pods and 3 European left side pods (for passing button) overall about 28 and when I went to put them up, I found another box with 6 more.
Trying to do some house cleaning, sold my CT-90 and CT-110 today.
In that pile, there were 4 sport kit pods and 3 European left side pods (for passing button) overall about 28 and when I went to put them up, I found another box with 6 more.
Trying to do some house cleaning, sold my CT-90 and CT-110 today.
- cbxtacy
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I don't think my switch has a pin or a hole in the handlebar for one. Waiting to fully remove it when I get the replacement. To unplug it from the headlght do I have to remove the gauges and loosen the headlight/remove the back cover? I've had the front end off and the gauges off before but never messed with the wiring in the back of the headlight.
It ain't the destination, its the journey...
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Terry:
If your bars are stock - they have a locating hole for the switch pin. If yours is an early '79 it would have had the plastic pin as Tom describes. Once they shear off, there is almost no evidence a pin was ever there. You can drill a hole where the pin should be and insert a home-made one. But that won't help you as you have other issues.
You just need to remove the headlight to access the wiring plug for the switch - no need to remove the instruments. Be carefull not to break the tab off of the headlight case on the top when you remove the headlight. Many of those break as the plastic gets old and brittle. Give the headlight a slight twist counter-clockwise to clear the tab.
Dave
If your bars are stock - they have a locating hole for the switch pin. If yours is an early '79 it would have had the plastic pin as Tom describes. Once they shear off, there is almost no evidence a pin was ever there. You can drill a hole where the pin should be and insert a home-made one. But that won't help you as you have other issues.
You just need to remove the headlight to access the wiring plug for the switch - no need to remove the instruments. Be carefull not to break the tab off of the headlight case on the top when you remove the headlight. Many of those break as the plastic gets old and brittle. Give the headlight a slight twist counter-clockwise to clear the tab.
Dave