Spark Plug Changing Helper

Larry Zimmer · Post by **Larry Zimmer** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:18 pm

When removing and reinstalling plugs, especially with the tank in place, they can be a pain to get out and back in with the plug wrech. Not very easy, either, tring to use your fingers. I found that lipping a rubber vacuum nipple cap over the ends after loosening makes it much easier. And, you get much better 'feel' to restart the new plugs in the threads. AND, no crossthreading as you might do starting new plugs back in with a wrench. Here's a couple pics. Your can find the pics in the photo gallery, too. The cap is for a 3/8" vacuum nipple about an inch long. Probably have one somewhere in your tool box.
Good luck. Worked great for me.

An extra for plug changing: If you have a compressor, blow the loose crap away from the plugs before loosening, as many/most of you know. Additionally, after loosening one turn, blow again. Often, there is crap stuck around the plugs that gets knocked loose when you put the wrench in there and turn the plug. Stuff that dosn't come out with the initial blast. The old-timer trick was to loosen the plugs a couple turns; and, then, turn the engine over a half-dozen times with the starter to let the cylinder compression blow by the plug threads to help clear the junk. I prefer the compressor hose.

cbxtacy · Post by **cbxtacy** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:08 pm

works great on V12 CBX's also http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd0w5cNo64k to get it in took two people on the V12. One to turn it from one side and one to line up the spark plug with the plug hole with two screwdrivers from the other side. It's somewhat a tight fit.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:03 pm

I'll try that Larry, thanks....

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:12 pm

cbxtacy wrote:works great on V12 CBX's also to get it in took two people on the V12. .

I thought, it would take five people: one to hold the plug and four, to turn the V12

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:27 pm

Another tip for applying anti seize. I use a tiny model car type paint brush, about 1/4" wide and very thinly apply the silver stuff so that there is no excess and no silver goo on my fingers!

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:23 am

Terry wrote:Another tip for applying anti seize. I use a tiny model car type paint brush, about 1/4" wide and very thinly apply the silver stuff so that there is no excess and no silver goo on my fingers!

Susan can tell when I've used anti-seize. I have it on my face, my clothes, my coffee mug........

cbxtacy · Post by **cbxtacy** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:19 am

Strange places to use it Rick, I like to use it on threads.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 1:10 pm

I have found the silver ( which I think is Zinc based) to be substandard compared with the copper based anti seize compounds. Especially under high heat duty...

I have found "Copper Kote" & "Copa Slip" to be the best for plug duty. However, I'm sure we all have our faves....

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:31 pm

I've had it pointed out to me that different anti-seize compounds are better suited for different applications. For instance, it's better to use the copper based compound for stainless/aluminum, and especially stainless/stainless.

I would guess that someone's website explains it all, perhaps the official Permatex site.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:30 am

That would explain it Rick, all my applications involve aluminum and/or stainless...

I spose I'm a non ferrous kinda guy...

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:59 am

Stainless steel fasteners are tricky. I try not to use them in critical applications and where regular checking is difficult.