'80 Maintenance - "Leaking" Ignition Module

[John S. (5594)]

Hi Folks,

With a storm coming in - I'm finally getting around to sorting the carburation on the "new" '80 A Model. While the carbs are off I plan on installing a K&N Stage I kit - doubtful that proper adjustment of the pilot screws alone could correct the factory lean mixture (and the planned addition of a K&N air filter would worsen this).

From my reading and previous experience - I also wanted to rebuild the airbox. The OEM sealing material becomes brittle with age and with little or no provocation large pieces come loose to be digested by the motor. Though doubtful it would really damage things - I do not like to see motors ingest debris. A poor pic of just some of the junk easlily broken off with my finger tips (did I mention that stuff is sharp?):



And while the engine is down - I will also remove the cam cover and check the valve clearances and cam chain tension - a lot easier to do in this state. With under 3k miles on the bike it's doubtful anything is far off - just enjoy poking around I suppose.

Before getting started - I also noticed a small pool of black "potting compound" on the top of the plastic catch (storage) tank. Though the bike was running well - it appears that the ignition module could have some problems. My experience with non-CBX electrical components leads me to suspect that the module is generating excessive heat. Another crappy pic:



I do recall reading a post (somewhere) on this - any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Lastly - I have a new 422A advancer collecting dust. This bike currently has the correct 469A advancer installed. Without dropping in the '79 cams I also have (and I am tempted) - will the '79 advancer offer any "real world" performance improvement? Maybe I should re-read "In Search of the 11 Second CBX". And really - would a few more ponies in the upper rev range make the bike more enjoyable to ride? Never mind :)

All the best - and thanks in advance for any advice,

John

PS - Maybe I'll see about a one-tooth larger countershaft sprocket for this bike - where the heck is sixth gear on these things anyway :)

[sr71cbx]

John,
It seems that the OEM issue igniter unit had their electrics encased in some kind of epoxy or rubber-type substance that liquefies over a lengthy period of time and runs out all over everything underneath the airbox/battery box area,making a mess.I have 3 extra igniter units for early X's in my parts stuff and it seems all of those did the same thing.If some way of removing that stuff could be done,it'd be real easy to encase the electronics in silicone or something of that sort.I think acetone or paint stripper removes it well enough,but plan on repainting stuff!I also don't think it's a heating issue either,the potting compound has just deteriorated over time.
I stuck one of my spare 422 advancers in my '80 model and it perked up a bit,seemed to run smoother and a touch more top-end poop to it.I imagine that 79 cams will certainly add a kick in the butt,too,but my 80 runs too nicely to take apart---if it works,don't fix it!
As far as gearing goes,I installed a 36 tooth rear sprocket on the back of my 80 model,stock rear is a 42 tooth and it made a considerable difference in RPM's on the hiway.I'm now turning about 4900 R's @ 80 mph as opposed to almost 6 grand at the same speed with stock gearing.The engine will handle the tall gear without any trouble.
Hope this is of some help,take care & ride safe!
-------Mark Miller#0938

[Ric]

If you put on individual K&N's you should just ditch the air box altogether. This also makes the numerous jet adjustments you'll end up having to make a lot easier since you won't have to rotate the engine to work on the carbs (if you don't want too that is).

I have an 80 with individual K&N's and 6:2 Kerkers. After much trail & error and good advise from a few guys I ended up with 117.5 mains, dynojet stage 3 needles with the clip on the third slot from the top (or was that the fourth), and the pilots turned out 2 turns.

My 80 X pulls like a scalded dog from the very bottom revving quickly to the very top. Starts easy and idles perfect.