Had to be rescued yesterday...

kerocowboy · Post by **kerocowboy** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 3:09 am

Out for a ride with 4 mates yesterday and after one of the stops,the "X" had no power to the ignition switch.Fuses were ok so we pushed and pulled the wiring loom by the steering head and managed to get the dash lights to come on...but after another 20 kms it stopped and wouldn't go again.
Wifey had to come to the rescue with the Nissan ute.
After pulling it to bits today,can't find any problem with the wiring but the switch looks very dodgey when put on the tester.
I'm 90% sure its the switch,but if anyone has had a similar problem and can throw some light on it,please step foward.........
Would like to know if the switch can be repaired or can it be replaced with a new one....?
Also...as the bike is only 30 years old would it still be under warranty...?

cbxtacy · Post by **cbxtacy** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:02 am

Here in San Diego if you break down on a CBX and call the AAA (Automobile Association of America) they send a rescue vehicle manned by Hooters Girls ( http://www.hooters.com/ ) to rescue you unless it's a weekend (the girls are busy). In that case they send Hawaiian Tropic Girls ( https://www.hawaiiantropicmodels.com/index.php ) to your rescue and, yes the repairs are covered in warranty under the standard hard working, good looking, intelligent, and modest Honda CBX owner clause you sign when you get a CBX. You did sign one, didn't you?

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:44 am

Kero, As you well know an intermittent fault is the toughest to find. In electronics the mechanically stressed components are the first place to look. Components around the steering head fall in this category, look at connectors/wires & by all means the main switch...

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:20 pm

Cut two wirees of ample guage (12 is fine), about 3 or 4 inches each. Crimp a male spade connector on each end of each wire. Carry them on your CBX. When the switch fails, which it will do shortly after dark in the middle of nowhere, use these jumper wires to by-pass the switch, right at the end of the harness below the switch. One runs the taillight, the other operates the rest of the bike.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:19 pm

To add to Ricks most excellent advice, new switches are still available from Honda....

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:01 pm

I'm not sure about the genuine Honda switch, but you can buy just the bottom portion with the contacts also. That way you still use your old keys.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:40 am

Rick Pope wrote:I'm not sure about the genuine Honda switch, but you can buy just the bottom portion with the contacts also. That way you still use your old keys.

That makes more sense Rick....

Checked the Bikebandit site to see if the switch was available ( complete) & it was at about $121.00

karl sparks · Post by **karl sparks** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:35 am

Thanks Rick.

Thats a Great tip.

karl sparks · Post by **karl sparks** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:35 am

Thanks Rick.

Thats a Great tip.

EMS · Post by **EMS** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:15 am

The Honda ignition switches are available from several sources. ebay has them all the time and JCWhitney sells one for the GL that fits the CBX also, I believe.

kerocowboy · Post by **kerocowboy** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:24 am

Hey thanks for all the replies.......... :)
The complete genuine switch is still available [ex Honda Japan] for a rediculous price.....

TIM's has the switch part only for $US10... :) So I'll go with that...