Polishing engine parts

[Don]

If I were to polish some things on the engine (crank covers, camshaft end covers, alternator and clutch cover - Possibly even the valve cover) what would I "clearcoat" them with?? Spray laquer?? That appears to be what the factory used on the clutch cover.

Are there any more durable clear acrylics which are rated for the kinds of temperatures these items operate at?

I've used Krylon clear acrylic on aluminum wheels I've polished with great success, but I'm not sure how it would work on the engine cases.

Any experience in this area greatfully accepted ;)

Don

[Guest]

The clear lacquer factory clear coat isn't durable at all, corrossion will eat it away as will stone chips etc- look at all the Jap bikes w/ scuzzy aluminun covers, the lacquer wears off every time, no matter how well you maintane it. I've been told media blasting the covers then clear powder coat is the trick, it looks oem and super durable.

[cbxchris]

CHROME IT!!!

[Fondahonda]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

Eastwood claims their Diamond Clear for bare metal (10200Z, 10189Z) is resistant to fuels and temperatures up to 300F. They've also got a product called Spray Anodize (available in gold, red, blue and green) they say can withstand temps up to 250F. I've not tried either one, but I've been satisfied with their other products.

Take care out there.

[Don]

The clear lacquer factory clear coat isn't durable at all, corrossion will eat it away as will stone chips etc- look at all the Jap bikes w/ scuzzy aluminun covers, the lacquer wears off every time, no matter how well you maintane it.

The clutch case on my '79 looks factory polished (no?) and clearcoated (just from looking at it, with laquer I'd bet) and after 24 years, it's still looking amazingly good, which is what got me to thinking . . . . why don't I take it off and put a REAL polish job on it and re-clearcoat it - If it lasts half as long as the OEM stuff did, I'll be happy.

I was just thinking (hoping, really) that maybe something better than laquer (preferably in a spray can) may have come along since this bike was built.

If nothing else, I suspect that a polish and laquer job will satisfy me just fine.

Don

[Don]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

Eastwood claims their Diamond Clear for bare metal (10200Z, 10189Z) is resistant to fuels and temperatures up to 300F.

Hey, this stuff sounds REALLY promising - I bookmarked this for future use.

Thanks a bunch!

Don

[SS]

I have just completed (2) 17" wheels (for my 82 CBX) powder coated in white, then the lip area powdercoat was removed and polished to a mirror shine, followed by a clear powdercoat over the entire wheel.

Both the powdercoat and polish work were done by professional shops

The lip area didn't retain the mirror shine after the clear powdercoating. but it still looks very good (looks more like a satin finish) and is maint. free.

I'll be using powdercoat (candies, colors & clears) in many of my future projects.

Yes, there are some powdercoats that have a very "chrome like look", but nothing that is a sliver/chrome in color, that is either sprayed, painted, or baked really looks as good as honest to gosh chrome.

As for the eng. parts that are higher heated (500 + degrees), I say go for chrome, or ceramic coating (jethot or whomever)

The remainder of the engine parts & pieces (lower temp areas) can be color powdercoat or anodized.

Powder coat won't hold up to extremes of heat, it's baked on @ 400 degrees, and as I have learned then clear does reduce the lustre of polished parts.

There ain't no shine like chrome, I really like the look of polished aluminum, but without a coating of some kind, I'm just "T00" lazy for all the upkeep.

[Dave Ditner]

Krylon, I think, makes a clear engine enamel that they say is good to 500 F. I've got it on my 81, have had for 2 years and it's held up perfectly. Don't remember for sure, and the can's in Michigan and I'm in Florida. I wanted, and got a return to the original finish. Did the cam cover, crank end covers, cam end covers, carb tops and alternator cover. All by hand and had over 40 hours in the cam cover alone. Final finish was with 00 stainless steel wool. Wouldn't recommend or wouldn't do the hand thing again. Got a bead blaster now.
Even thought of trying Imron clear on the parts, but in conversation with the Imron wizard, he told me that it wouldn't work, nor would most paints since they don't chemically bond to aluminum and with the finish I had I would get very little mechanical bond. Too far into it to back out then so I shot the Krylon. Looked good. But putting the cam cover on, I dropped a 10 mm box wrench on it and surer than Hell, it chipped. Came off like glass.
Touched it up with a Q tip and it looked fine.
No damage in the two years it's been on, and unlike the original stuff bug splat doesn't affect it.
You gotta be careful when you do the carb tops so you don't get any paint on the lower surfaces that go into the carb body. If the cock, the slide won't work worth a damn. What I did was go to my kid's hobby store and get some of the brush on rubber masking they use for painting the lexan car bodies they use on RC cars. A couple of careful coats of that stuff and you're ready to go. Peel it off when the paint's dry. Finished the job with a complete set of stainless steel allen screws, even button heads on the cam covers. Looks good

[Land_Shark]

I've both read and been told that the best high-temp clear-coat out there is Yamaha Top-Clear. It's what I plan on using on my engine once all the covers are polished. Pricey at $50/quart but probably worth it.