Let's talk about other ways to upgrade the stock alternator - "pancake" and hidden options

[RC 166]

Thanks Niels,
I will do that, but need to do some homework first. I have two scenarios:

1. A "pancake" version with a low profile custom housing, rotor shaft with bearings in the housing and a special smart coupling that
use the OEM splined hub but not the spring or driven plate. No axial forces. Of course, external serial Shindengen RR.
I will measure the space in the engine case to see what alien OEM Magneto Flywheel/Stator may fit.

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2. An "OEM" version for the purists. Uses the OEM alternator housing with a new rotor shaft using the OEM bearings but with a magneto rotor instead of the old field rotor. Note, the rotor need to be inside of the stator here instead of the other way around for the pancake version. Same type of special smart coupling that use the OEM splined hub but not the spring or driven plate as for the Pancake version. No axial forces. Of course, external serial Shindengen RR. I have measured some dimensions inside the OEM alternator housing to see what alien OEM Magneto Rotor/Stator may fit.


It took ca 10 min. to split the alternator for this pic.

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Now, a wild idea. What if I use the OEM stator as well, less brushes and a new magneto rotor from Ricks' rotating inside.
Would it be possible to come up with a magneto rotor that works with the OEM stator and delivers 400+W? Of course, the rotor's outer diameter must match the CBX stators inner diameter!

I can design the new rotor shaft to fit whatever rotor bore they may have. The net result of this version would be:
1. Getting rid of an OEM weak link, the brushes.
2. Getting rid of another OEM weak link, the field rotor.
3. Getting rid of the 3:rd OEM weak link, friction disc coupling.

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Look, these things take time to measure, chase down usable parts, design etc...
I think alternative 1 could be made quicker since I can use stock parts and adapt them to fit the CBX.


To be continued....

[NobleHops]

This would be fantastic, Peter, and if it could squeeze out a few more watts, and use a non-shunt R/R, then <chefkiss>. I have tons of stock alternator stuff, if you need anything to cannibalize, sing out.

[daves79x]

FWIW, you have taken apart a Euro version of the CBX alternator. Most internal part dimensions are completely different from the US/Canada verson.

Dave

[RC 166]

Yes Dave, you are right.
First I got it wrong, thought that the Euro one was bigger, have edited that pic now.
Do both versions use exactly the same rotor shaft? What about the flywheel effect? A bigger rotor must be harder on the friction disks?
What are the dimensions for the US version?

Here some pics and dimensions of the Euro version:
-Rotor Outer Diameter: 83.0mm
-Rotor length: 46.5mm
-Stator Inner Diameter: 84.0mm

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And as I browse internet I see that our famous JR has already "been there, done that" in 2016 and the outcome was not fun at all.
Check this. https://cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... highlight=
Don't know if the 1100F's had 1-phase stators and if moving to 3-phase ditto would help any.

What about the "pancake version"? mounted inside the crankcase alternator cavity, will there be enough oil splash to "cool" the stator.
BTW, how can hot engine oil "cool" anything? I guess, as long as it is cooler than a hot stator...

Like I said, there is homework and research to be done, but can't harm to kick around the ideas in the meantime.

[Syscrush]

[RC 166]

Now I have read about a lot of stator failures from all the big 4 manufacturers and also from bikes produced after the commonly stated petiod '04-'08. Has there ever been any real redesign/improvements of these alternators during the last 15 years or do they still fail frequently? What type of regulators are used now, still the old shunt type or serial type?
What about the magnet flywheels, do they still spit magnet inserts?

Recently I came across this very interesting article at the danish Fireblade forum.

https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&source=w ... _MPHFplfne