Carburetor accelerator nozzles

[jetts68]

Hi all. Does anyone know where I can get a set of accelerator spray nozzles for a 1979 cbx1000, keihin vb61a carburetors theses are not just a nozzle but have a ball valve inside to regulate accelerator fuel pump pressure across the 6 carburetors. I believe theses nozzles are part of the higher power output of the 79 bikes. Please see photos of location within the carburetor and the nozzle itself and its interior parts.

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[tevan]

I don’t believe you can replace them. I think you need another carb body. Good luck finding them. I have never seen them for sale. I might have a replacement carb body if you have to go that way. I think you will have to.

[jetts68]

Yes so far no joy with all the cbx specialists I'm just putting it up here hoping to come across them before the long wait. I have a couple of sets of carbs and it appears to be a very common issue with them blocking up.
I've been in contact with a company in Japan who say they can make them. They need a cad drawing of it. I've got a local design engineer drawing it up for me. Being a bespoke one off production with a minimum order of 60 the cost is high and delivery is 3 months. But it will give me a couple of rebuilt complete carb sets I can move on to recoup some of the costs

[JoeInTUS]

They can be replaced. Heat up the carb body and press out with a small clamp to prevent damage. Tap in with a brass punch.

Donor carb body is the only source I know of

[jetts68]

Thanks for the replies.

[CBX-tras]

First, there are no replacement parts, never were.
Second, you will most likely damage the nozzle removing it, either from the one you are working on, or the donor. Then, even IF you did, there would be the issue of pressing it in correctly to squirt into the air stream.
Short of replacing the body with a better one, if it's just one that isn't clear or two, increase the stroke of the pump to feed the other 4 and let it go.

The problem is that rust particulate from the tank can get pushed into the nozzle and eventually build up and can't get out the tiny orifice or the past the check valve by compressed air. And/or, if awakened from long term storage, the steel ball and spring in the check valve have rusted to the point that they can't move open to let the fuel in.

In any case, it's a battle that you probably won't win. However, if you find a method to clear the nozzles without damage, please share.

[JoeInTUS]

I have successfully swapped nozzles. It is not hard. Heat is your friend.

[tevan]

I have successfully swapped nozzles. It is not hard. Heat is your friend.

Can you do a little tutorial on how to get them out? Thanks in advance

[JoeInTUS]

Can you do a little tutorial on how to get them out? Thanks in advance

Yes but it will be awhile. I am on the road until the end of September.

Big picture
Heat the carb body up in the vicinity of the nozzle (300 degrees by IR thermometer worked well).
Tap or press out the nozzle.
Tap in the replacement nozzle paying attention to the orientation of the orifice.

[tevan]

I will give that a try when I need one out. Thanks

[Larry Zimmer]

Just a somewhat side note for you: those jets have nothing to do with engine power output. What they do is somewhat smooth out throttle transition when you 'whack' the throttle open. If you are smooth enough when opening throttle, you won't miss them. Most carb bikes don't use them. At steady speed (any steady speed as in top end) they do not flow.