The International CBX Owners Association

What type of aftermarket shock? Likely a Progressive, but could be other. Any of them should be rebuildable.

Dave

I can’t tell with tire in place. Seems odd that Tim’s sells a Progressive unit but Progressive doesn’t list one on their site. And Ikon shows a listing for one on one page but only fork springs available on another. Those are the two choices?

If you are looking to go with a new shock, I suggest calling Progressive. One of their 465 series should fit.

Finding someone to swap in a new shock is going to be harder than sourcing a new one.

If I were buying a new shock for my Prolink today, It would be a Wilbers from Ted Porter: www.beemershop.com

The shock swap is not hard at all, there are two wrinkles though: There’s a wire that is used to monitor the shock’s air pressure, and warn if its low - just crimp an eyelet onto the wire and put it under a nearby bolt head and it will work normally.

The second issue is simply “while you’re there”. While you’re there you really should just remove the swingarm and linkages, disassemble, clean and relube, It’s highly likely that many of the pivots on the Prolink rising-rate linkage are dried out, frozen, or worse. None of that is hard, just takes some time and needs to be done carefully.

The entire job can be done with the bike on the center stand, but is definitely easier on a lift.

Notably the seals for all the suspension links will likely be dried and cracked. Measure the bushings and inserts (collars). If they are a few .0001" out of spec, no problem. Just so they are not pitted. Clean things with some 400 grit and mineral spirits. DO replace the seals. Partzilla, locally, shows the seals 'in stock'. If you do need any bushings or 'collars', CMSNL sells aftermarket replacements. None of it cheap. But, you likely will need seals.

Problem is I don’t know a thing about suspension link bushings and inserts and I’m not physically able to R&R the shock.

Don't know what to tell you - what is described is all part of owning a Pro-Link. You need to find a guy.

Dave

I put oversized rubbers in my clutch which should quieten things a bit just waiting for a gasket so I can put it all back together, should be riding the Z by the end of the month.


But I've two rides and had my first shake down rides on the GS1150efe since I began rebuilding it a few years back, now a rebuilt top end 70cc extra, new hd clutch and Mikuni carbs, 150ish HP, 50-60 lbs lighter, new digital control system. I haven't really tested it as yet but the engine feels very very strong, it's gonna be fun. For now low speed riding over rough roads to literally see what shakes loose, where I neglected to use Loc-tite, every time out a few less rattles as I replace the bolts that dropped out.

Got in 100 yesterday and 134 today, all in the outer foothills west of Yosemite. Some sections of the less travelled two lanes were hopping (literally) with inch long grasshoppers. Luckily? they’re only as high as midway up the boots. Still, the lower half of everything gets bugged up. And still, again, I got out. This poor rattler didn’t make it across the road.

Larry Zimmer wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 14, 2024 10:50 am

Notably the seals for all the suspension links will likely be dried and cracked. Measure the bushings and inserts (collars). If they are a few .0001" out of spec, no problem. Just so they are not pitted. Clean things with some 400 grit and mineral spirits. DO replace the seals. Partzilla, locally, shows the seals 'in stock'. If you do need any bushings or 'collars', CMSNL sells aftermarket replacements. None of it cheap. But, you likely will need seals.

“Seals” for the suspension links? I managed to clean enough oil? off the shock and the label faces forward. I can read ‘ssive’ so it’s a Progressive unit I guess . I figured it would have worn out bushings top and bottom but with an aftermarket shock what would seals do? Where would they be or are they only for the OEM unit. I did see that no one removed the hoses and catch bottle but when Mike was doing my guages I saw that the air shock bulb warning light was gone. Wouldn’t I need just bushings for the top and bottom?

TIMS has a Progressive 420 shock but you mentioned a 465? Do they really make two models for the Prolink? Difference?

We are talking about all the seals/pins/bushings in the shock linkages. Every pivot point has them.

Dave

I braved 100 degree temps to ride 84 miles round trip to a Honda dealer in a town 42 miles away. I wanted to meet the owner and service manager and show them the Honda (and then) ask if they were up to replacing the shock. Another dealer and a couple shops had already told me no even though it’s pretty much a generic fix, not unlike many other bikes.

Luckily they loved the bike and I’ll ride back in by 0900 Thursday to get the shock replaced. BTW the owner told me he has a NIB 82 fairing in his storage area. If all goes well I’ll be heading to the coast hiway as I plan to ride it to Astoria at the OR/WA border and back. Temps along the way are in the mid 60s/70s everywhere. The only HOT riding will be the 200+ miles between here and the coast.

When he does the shock is he going to disassemble the dog-bones and links to the swingarm to inspect/grease the bushings and the seals? If the seals have never been serviced they are likely dried and cracked. Highly recommended. All mine were and the bike had always sat in a garage. Other leaks or no leaks! Chain oil spray doesn't do it.

…”Other leaks or no leaks! Chain oil spray doesn't do it.”

There are no leaks anywhere. Explain please.