The International CBX Owners Association

I need to buy a new chain and sprockets (Front is an 18 and rear a 42). Am I right that the correct chain for an 80 is the 102 link 530? Also can you order the chain as a continuous loop or do you have to connect it with the link rivet tool? Thanks Ross.

The 530 chain is the correct one for the 1980 CBX. Number of links depends on rear wheel position (what length swingarm you have) and/or sprocket size. I know of people who have used modern 525 chains. Many insist on riveting the chain (endless loop), others, including myself, have used a master link for years without a problem. Proper installation is key.
You can safety-wire the clip on the master link to be sure.

Thanks EMS. Just what I needed. Ross

Ross, this is probably old news to you, but just in case, be sure to orient the closed end of the master link clip so that it is "leading" when the chain is moving.

Ron, Master of the Probably Obvious. :)

Ross:
Most chains worth buying these days only come with a rivet link. I've never had a problem with a clip-type, but the chains I've bought in the last few years (top-of-the-line RK and Tsubaki) only come with the rivet link. I bought the riveting tool and it works great. They are not that expensive. You still need a link press to install the side plate no matter which type link you use.

Dave

If you're installing a chain for the first time, make sure you have your rear axle adjusted to the green zone marking on the swingarm. If you have the axle all the way forward and cut and rivet your chain, you can't get it back off without cutting the rivet link. Don't ask me how I know this....

SanDogDewey wrote:If you're installing a chain for the first time, make sure you have your rear axle adjusted to the green zone marking on the swingarm. If you have the axle all the way forward and cut and rivet your chain, you can't get it back off without cutting the rivet link. Don't ask me how I know this....

Let me 'guess' what happened next Patrick. Something like this? Note the broken stub of my too-small chain rivet tool.
Likewise, don't ask me how I know this....

NilsMenten wrote:

SanDogDewey wrote:If you're installing a chain for the first time, make sure you have your rear axle adjusted to the green zone marking on the swingarm. If you have the axle all the way forward and cut and rivet your chain, you can't get it back off without cutting the rivet link. Don't ask me how I know this....

Let me 'guess' what happened next Patrick. Something like this? Note the broken stub of my too-small chain rivet tool.

Likewise, don't ask me how I know this....

Let's just say my chain is in place and properly adjusted...and will remain that way until it needs to come off.

I also broke my rivet tool during the installation, but you can order replacement pins.

daves79x wrote:Ross:
Most chains worth buying these days only come with a rivet link. I've never had a problem with a clip-type, but the chains I've bought in the last few years (top-of-the-line RK and Tsubaki) only come with the rivet link. I bought the riveting tool and it works great. They are not that expensive. You still need a link press to install the side plate no matter which type link you use.

Dave

I usually buy RK, D.I.D or Iris O- or X-ring "Chain Kits" (= 2 sprockets plus chain) in Germany as I seem to get a better price for them there and they always come either or. I think they limit the sale to rivet link chains in the U.S. because of fear of litigation.

"I think they limit the sale to rivet link chains in the U.S. because of fear of litigation."

Or they want to sell rivet tools. (Which tend to be way overpriced considering what you actually get.) :)

I received my chain and sprockets and purchased the RK chain breaker and press rivit tool. I have 2 questions:

First, When I used the chain breaker the cutting pin broke as I screwed it in. RK is sending me a new cutting pin and suggests I grind off the top of the chain link pin on one side of the side plates before using their tool. Does this make sense?

Second, my new front sprocket has a smaller raised area around the spline. Is this OK or should my new sprocket look just like the one currently on the bike?
Thanks Ross.

Ross, i always use a Dremel with a grinding stone attachment and take the top off of the pin before using the breaker.
As for the sprocket, do both sides of the new one have a raised lip? My memory stinks but i thought the stock sprocket had a flush side and a raised lip side.

steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:My memory stinks but i thought the stock sprocket had a flush side and a raised lip side.

Thats correct !

Bob

Thanks for confirming the grinding of the pin.

Here's the other side of the sprocket which is indeed flush. Does it make a difference that the raised lip is smaller on my new sprocket compared with the old one?

ajs350 wrote:I received my chain and sprockets and purchased the RK chain breaker and press rivit tool. I have 2 questions:

First, When I used the chain breaker the cutting pin broke as I screwed it in. RK is sending me a new cutting pin and suggests I grind off the top of the chain link pin on one side of the side plates before using their tool. Does this make sense?

Second, my new front sprocket has a smaller raised area around the spline. Is this OK or should my new sprocket look just like the one currently on the bike?
Thanks Ross.

Is that a 620 spocket for your '80?