The International CBX Owners Association

Took the seat, tank and fairing off to get at all the electrical wires for a bit of cleaning.
The LH mirror was loose, so when I removed the rubber, the spring, shaped washer and the spring retainer all fell out.
Also took off the RH mirror and disassembled it, although it was retained tightly.
Thought I read on the forum that someone had drilled open and tapped the bottom hole to get a screw and washers to retain the spring with correct pressure.
Now I can't find that post and searching turned up nothing.
Does anyone have a how to on this? Don't need to reinvent the wheel here so searching for info.

Is this the thread you were looking for?
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11634&p=95137&hilit ... ror#p95137

That's the one, thank you.

So, I did the mirror fix today on both mirrors, here are some photos and description of the process.
Started with disassembling the nut and two washers I put the nut and two washers back on the post for safekeeping. After clamping the piece in the vise, I used 3 different drill sizes, going up slightly larger diameter until I got to the tap drill size for an M6 x 1.0 bolt.
Tap drill size is 5 mm, which equates to 0.197", I have a numbered drill set, which I had from my toolmaking days.
The aluminum can gall up pretty quickly, so be sure to drill down a bit, pull drill out, blow the hole out with compressed air, drill a bit more, and repeat. I didn't go any deeper than the existing hole. I used a self centering tap first and then chased with a flat bottomed tap to get the threads all the way down.
Be sure when tapping to go down only a few turns at a time, then pull tap out, blow out the hole of all the Aluminum chips you just made, blow all the chips off the tap and repeat. I used WD40 as coolant to lubricate as I worked the tap down.
I put a black mark on the tap so I knew when I was near the bottom of the hole. It is very easy to go too far especially with the soft aluminum, and the last thing you want is to break the tap.
I put the M6 bolt in after tapping the hole, to see if how far down the threads go. Since it didn't quite sit flush to the post, I filed off the bolt with a coarse file until it did. I removed maybe 1/8". Then the bolt head bottomed on the post. I happened to have some stainless steel washers, which fit perfectly into the hole and the center hole was large enough to clear the post. I couldn't believe it, no mods required to the washers.
I used 4 washers, which measured about 4 mm which is the distance from the top of the post to the retaining ring slot.
Then on top of that I used a smaller washer (with a hole slightly larger than the 6mm thread diameter) and lock washer just to prevent it from backing out. Guess you could use thread locker instead. Then start screwing the bolt down. Make sure the washers get pushed down over the post, you may need to manipulate them a bit.
Then it should like like this. Bottom out the bolt, the small washer that you added will stop on top of the post and you will have the correct depth.
You can see in the pic that there is just enough clearance for the washers to go into the hole opening. Mount the bracket to the fairing. Before you install the mirror and post, make sure the rubber cover is on. Peel the rubber back and get the two small washers and the lock nut on and tighten the lock nut. cont. on next post.

Forgot the pic of the M6 taps I used, first the self centering tap then the bottoming tap. Go slowly when tapping, and clean aluminum chips out many times during the process. Notice the black mark on the centering tap, that is the depth to which the hole was drilled in the post. Just so I knew when to stop with the tap. Also make sure to add some grease to the shaped washer on both sides before assembly, looks like I added a bit much here, so I did remove some excess.
I also added some to both ends of the spring, just to keep some lubrication in there, as well as between the washers. After tightening the mirror bolt, I used a heat gun to warm up the rubber to get it good and pliable, then I used a wooden chopstick to get the rubber over the metal frame at the fairing side and plastic frame on the mirror side. It went on very easy. Both mirrors in view. Both mirrors now are able to swing out of the way and and are height adjustable for the rider.
Job done.

Outstanding contribution, thank you very much for the care you obviously took to write this up and photograph it.

Nicely done. Your tutorial will be a big help for the next person.