Removing prolink front wheel

[steveecob]

Need advice on best way to remove front wheel as I want to respray front fork legs matt black. Can I support bike with a trolley jack?

[NobleHops]

Greetings Steve,

For sure, I use a scissor jack and a block of wood under the sump with the bike on the centerstand and that works fine. Just go slowly and don't raise it any more than you need to. If you have a lift and can strap it for safety, that's a good idea too.

[steveecob]

Many thanks Nils ,I thought that would work OK but good to have your opinion. Not an easy bike to pick up.!!!!. Steve S.A.

[Larry Zimmer]

Sorry to be a few days late, Steve. Here's how I jack my front end for work. By using the machining bosses on the front of the engine there is no load on the oil pan/gasket. Also, it puts the jacking load a little farther to the front so that the bike isn't quite as 'tipsy' (fore/aft). The wood block is a piece of 2x2 cut to 7 inches. Fits perfectly between the pipes. Can use any type jack under it. [Notice the rear wheel is still off the ground. This set-up was just for photos. I had no load on it. However, I've used it often for front wheel removal, fork work, etc. If you have a lift, it is extra insurance to use a couple lateral tie-downs after lifting. Just be sure you pull BEHIND the jack!]

[steveecob]

Thanks Larry, just read your reply. I think I was pretty close to your advice and everything went well. The fork legs look great. Carefully re-fitted the wheel and rode the bike
to a national Superbike GP meeting in Durban yesterday and now the left fork is leaking quite a bit.Did I do something wrong? I was so careful doing the work. If the seal suffered
some damage is it a job I can tackle with no special tools? Any advice would be great.

[Larry Zimmer]

Steve,

Unfortunately, you will likely have to remove and disassemble the fork tube. I'd say that the leak is probably a scratch of some kind on the tube OR and upside down seal. (Don't ask how I know about the upside down thing!) A third thing could be a cocked seal in its bore.
To minimize/prevent cocking what I do is install the seal so the top is just above the snap ring groove. Then, put the washer and snap ring into place and drive the whole thing in until the snap ring seats. Regarding seal orientation, note that the seal has three seal lips. Two of them are closer together. These two close together lips go towards the bottom. The 'single' lip goes near the snap ring.
Beyond this, I'd say you are into something unique to your particular tube. Is it a rework? Could it have been reground and be slightly undersize? Etc. This and other possibilities are remote. Hope this helps.

[steveecob]

Thanks Larry, maybe its time to replace both seals and the dust seal is a sloppy fit on the tube as well which wont help dirt exclusion. I have done seals on my ;69 bonny
which went quite easily, but not on a Honda. Could you run me through it please. Do I stick strictly to the manual or is there a quicker way ? Do I have to remove fairing and bars?
Any special tools? Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve. S.A.

[asacuta]

On the topic of seals, I've found Seal Doctor works well at stopping front-fork leaks. It works on seals gummed by bug guts; obviously, it won't fix damaged seals.

[Larry Zimmer]

Hi, Steve,
The good news --- do not need to remove the fairing. It is possible to get at the lower clamp bolts up under the fairing. Essentially, overall, go by the book. First, do drain all the oil you can and loosen the plug on the top that holds the spring in. Much easier to loosen that plug before loosening the triple-clamp bolts. Then remove the tubes. (I do one at a time. That way, I don't need to figure out what to do with the brake master cylinder when removing the right side tube. After the instrument pod has been removed, the right side handle bar with hose can be 'stretched' to put it onto the left side tube. Of course, the handle bar on the left has to be removed and hung off the side. Do be careful not to 'spill' any brake fluid. Best to cover things with some rags, first.)
Most significant exception from the book is separating the two fork tubes. After you have removed the snap ring (a good snap ring pliers help here!), and the allen-head bolt from the bottom, use the upper tube like a slide-hammer to pull it from the lower tube. [Note: removing the allenbolt is easiest done using a hex driven by an impact gun if you have one. Otherwise clamp the upper tube in a vise with some kind of soft jaws.] It shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 sharp raps. You don't have to remove the seals to do this. They will come out with the tube when they separate. Clean everything, including the gunk from the bottom inside the lower tube. Inspect the upper tube for nicks, scratches, etc. Most nicks and scratches can be polished with a wet-or-dry paper. Depending upon the 'damage' start with a 220 or 320 grit and work your way to a 600 or higher. Use some trans oil for lube. (Could also try a buffing wheel with comparable grit compound.) Whichever method you use, be certain to go 'around' the tube; not up-and-down. Check the fork tube bushings for wear as described in the manual.
Re-assembly is is mostly by-the-book. Note my post, above, regarding installing the seal. Be certain to oil the seal outside surface. DO note the orientation of the seal. You don't want to do this again! When you disassemble, note the arrangement of the pieces inside the fork tube. Sometimes, it's a little 'tricky' getting the allen bolt to torque into the damper rod. I use a little grease to hold that 'cup' piece onto the damper rod when assembling. Easiest to install the spring and fill with oil after the tube is in the bike.

Hope this helps. You can, also, find some other good stuff in the forum with some searching. But, always feel free to ask. The other guys are glad to help, too.

[Larry Zimmer]

And, definitely, the Seal Doctor is worth a first try if there is no apparent tube damage. Certainly can save a lot of 'grief' if it does the job! If not, not much lost.

[steveecob]

Thanks Larry for responding to my problem. I will copy for future ref. I am trying the seal cleaner method first as you suggest so I am busy trying to trace a seal doctor or seal mate here in S.A. Trail biking is big here so there must be a supplier somewhere importing them. Otherwise I will fashion one out of a similar material[ seen a cutting sheet in the kitchen which might work nicely] Will keep you posted.Thanks again Steve.

[NobleHops]

Thanks Larry for responding to my problem. I will copy for future ref. I am trying the seal cleaner method first as you suggest so I am busy trying to trace a seal doctor or seal mate here in S.A. Trail biking is big here so there must be a supplier somewhere importing them. Otherwise I will fashion one out of a similar material[ seen a cutting sheet in the kitchen which might work nicely] Will keep you posted.Thanks again Steve.

SealMate is very fragile. If you find out where this other tool is sold, please post it.

N.

[Rick Pope]

I've heard that a piece of 35m film from a camera makes a good seal cleaner. Finding a scrap of film may prove difficult.

[asacuta]

I've used one of those throw-away cards that look like a credit card but are actually thin plastic or plastic-coated paper. A little trimming with scissors to create a hook like Seal Doctor or Seal Mate, and it'll work once. After doing that a few times, I broke down and bought a Seal Doctor. It's probably not going to help a new seal that's leaking. Removing bug guts and other crud from an older seal is really what it's meant to do.

[steveecob]

Thanks guys for all your advice. Made a seal mate type tool and it seems to have done the trick. I have lost some oil from the fork leg so I will drain and replace the oil on
both sides. Do I lift the front wheel to remove the top fork nuts? Would this take some tension off the spring? Is it easy to screw nut back on? I read in one of the threads the oil level should be 6^inches from the top of the tube, is this correct? Do I flush the legs before re-filling? Regards Steve.