Paging Rotella T guru's

[Lash]

I am considering using this oil but wonder if it would be of any value to add ZDDP to it. Anyone have experience with this?

[EMS]

Rotella is an oil for Diesel engines. I have heard of some guys swearing by it for use in their CBX, I don't know. As far as ZDDP is concerned, you are probably O.K. without adding any:

15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional

zinc = 1454 ppm
phos = 1062 ppm
ZDDP = 1200 ppm

[Lash]

Ya, I'm kind of on the fence with using it but nice to know I shouldn't have to add anything. I should have all winter to think about it, doesn't look like very good riding weather around here, maybe snow by the weekend.

[EMS]

You should change the oil BEFORE you store the bike for the winter, not afterwards, in the spring...

[Lash]

Already did that and used Motul but I am thinking of next year and the next change.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Have been running Rotella T6 5W-40 in my '81 for 25,000 miles.
Have been running Rotella T 15W-40 in my '79 for 10,000kms.

I have experienced no new oil leaks, clutch slipping or starter clutch problems.

[Z Grand]

The first (and only) time I put Rotella T6 in my '79, the clutch started slipping badly. Replaced the clutch and have used Honda G4 10W-40 ever since.

[Ironangel John]

Love the T-6 5W-40, my bike had used Mobil 1 5w-50 since back in the 80's, it's no longer made. Original owner used it, so I stuck with it. Now after owning an RC 51, learned of using T-6 on the RC 51 forums, loved the way the engine ran switched to T-6 in the CBX , it loves it too. My powerstroke runs like a top. Also add a product add Archoil 9100, it transformed my diesel cold starts, it's a friction reducer. My bike has never run better. I like it, works for me. My '13 Boss 302, Amsoil signature 5w-50 only, $100 oil changes, but it's a $13k engine, lol

[Larry Zimmer]

I'll mention it again: Rotella T4 is qualified JASO MA and MA2. T6 IS NOT!! Go from there.

[EMS]

Do not use a friction reducer in a motorcycle "unit' motor, i.e.: the motor, clutch and transmission using the same oil. Friction reducers were introduced to "reduce friction" in engines, thus improving fuel mileage. They will cause problems with components that rely on friction to function.

[Larry Zimmer]

Do not use a friction reducer in a motorcycle "unit' motor, i.e.: the motor, clutch and transmission using the same oil. Friction reducers were introduced to "reduce friction" in engines, thus improving fuel mileage. They will cause problems with components that rely on friction to function.

That would be clutch and starter. Some folks have reported starter problems when using synthetics. Others say it's no problem. My thought there would be to consider where you will be when riding. A starter that won't grab 50 miles from nowhere alone won't be much fun unless you can push start a 600+ pounds bike by yourself. Best bet is to stay with something that is JASO MA or MA2 approved.

[spencer]

I have used Mobil 1 oils since the 70's in everything I own, including my CBX. That is, until a couple of years ago when my starter started slipping. It was sudden, and slipped almost every time. I changed to Rotella and it has never slipped again.

[daves79x]

Just finished re-commissioning the Katrina bike. Don changed to full synthetic a couple of years before he stopped riding and reported the starter clutch started slipping and got progressively worse until it would be very hard to start. I dropped the synthetic, dropped the sump cover, changed filter and sprayed half a can of brake cleaner into the starter hole (to help wash the clutch rollers of synthetic oil). Put Honda GN4 (non-synthetic) oil in and the first couple of starts the clutch slipped once or twice, but has not slipped again even one time.

Again, some CBX's starter clutches do not tolerate synthetic oil at all. That said, I've used synthetic in my '79 for 30 years and at nearly 50,000 miles have never had the starter clutch slip. I don't know why some do and some don't, but that's the way it is.

Dave

[Gearheadgregg]

Been using Rottella in all 3 of my Cummins 3 gallons at a time for years 13 bucks at Wallyworld , GN4 20-50 in the CBX and Valvoline 20-50 MC oil in the GL1500.... had issues with Mobile 1 Red cap and a Dyno pull with 5th holding...has Barrnet racing clutch... better with the GN4 now

[AshishNJ]

I changed to t4 100 miles ago. Clutch makes less rattles somehow after bike has warmed up. engine idles smooth and less clank and clinks . No slipping so far