The International CBX Owners Association

I can copy the article from the magazine and fax it. It was in two consecutive issues. Send me a message if you want it.

EMS wrote:Don't want to start the oil thread either, Dave. But want to say: Automotive Mobil 1: Bad choice! Anything that shows the "high efficiency" stamp on the can, for that matter, is a bad choice.

I have a couple of cases of the "old" 15-50 yet,prior to the reformulation, have used it since it became available and have never had any ill effects, except for the fact that it takes longer for the alternator clutch to engage. It takes about a mile or so for it to start putting out a charge. And that doesn't bother me a bit. I believe that's due to the added lubricating quality that it possesses, and that that quality ought to be good everywhere else in the motor. (OH SHIT, I think I did it anyway )

I subscribe to MCN and will try to get a thread, as far as their testing went generally speaking the differences in oils is very overstated as far as auto vs m-cycle, price seems to be the big difference there. Landshark,, I read somewhere and I don't remember where but the oil leaks from synthetics was due to the oil companies formulations and not seal materials. The standard petro based oils had a seal conditioner in them that kept the seals soft and made them swell slightly, the synthetics now have the same stuff for about the last 15 or so years. Myself,, I like the synthetic stuff, a couple of motors that I've had apart after exclusive use of the synthetics showed absolutely zero wear and were spotlessly clean and many automotive dyno tests have typically seen 10-20 extra hp's by simply switching to synthetics and I like hp's. The way I see it is whatever floats your boat and gives you good performance.

Steve P. #5220

As much as I love and promote synthetic oil (Mobil-1)having been using it since 1975 in all my vehicles and lawnmowers,I sincerely doubt that any oil by itself will give anyone a 10 to 20 hp increase.Maybe a 1 or 2 hp increase but definately not 10to 20.

You tell em RIPPER. 10-20 hp indeed! I'd love to see the dyno sheet (and) the sworn affidavit from the (oil changer).

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Hey Guy's,

Looks like we have an oil thread going, Anyway I tried to get the thread setup to the MC News oil articles but they are currently telling me that I don't subscribe although they've been taking my $$$$ for the subscription to run for the next 2 1/2 years (Bummer) Anyway the last series of articles were in the Jan. & Feb. of 03 issues, if I can get a thread setup I'll post it. As far as the HP increases Car Craft, Hot Rod and Mopar Muscle have all ran chassis dyno tests that have typically shown a 10-20 hp increase at the rear wheels on various AUTOMOTIVE setups, I also have an acqaintance that happens to be a NHRA record holder by the name of Vic Kroll who runs a CLeveland Ford who was a hard sell on the HP increase's but who has verified the same results. Also if you have ever heard of a guy named Smokey Yunick and feel like reading his book it'll tell you the same things and a lot more, all of it being verified by testing not opinions. Keep in mind that this is all automotive so the results should reflect that. Just my .02 worth, like I said before whatever make YOU sleep better at night is what you should use.

Steve P. #5220

Sure, if you are a hot-rodder and have a 440 cuin V-8 engine pumping out 600 horses, then a friction reducer may result in an increase of 10-20hp ( 2-3%). Bear in mind, that this may be less than the tolerance of your measuring equipment. Also, it is much like taxes: There is no trick that saves you more taxes than you would have to pay. By the same token,you can't gain more horsepower than you would lose to friction. What motorcycle engine requires 10-20hp to turn over at no compression (= overcome friction) ? The laws of Physics still apply. This posting should have gone to the "Cracker Barrel" section

EMS,

You are right on the percentages for the testing I've seen, 2-5% is about right. I believe that the last Car craft article was a 400hp small block that showed a 12hp gain if memory serves me correct. I work in a test lab and use this type of instrumentation all the time, we have 8 dyno's (eddy current) as well, anyway in the last 10 years if you have a instrument, gage or gauge that is worse than .5-1% of full scale accuracy you have a problem, that is pretty much the standards these days. If you can repeat the testing accurately that's when you know you have a winner. So on one of our well tuned 100hp X's a change to synthetics could give you a 2-5 hp bump for the price of an oil change, not bad. But like you said it depends on the friction and is an individual case by case. But my point was and is less wear, less friction should = less heat and maybe some free hp's. All we need now is some women and free beer.

Steve P. #5220

Steve:

Point well taken :)

I am very good friends with a engine builder in nascar. Don`t believe eveyrthing you read. I asked him the other day about all this. His answer was that straight 30w is what almost all nascar engines run....and dino. He said that synthetics do not help enough to use it. More gas on the fire! :twisted:

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Mobil 1 MX4t 10w-40 is not to be confused with Mobil 1 synthetic, MX4T is motorcycle specific for wet clutch and transmission shared engines and uses special additives. I use it and am glad every time that hot 6 cylinder motor gets caught in any traffic jam or toll-booth tie-up, synthetics have a much higher temperature protection.

I have an 80 CBX with 42000 on her and have been using Honda pro- oil

20-50 with great success Dan Gimelli #5478

Hey, What about blends? Golden Spectro 4 anyone?