The International CBX Owners Association

Good to know. It would be interesting to measure any difference in power transferred to the rear wheel with the stiffer springs, perhaps none.

As I don't ride in traffic the stiffer clutch shouldn't bother me too much.

The question is then, why do they make them stiffer than the originals - I'm guessing it could be a marketing ploy so that people think stiffer is better and therefore they buy them. Of course one would hope that all the new springs are exactly the same in terms of tension, bounce and length, are the originals like that or not? We could measure the length but we don't have an easy way to measure how effective these are. Ok, maybe I am over thinking this again!

Any tips about aligning the ball end of the rod coming from the centre of the clutch basket with the socket on the clutch lifter lever which is attached to the inside of the clutch cover? One option I am considering is using dental floss to hold the rod up in the desired position whilst installing the clutch cover. The drawing out the floss once they are aligned - hopefully.

Or, should I remove the large slotted access screw at the cantre of the clutch cover and use a very small magnet on a telescopic arm to align the two? And to check the rod is in the right place.

I could not find any information about re-installation of this. Any tips are always welcome. Thanks

I guess the question could be, does the rod need to be in the exact centre in order to install the clutch cover...?

scottish CBX wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 30, 2023 10:08 am

I guess the question could be, does the rod need to be in the exact centre in order to install the clutch cover...?

You really are over thinking this

Just push the clutch cover on, and the "cup" on the clutch cover will locate with the pin.

Can I ask another question - the Primary drive gear needs to align with the gear at the back of the clutch basket but there is another gear directly behind the primary drive gear, should that be aligned with the primary drive gear? And therefore, should the clutch basket gear also align with that at the same time? Thanks

scottish CBX wrote: ↑

Wed May 03, 2023 2:50 am

Can I ask another question - the Primary drive gear needs to align with the gear at the back of the clutch basket but there is another gear directly behind the primary drive gear, should that be aligned with the primary drive gear? And therefore, should the clutch basket gear also align with that at the same time? Thanks

You should maybe buy a copy of my CBX Restoration Guide - it covers this sort of thing.

If you do want a copy, email me at cbxrestorationguide@btinternet.com

Perfect thanks, that's exactly what I needed. Sorry to trouble you.

The shop manual covers this also. If you do not get the clutch gear aligned with the 'second' primary shaft gear and try to tighten the hub nut, you will break something.

Dave

Well I was thinking that the position of the hub nut shiuld give away the fact that the two gears are meshed with the clutch basket gear. My centre hub nut is pretty much flush with the end of the shaft, see photo. All good then??

And, the clutch cover is a little tricky to install - the oil cooler hose gets in the way and so it was tucked to one side (after being disconnected again) but it needs to be behind the clutch lever on the cover because you can't get it in behind with the clutch cover on, trust me I know.

It's all a bit tight down that side and then of course you have to make sure the correct length of bolts go in the correct locations. My WSM is a poor photocopy which is not that critical for the text but the photos are not so good.

Www.cbxclub.com/manuals has high-quality PDF manuals, text-searchable.

Many thanks.

You did put the two shouldered bolts for the star clutch center in the correct hole location? You will split out the towers if you try to put one in another threaded hole. Yes, your oil line fiasco is well-known and usually learned the hard way.

Dave

Yes, the two bolts are obviously longer and I marked the location of those when I removed them - you can of course see where they go by looking at the towers because the 4 set screws go into the towers that are fully threaded whereas the bots go into the towers that have no thread for the first 10mm. I'm guessing Honda did it that way to aid assembly at the factory i.e. so that the springs can be compressed slightly to allow the 4 set screws to be installed there after. Once I've balanced the carbs I'll take it out and check my handy work.